Hey Everyone! For the longest time I have wanted to replace our small dining room table for the longest time. I found the idea of what I wanted to build off of Shanty-2-Chic & Ana-White, the 4x4 Truss Beam Farmhouse Table. However, the plan to build it kept getting put off by other things needed to be done. In the beginning of December, I put my foot down and decided that I HAD to have the table ready for Christmas Dinner. So, I quickly got to selling my old table on Kijiji which amazingly from what I sold it for essentially covered the cost of the new table.
Looking at the plans that Ana-White provided, I realized I would have to scale my own table down over a foot in order for it to work in my space. I spent a while deciding on the exact size, as I did not want it to be too small and look awkward. I ended up at the deciding factor of 72" (6 feet) in length would not be overly large in my space, and it would still look great.
The hardest part in this whole project was finding the 4" x 4"x 8's that were untreated. In Canada, it seems that our Big Box Stores like Home Depot or Lowes only carry the pressure treated ones. Quite a while was spent calling around lumber yards in the area but I managed to find some. It cost me a bit more then buying the treated ones would have, however untreated is the best way to go for any indoor projects.
Make sure you read through the instructions and look over the plans fully before you start your project. Check out the “Before You Start” page for more on tool information, tips & tricks. Always stay safe and wear all safety protection. It is always best to make your cuts as you go and as they say, measure twice and cut once.
If you have any questions just ask away!
5 - 4" x 4" x 8'
2 - 2" x 4" x 8'
3 - 2" x 10" x 12'
2 1/2" Course Pocket Screws
6 - 2 1/2" Wood Screws
4 - 3" Wood Screws
10 - 4" Wood Screws
Stain - I chose Minwax Dark Walnut
Polyurethane - Minwax Semi Gloss Finish on this one
Wood Glue - I prefer Gorilla Glue
2 - 4" x 4" @ 35"
4 - 4" x 4" @ 25 3/8" - Each end is cut 10º off Square LONG POINT to SHORT POINT Making the ends Parallel
2 - 4" x 4" @ 28 1/4" - Each end is cut 10º off Square, LONG POINT to LONG POINT making ends NOT parallel
2 - 4" x 4" @ 24 1/8" - Each end is cut 50" off Square, LONG POINT to SHORT POINT Making the ends Parallel
2 - 4" x 4" @ 50"
2 - 2" x 4" @ 50"
4 - 2" x 10" @ 53 1/2"
2 - 2" x 10" x 37" Approximately. Cut these boards after you have joined together the 4 - 2" x 10" @ 53 1/2" to ensure you have the exact measurement
Shop Towels - For Staining
Kreg Jig - HD Model
Work Gloves & Rubber Gloves to Stain
Bristle Paint Brush for the Polyurethane
For more great step-by-step photos visit Shanty-2-Chic to see what Whitney added for the original table or to see the plans for the Full Sized Version of this table.
First, we are going to work on the 2 legs with the 4" x 4" boards we have pre-cut.
Lay them out to see how they are going to be assembled and to see where the pocket holes must go. Do each piece one by one to ensure you do the in the correct spots.
To work with the Kreg Jig HD and these large boards I used 2 clamps to ensure that the Jig, nor the board moved as I was drilling out the pocket holes. See the photos below.
Here is what the pocket holes will look like. They are larger then the pocket holes you would get from the Regular Kreg Jig.
Now we are going to use the 2 1/2" Pocket screws to attach these boards together.
NOTE: Don't forget to use the Wood Glue in between all joints all though out the project.
You're going to start with attaching the 2 boards @ 25 3/8" to the 35" boards, then add the board @28 1/4". This will make the A Frame look.
Now that you have the 2 Legs assembled, you need to attach them together. Again, pull out the Kreg Jig & your drill and make the pocket holes into the 2 4" x 4" @ 50" boards.
Note: For the next bit, it is easiest to have the table upside down when screwing in the boards.
Grab those 2 - 4" x 4" @ 22 1/2" boards @ the 50º angles. We are going to screw these in with the 3" & 4" wood screws we bought. An amazing tip that I learned from Shanty-2-Chic for this part was to use Gorilla Tape as a way of essentially clamping the boards into place, and like they said it works like a charm.
With the Gorilla Tape holding those boards in place, use the 3" Wood screws to screw in at the 45" Angle into the top board, then use the 4" Wood Screws to attach from the bottom 4" x 4" board.
Keeping the table upside down, attach the 2"x 4" aprons with 2 1/2" Pocket screws.
Here is what it will look like when the legs are done
Gather the 4 - 2" x 10" x 53" Boards and mark off where are you going to place the pocket holes. See the photo below for general idea.
My boards wanted to be a bit tricky, as they were not perfectly straight. Its hard to get the perfect when buying at such a long length. To get them to be flush I had to add a few more pocket holes. I had the boards clamped in to place and worked from one end to the other ensuring that the boards were flush as I went, adjusting the placement of clamps when needed.
Now its time to measure and cut your end pieces then attach them with the 2 1/2" Pocket Screws.
The Finishing Touches
Make sure you fill the Holes and gaps with Stain-able Wood Filler. For the best stain look, make sure you sand the table in steps. I started with 80Grit, moved to 120Grit then 320 Grit for the finish before I stained & applied the 2 coats of Polyurethane
Due to the weight and size, I didn't attach the top to the base until it was in place in my dining room.
Use the 4" Wood Screws to attach from the table legs, using about 3 per end. Then use the 2 1/2" wood Screws to attach through the 2" x 4"aprons