Rustic X Coffee Table

Rustic X Coffee Table

Hey All,

My sister-in-law just moved into a new place and decided in order to make the place more to her style, she's having me build some of her furniture. The first piece she decided on was a coffee table. However, down the road she'll be having other pieces built in the same look, i.e. bookcase, console table, etc.

After searching on Pinterest for ideas she decided on one in particular she loved. The Rustic X Coffee Table found on Ana White. Its actually part of the line I was looking at eventually building for myself, so I definitely enjoyed doing this build.

I did make a few small changes. On Ana White's plans it called for a 1" x 12" x 8' board to be used for the bottom shelf. In Canada, when you do manage to find that size, its pretty expensive. I ended up using 1" x 6" x 8' boards instead, which were a fraction of the cost. However, doing it this way had me adjust the width of the base of the table slightly, but not a big deal in the long run.


Make sure you read through the instructions and look over the plans fully before you start your project. Check out the “Before You Start” page for more on tool information, tips & tricks. Always stay safe and wear all safety protection. It is always best to make your cuts as you go and as they say, measure twice and cut once.

If you have any questions just ask away!


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Shopping List

2 – 2" x 4" x 8'

4 – 2"x 2" x 8'

2 – 1" x 6" x 8'

5 – 2" x 6" x 8'

1 1/4" Pocket Screws

2 1/2" Pocket Screws

8 - Flat Brackets OR 4 - Corners with Screws

Spray Paint - Black 



Cut List

4 – 2" x 4" @ 16 ½” (legs)

4 – 2" x 2" @ 41” (side trim)

4 – 2" x 4" @ 21” (end trim)

4 – 1" x 6" @ 41” (bottom shelf)

2 – 2" x 2" @ 22 ½” (both ends cut at 60 degrees off square, long point to short point, ends are parallel)

4 – 2" x 2" @ 11 ¼” (long point to short point, one end cut at 60 degrees off square, other end cut at 30 degrees off square, ends are not parallel but are cut in same direction)

5 – 2" x 6" @ 52” (tabletop boards)

Tools Needed


Mitre Saw






Kreg Jig


Tape Measure






Safety Glasses


Ear Protection


Paint Brush


Shop Towels




First, we are going to build the two sides to this table using the 2" x 4" x 16.5" and the 2" x 2" x 41" boards. 

A pocket hole must be drilled in each of of the 2" x 2" x 41" boards, then use 2 1/2" pocket screws to attach them. The bottom 2" x 2" will be 2 1/4" up from the floor

From there we have to attach the end trim/supports to connect these sides together using the 2" x 4" x 21" boards. 

Both of these boards will have 2 pocket holes on each end. Again, use 2 1/2" pocket screws to attach.


For me, the bottom shelf of this table consists of 4 - 1” x 6” boards cut to 41”. Use your Kreg Jig to Drill ¾” pocket holes to attach them together with 1 ¼” pocket screws.

You will also need to drill pocket holes around the perimeter of the shelf. This is how the shelf is attached to the frame.



Constructing the X is where it can get a bit more complicated. Since I used 1” x 6” opposed to the 1” x 12” boards from Ana White’s Plans, the width of my table base changed. Therefore changing the angles and lengths of the 2” x 2” boards used to make the X.

I started with the Long piece of the X. Since the width decreased I knew that the angle was going to slightly as well. Instead of cutting the one end at 60 Degrees, I cut it to 58.5 Degrees. From there I used the actually piece and the table frame to measure out the length that piece was going to be. I also cut that end at 58.5 degrees.

I did the same thing for the small components of the X. I cut the one end to 58.5 and laid it out. The other end, butting up against the long piece was cut down to just short of 30 Degrees. Attach these boards using 2 ½” screws.

 NOTE: Before attach the X to the table base, I gave the bottom shelf and each individual component of the X a very good sand. This made it easier, as it would be very hard to sand when the X is attached.



Now comes the time to put the top together using the 5 – 2” x 8” @ 52” boards.

 Drill 1 ½” pocket holes in the boards and attach them using 2 ½” pocket screws & Wood Glue.

 Before I attached the top to the base, I gave a 4” width perimeter of the bottom side of the top a good sand. Again, it was easier to do this now than when the top is attached to the frame. Use 2 ½” Wood Screws to attach the top by going from the underside through the 2” x 2” and 2” x 4” trims/supports.


Now that the table is constructed it comes down to finishing it. Use your Stainable wood filler to fill any pocket holes. I also used it to fill in the gaps between the boards for my top so there is nowhere to guck to collect.

Once the wood filler has dried, its time to give it a really good sand, first with 120 Grit and then 220 also for the top.

Vacuum and wipe the table down to remove any dust before you stain & seal with polyurethane. I always do 2 coats of the polyurethane, especially on table tops as it gives that extra protection.


Now, once the Polyurethane has fully dried, if you are going put the metal edging on like I did, you only have a few steps to go.

Spray paint the brackets and the screws Matte Black. Once fully dried, apply a second coat, let dry.

Align and drill pilot holes before screwing the brackets in place.


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Check check me out on Pinterest too!