Month: June 2017 - This DIY Home

Wallmount Bottle Opener for under $20

Hey All, With Father’s Day this past weekend, it was a pretty last minute gift idea that we decided on. We only had a week to have it completed (which we successfully did, longest was waiting for delivery of the bottle opener), we made two things. The first being in this post, the other, a custom end table/magazine rack will be posted later. This project a Wallmount Bottle Opener, is super quick and easy to build and can be done with scrap that you have lying around. If you do not have any scrap, with buying the bottle openers, materials are under $15. I haven’t done any sayings on it yet, as I’m letting my husband choose which one he wants. When that gets completed, I will put an updated photo up of it.

Make sure you read through the instructions and look over the plans fully before you start your project. Check out the “Before You Start” page for more on tool information, tips & tricks. Always stay safe and wear all safety protection. It is always best to make your cuts as you go and as they say, measure twice and cut once.
If you have any questions just ask away!

Shopping List

1 – 1” x 8” x 4’

1 – 1” x 4” x 4’

Metal Wall Mount Bottle Opener – Amazon

1 ¼” wood Screws

Stain

Wood Glue

Stainable Wood Filler

Cut List

1 – 1” x 8” @ 17” – Back

1 – 1” x 8” @ 4 ¼” – Bottom

2 – 1” x 4” @ 4 ¼” – Sides

1 – 1” x 4” @ 8 ½” – Front

Tools Needed

 

Circular Saw

 

Drill

 

Sander

 

Measuring Tape

 

Pencil

 

 

Gloves

 

Shop Towels

 

Ear Protection

 

Safety Glasses

The Step-by-Step

Use 1 ¼” Wood Screws & Glue to attach the bottom to the back piece. (recess the screws slightly to allow space for wood filler)

Using the 1 ¼” Wood Screws & Glue to Attach the sides to the Back/Bottom

Again, use the 1 ¼” Wood Screws and Glue to attach the front piece.

Wood fill and allow it to dry before giving a good sand. Then apply your stain.

Once the stain has dried, attach the Bottle Opener!

 

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Watering Hose Post for under $20

It’s the perfect time of year to get any of those outdoor projects that have been put off finally finished. For myself its sprucing up the front yard and there is endless amounts to do in the backyard. The one big thing my front yard needed is a spot to hang the watering hose. Its connection is in the garage, which is normally where the hose would be hung. However, it gets used so often that it never seems to make it back to the spot in the garage. So, the first outdoor project this year was the Watering Hose Post!

I decided to take some of the extra scrap pieces I had lying around and make a freestanding post for it and I’m pretty happy with the result. It adds some curb appeal while making it more functional. The hose is actually being hung up again.

Make sure you read through the instructions and look over the plans fully before you start your project. Check out the “Before You Start” page for more on tool information, tips & tricks. Always stay safe and wear all safety protection. It is always best to make your cuts as you go and as they say, measure twice and cut once.
If you have any questions just ask away!

Shopping List

1 – 4″x4″x8′ Fence post

1 – Scrap Piece of 2″x6″ x 6″

2 1/2″ Screws – Pocket Screws if using Kreg Jig

1 – Basic Hose Hanger 

 

Stain

Polyurethane

 

 

Cut List

Dimensions can change if you are looking to make the Post Taller

1 – 2″ x 6″ @ 5 1/2″ – Top Piece

1 – 4″ x 4″ @ 3′

2 – 4″ x 4″ @ 8″

Tools Needed

Circular Saw

Drill

Kreg Jig

Tape Measure

 

Pencil

Safety Glasses

Ear Protection

Step-by-Step

After you have made all the necessary cuts for this build, we will start by making the base. If you have

Using the 3 pieces of 4″ x 4″ cut at 11″, attach them together using pocket holes, or just screw in from an angle.  

Next, we will attach the post to the base using the same method of using pocket holes. 

Attach the top 2″ x 6″ piece to the top of the post by screwing directly from the top of the board. Another option, is you can buy one of the decorative fence post toppers to use on top. 

Now comes the time to stain and seal the wood and allow it to fully dry before you attach the Hose Hanger

Place it where you want and there you go!, 

 

 

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Loft Bed with Built In Bookcase & Desk

Hey All,

Kids grow up way too fast for my liking. One second my daughter is all about the big comfy bed shed has and the next second, she is asking for a loft bed with a desk where she can do her school and art stuff. It all came about one lovely trip to Ikea that we recently did. We were doing the regular walk through and then my daughter spots this Metal basic frame loft bed that has a desk attachment to it. She thought it was the greatest thing ever. Keep in mind, she has a small room, a double bed pressed against a wall and her dresser only fit in it, so there is no surprise she wanted something a little more fun. When I looked at the price, I knew right away that I could build something even better for less. So, planning underway.

I found a great set of plans on Ana White that had a built-in bookcase on the one end that acts as a stronger support. However, the only thing that I did not like was the desk portion that they had. The rest I thought was great. Using these plans, I started planning what I would then do for a desk. I decided upon using these old Qube shelf units that I was going to through away as the legs for the desk and just a slab hardboard top. Using this for the top allowed me to make it more curved like the one from Ikea allowing for max amount of desk space and keeping it comfortable.

Now keep in mind that this is a big unit overall and therefore, more than likely having to be built in the room itself. However, it can be disassembled down the line if you are going to be moving at all. 

 

For those in Canada – Please use the Plan drawings for measurements on cuts as Canadian Lumber measurements are slightly different by Aprox 1/4″ in some places

For those in the U.S – You can use the measurements in the Cut List. 

 

Make sure you read through the instructions and look over the plans fully before you start your project. Check out the “Before You Start” page for more on tool information, tips & tricks. Always stay safe and wear all safety protection. It is always best to make your cuts as you go and as they say, measure twice and cut once.

If you have any questions just ask away!

 

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 If you like the desk from the original plans from Ana White, you can find it here, if not, see the plans for the desk I built here.

 

Shopping List

Total Materials for Bed/Desk/Bookshelf

16 – 1″ x 3″ x 8′

3 – 1″ x 8″ x 10′

1 – 1″ x 8″ x 4′

3 – 1″ x 4″ x 8′

1 – 2″ x 2″ x 8′

13 – 1″ x 2″ x 8′

4 – 1″ x 12″ x 8′

 

 

 

1 – 4′ x 8′ piece of hardboard

1 – 5/8″ x 49″ x 97″ MDF – (If Doing the same desk as I)

1 1/4″ Screws

2″ Screws

Wood Filler

Paint

Cut List

Cut List for Loft Bed
8 – 1×3 @ 71″ ( Legs)
4 – 1×8 @ 37 1/2″ (Large Planks, Ends)
2 – 1×4 @ 37 1/2″ (Top Planks)
3 – 1×8 @ 80″ (Front and Back Rails)
1 – 1×4 @ 80″ (Top Back Rail)
2 – 1×3 @ 46 1/2″ (Back Filler Piece,)
6 – 1×3 @ 2″ (Back Filler Piece )
2 – 1×3 @ 56″ (Front Filler Pieces)
2 – 1×3 @ 7 1/2″ (Front Filler Pieces)
1 – 1×2 @ 80″ (Back, Top Piece)
2 – 1×3 @ 40 1/2″ (End, Top Pieces)
2 – 1×2 @ 75″ (Cleats)
1 – 2×2 @ 76 3/4″ (Center Support)
14 – 1×2 @ 39″ (Slats)

Cut List for Guard Rail
1 – 1×4 @ 61” (Rail)
1 – 1×2 @ 61” (Top)
3 – 1×4 @ 15” (Uprights)
6 – 1×4 @ 2” (Filler Pieces)

 

 

Ladder Cut List
2 – 1×3 @ 65 3/4″ Overall (Bottom end cut at 15 degrees off square, top at 75 degrees off square)
10 – 1×3 @ 10 3/8″ (Spacers, ends cut parallel at 15 degrees off square)
5 – 1×3 @ 12 1/2″ (Treads)
2 – 1×3 @ 10″ 

Cut List for Bookcase

2 – 1×12 @ 56″ (Sides)
5 – 1×12 @ 36″ (Shelves)
1 – 1×3 @ 36″(Footer)
4 – 1×2 @ 36″ (Shelf Trim)
4 – 1×2 @ 9″ (Optional Shelf Supports)

Cut List for Desk

Please see the plans though the link to Ana White’s site for the use of her desk plans. 

For the plans for the desk I did :

3 Double Stacked Cubed Cupboards

1 – MDF Board cut to 68″ x 40″ then trimmed down with a Jig Saw to shape. *see photo*

Tools Needed

Mitre Saw or Circular Saw

 

Jig Saw

 

Drill

 

Clamps

 

Measuring Tape

 

Pencil

 

Wood Glue

 

Sander

 

Finish Nailer

 

Wood Filler

 

Safety Glasses

 

Ear Protection

 

Gloves

 

Paint Brush

 

 

 

The Step-by-Step

You can find the Original plans for the Loft Bed here and Bookcase on here. If you like the desk that they use, you can find it here, if not, see the plans for the desk I built here.

 

The Loft Bed

First we are going to build the ends using 2” Wood Screws and Wood Glue.

Center the 37 ½” planks on the sides of the legs and screw

If you are building the Bookcase as well, the bottom plank is only needed on one end. The other end will be supported by the bookcase.

 

 

 

 With this being such a big piece of furniture, these next pieces are going to be made removable in case you ever need to move.

We are going to mark off where these rail pieces go and use a screw to temporarily hold the boards in place.

 

 

Measure out and cut the filler pieces for the back, as shown in the photo.

Use wood Glue and 1 ¼” Wood screws /Brad Nails to attach.

Note: Make sure that you do not make them to tight to the rails. There needs to be a little space for being able to remove the boards

 

We are going to do the same for the front filler pieces as we did in the back.

Measure out and cut, then use wood Glue and 1 ¼” Wood screws /Brad Nails to attach.

 

Now we are going to add the Outer Leg pieces, 1” x 3” @ 71”.

However, first we need to unscrew the rail boards we put in temporarily in step 2.

Once that has been done, with the rail boards resting in place, attach the Outer Legs pieces using 2” Wood Screws and wood glue.

**Note: Do not fasten through the rail boards

 

Now fasten the Back Top piece, 1” x 2” @ 80”, to the back legs using 2” Wood Screws. Do not use wood glue to attach this board, as it will need to be able to be removed if you have to take the bed apart to move.

This board will be flush with the back, but will have a ledge exposed in the front to attach the Top Side pieces. See the drawing below.

For the Top Side pieces (1” x 3” @ 40 ½”) you will attach them using Wood Glue and 2” Wood Screws. This will be attached  to the ledge over the back legs the flush over the front legs. As shown in the drawing.

 

The side cleats, 1” x 2” @ 75” will be fastened to the side rails, flush with the bottom edge. Use 1 ¼” Wood Screws and wood glue to attach.

The Center Cleat 2” x 2” @ 75” will be centered and flush with the bottom of the 1” x 8” Plank. Use 2” Wood screws from the outside to attach, but do not use wood glue for this support.

 

Position the slats, 1” x 2” @ 40”, with a 4” Gap in between. A quick way to lay out is to make two scrap pieces at 4” to act as spacers as you go. Attach the slats using 1 ¼” Wood screws

 

Now it’s time to build and attach the Guardrail. Use 1 ¼” Wood Screws and wood glue to assemble the unit through the side that won’t be visible. When assembled attach the guardrail to the frame again using 1 ¼” Wood screws and wood glue through the front rail.

The Ladder

Now it’s time to build the ladder for the bed! Cutting the top of the ladder (legs) is the only tricky part, the rest of the build just flies along.

The best way to cut the 2 leg boards is to cut 75 Degrees off square, leaving 15 degrees. I would definitely use a Jig Saw or Circular Saw to do this.

Next, measure down 2 ¼” from the top point and cut at a right angle (90 Degrees)

Then, measure down 65 ¾” and cut a 15 degree angle at the bottom of the leg (See the drawing below). Do this for both legs then use the top of this board as a guide to cut the 2 top filler pieces.

Construct the ladder as shown in the drawing using 1 ¼” screws  when joining the filler pieces to the side legs and 2” wood screws when attaching the treads to the leg sides. Don’t forget to use the Wood glue for all pieces.

 

To attach the ladder to the bed, use 1 ¼” wood Screws from the inside going through the bottom rail into the ladder.

 

 

The Bookcase

It’s time to big the Bookcase that will also act as support for the bed.

 

Using the 1” x 12” boards, build the frame shown below. Measure and mark the location of the shelves on both the front and back so that you are able to properly line the shelves up. This also makes it easier to know where to screw. Use 2” Wood  screws and wood glue from the outside of the frame.  If you own an Kreg Jig, you can drill pocket holes on the underside of the shelves as an alternative method.

 

Attach the footer 1” x 3” piece shown in the photo, set back ½” using 2” wood screws and glue from the side.. Again, if you are using a Kreg Jig, drill your pocket holes on the ends of the 1” x 3” and attach to the sides.

 

Cut your wood panel to size and tack on with 1” Nails. If you have a brad nailer, it makes this easier.

 

Just like when doing the footer, attach the top shelf trims the same way using 2” Wood Screws and glue or using your Kreg Jig.

 

This step is optional, but I highly recommend doing it. This keeps the top shelves from moving, and gives them that extra support. Use scrap pieces of 1” x 2” and fasten to the sides of the frame.

 

Now that the bookshelf is fully assembled, it’s time to attach it to the Loft Bed.

Using 2” Wood Screws, attach the bookshelf to the legs of the loft bed. Set it back so that it is flush with the rail up above.

 

The Desk

Lastly, if you are going to building in the desk, you would do so here. For using the original desk plans from Ana White, check the links above. If you are going to do something similar to what I did, its very simple.

I used Left of Cube Shelves that I had from IKEA as the legs. I then took a piece of MDF and cut it to size to fit in the area. While in place I marked out the curved pattern and used the jig saw to trim it to shape.

 

Finishing

Once all of this is done, its time to finish the Bed.

Fill any holes with wood filler, let dry then give it a good sand before you paint it the desired colour.

 

 

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