Industrial Coffee Table

Hey Guys, One of my friends has been updating their living room with new furniture and asked if I would put together some pieces for her. I started with their coffee table. It needed to suit their style which is a more Rustic Industrial look. It also needed to be very durable since she had just gotten a puppy who is going to get big pretty quickly. We went through many options and when I showed her this design, she absolutely loved it. This Industrial Coffee table has legs that are painted to look like Metal, but the whole thing is made out of wood!  This table is a very simple and easy design so it’s a great option for a beginner DIY. On top of that the price point is fantastic.

Make sure you read through the instructions and look over the plans fully before you start your project. Check out the “Before You Start” page for more on tool information, tips & tricks. Always stay safe and wear all safety protection. It is always best to make your cuts as you go and as they say, measure twice and cut once.

If you have any questions just ask away!

 

CLICK HERE – FREE PDF PRINTABLE PLANS!

Shopping List

5 – 2″ x 6″ x 8′

4 – 2″ x 2″ x 8′

2 1/2″ Pocket Screws

2″  Wood Screws

Stain

Primer

Spray Paint

Stainable Wood Filler

Cut List

4 – 2″ x 2″ @ 45″ – LONG SIDE

4 -2″ x 2″ @ 24 1/2″ – SHORT SIDE

10 – 2″ x 6″ @ 48″ – TOP & BOTTOM SHELF

4 – 2″ x 2″ @ 16.5″ – LEGS

Tools Needed

 

Circular Saw

 

Drill

 

Kreg Jig

 

Clamps

 

Measuring Tape

 

Paint Brush

 

 

Pencil

 

Shop Towels

 

Safety Glasses

 

Ear Protection

 

Dust Mask

 

Gloves

The Step-by-Step

The Top & Bottom Shelf Assembly

Build each by Drilling 1 1/2″ Pocket Holes along the long end of the boards.

Use 2 1/2″ Pocket screws & Wood glue to attach the boards together. 

For the bottom shelf, cut out a 1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ Square out of each corner. This will be where it its into the Frame.

 

The Frame

To assemble the frame you first need to drill 1 1/2″ Pocket hole in each end of the 2″ x 2″ @ 44″ – LONG SIDE & 2″ x 2″ @24 1/2″ SHORT SIDE boards.

Attach the Short Side pieces  to the leg Pieces using 2 1/2″ Pocket Screws & Wood Glue. 

Now attach the 2 Long Side bottom pieces using 2 1/2″ Pocket Screws & Wood Glue

Place the bottom shelf into place, but do not fasten. We will fasten the bottom shelf later on. 

Now that the bottom shelf is in place, we can attach the 2 Top Long Side Pieces using 2 1/2″ Pocket Screws & Wood Glue.

 

Now, Before we can attach the bottom Shelf, and the top into place, we need to finish the frame. 

First, wood fill and sand any holes that are visible, then give the frame a good sand. 

Once the Frame is ready, its time to prime & paint in the colour you have chosen. I used the Rustoleum Metallic Dark Steel. It took one coat of the primer and 2 coats of paint.

Once the paint is dry you can attach the bottom shelf  &  the Top to the frame using 2 1/2″ Wood screws. Attach through the Frame.

Tip: attach the bottom shelf first by flipping the table on its side. Attach the top at the end so that it does not get damaged being against the floor.

 

The Final Finish

Just as you did for the frame, use wood filler on the table top and bottom shelf.

Once it has dried, give it a really good sand. 

Mask off the Painted frame and stain the top and bottom shelf. 

Once the stain has dried apply 2 coats of Polyurethane.

 

 

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Rustic Chunky Leg Coffee Table

Hey Guys, for all of you who have loved the look of the Rustic X Coffee table, but did not have the room for the length of it, here is a great alternative, the Rustic Chunky Leg Coffee Table. I have taken the table and turned it a 3 Foot square table. Now, with it being square, the 2” x 4” legs would not look right. Instead, 4” x 4” boards were used as the legs to keep the table looking balanced.

 

Make sure you read through the instructions and look over the plans fully before you start your project. Check out the “Before You Start” page for more on tool information, tips & tricks. Always stay safe and wear all safety protection. It is always best to make your cuts as you go and as they say, measure twice and cut once.

If you have any questions just ask away!

CLICK HERE – FREE PRINTABLE PDF PLANS 

Shopping List

4 – 2” x 4” x 8’
 
2 – 2” x 2” x 8’
 
1 – 1” x 10” x 8’
 

3 – 2” x 8” x 8’

L Brackets

Screws

2 ½” pocket Screws

1 ¼” Pocket Screws

2 “ Wood Screws

Paint

Stain

Polyurethane

Stainable Wood Filler

Cut List

8- 2” x 4” @ 27 ¾” – SUPPORTS
 
4 – 4” x 4” @ 16 ½” – LEGS
 
5 – 2” x 8” @ 36 ¼” – TOP
 
3 – 1 “ x 10”  @ 27 ¾” SHELF
 
2 – 2” x 2” @ 26 11/16″ From LONG END to SHORT END – 65 Degree cuts are Parallel **SEE TIP to Cut**
 
4 – 2” x 2” @ 11 3/8″ From SHORT END of 65 Degree angle to Long End of 40 Degree Angle **SEE TIP to cut**

Tools Needed

 
 
Mitre Saw

 

Kreg Jig

 

Drill

 

Sander

 

Clamps

 

Pencil

 

Tape Measure

 

Wood Glue

 

Shop Towels

 

Paint Brush

 

Ear Protection

 

Safety Glasses

 

Dust Mask

The Step-by-Step

The Base

First, pocket holes are needed on both ends of each 2 “ x 4” @ 27 ¾” Support Board

Use 2 ½” Pocket Screws & Wood Glue to attach these boards to the Legs. The top supports will be flush with the top of the Legs, the bottom support will be 2 ¼” from the bottom of the leg.

 

Next, we need to assemble the bottom shelf.

Drill ¾” Pocket holes on all sides of the boards. These will be used to attach the shelf together as well as to attach the shelf to the supports.

Use 1 ¼” Pocket screws & Wood Glue to assemble the boards together & attach to the supports.

 

Now its time to attach the X’s. Use 2 “ Wood screws and wood Glue to attach through the supports and use 2 ½” Pocket screws to attach the smaller pieces to the long Piece. Start with the Long piece, and then add the 2 smaller pieces.

TIP: To Cut these pieces, its best to first lay out the Full piece and mark off your lines. Cut & Install that piece first. For the smaller pieces, do the same thing. Mark and cut one full piece then place in behind the other and mark off the other cuts your are going to need. These will be around 40 Degrees

 

The Top

 Drill 1 ½” pocket holes in the 5 boards for the top, then use 2 ½” Pocket screws & Wood Glue to attach the boards together.

Assemble & Finish

Spray paint the 4 corner brackets and the co-ordinating Screws

While the brackets are drying, it’s time to finish the table. Use the stainable wood filler to fill in any pocket holes, the gaps in the top and any other imperfections.

 Once the wood filler has dried, give everything a good sand.

 Next, paint, stain and polyurethane depending on how you decided the table will look.

Note: remember if you will be painting the base of the table, do not forget to prime first.

 

Use 2 “ Wood Screws through the top support to attach the top.

 Finally attach the 4 corner brackets to the table top edge with the screws you also painted.

 

 

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Side Table with a Magazine Rack & Shelf

Hey all, here is the other gift that was made for father’s day. A couch side table for my husband that has a magazine rack and shelf. The best part is how compact it is for the limited space and its custom height to fit right over the arm of the couch. It doesn’t take much to build this and can be made for under $25.00.

 

Make sure you read through the instructions and look over the plans fully before you start your project. Check out the “Before You Start” page for more on tool information, tips & tricks. Always stay safe and wear all safety protection. It is always best to make your cuts as you go and as they say, measure twice and cut once.

If you have any questions just ask away!

CLICK HERE – FREE PRINTABLE PDF PLANS 

Shopping List

1 – 1” x 6” x 8’

1 – 1” x 10” x 4’

Wood Glue

1 – 1” x 8” x 4’

1 ¼” Wood Screws

Stain-able Wood-Filler

Stain

Polyurethane

Cut List

1 – 1” x 12” @ 16” Top

1 – 1” x 8” @ 16” Bottom

2 – 1” x 6” @ 23” Sides

3 – 1” x 6” @14 ½” Shelf & Mag Front

1 – 1” x 8” @ 16” Back Of Magazine

Tools Needed

 

Circular Saw

 

Sander

 

Drill

 

Measuring Tape

 

Pencil

 

Shop Towels

 

Gloves

 

Safety Glasses

 

Ear Protection

Step-By-Step

 

First thing you will do is pre-sand the boards, otherwise you will have a hard time once the stand is built.

 

Take the 2 boards for the sides and attach both the top and bottom boards using 1 ¼” wood screws and wood glue

Build the little shelf using 2 of the 1” x 6” @ 14 ½” boards. First attach the back board then attach the bottom of the shelf. Again use 1 ¼” wood screws to attach

The last 2 boards are for the magazine rack. The large 1” x 8” board will be the back piece (going against the couch) The smaller is for the front. Use the 1 ¼” wood screws to attach

All that is left is to finish. Fill with stain-able wood filler, Give another sand, stain and apply your polyurethane.

 

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Wallmount Bottle Opener for under $20

Hey All, With Father’s Day this past weekend, it was a pretty last minute gift idea that we decided on. We only had a week to have it completed (which we successfully did, longest was waiting for delivery of the bottle opener), we made two things. The first being in this post, the other, a custom end table/magazine rack will be posted later. This project a Wallmount Bottle Opener, is super quick and easy to build and can be done with scrap that you have lying around. If you do not have any scrap, with buying the bottle openers, materials are under $15. I haven’t done any sayings on it yet, as I’m letting my husband choose which one he wants. When that gets completed, I will put an updated photo up of it.

Make sure you read through the instructions and look over the plans fully before you start your project. Check out the “Before You Start” page for more on tool information, tips & tricks. Always stay safe and wear all safety protection. It is always best to make your cuts as you go and as they say, measure twice and cut once.
If you have any questions just ask away!

Shopping List

1 – 1” x 8” x 4’

1 – 1” x 4” x 4’

Metal Wall Mount Bottle Opener – Amazon

1 ¼” wood Screws

Stain

Wood Glue

Stainable Wood Filler

Cut List

1 – 1” x 8” @ 17” – Back

1 – 1” x 8” @ 4 ¼” – Bottom

2 – 1” x 4” @ 4 ¼” – Sides

1 – 1” x 4” @ 8 ½” – Front

Tools Needed

 

Circular Saw

 

Drill

 

Sander

 

Measuring Tape

 

Pencil

 

 

Gloves

 

Shop Towels

 

Ear Protection

 

Safety Glasses

The Step-by-Step

Use 1 ¼” Wood Screws & Glue to attach the bottom to the back piece. (recess the screws slightly to allow space for wood filler)

Using the 1 ¼” Wood Screws & Glue to Attach the sides to the Back/Bottom

Again, use the 1 ¼” Wood Screws and Glue to attach the front piece.

Wood fill and allow it to dry before giving a good sand. Then apply your stain.

Once the stain has dried, attach the Bottle Opener!

 

.

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Rustic Mason Jar Hanging Candle Holder

Hey All,
I hope you all had a good May 2-4 weekend, sadly the weather here wasn’t too great. However, it did give me a chance to work on this next project. Here is another fun little how to for a decoration that I have used in my home, a rustic mason jar hanging candle holder. This project is similar to the Rustic Wall Hung Milk Bottle Flower Vase that I did a while back. The longest amount of time it takes for this project is truly just the drying time, which has several stages. So this can even be a project that you do in between working on other projects

Make sure you read through the instructions and look over the plans fully before you start your project. Check out the “Before You Start” page for more on tool information, tips & tricks. Always stay safe and wear all safety protection. It is always best to make your cuts as you go and as they say, measure twice and cut once.

If you have any questions just ask away!

Shopping List

Piece of Scrap wood, aprox 12” wide x 24” High

Mason Jar

Hook

Mason Jar Hanger

Picture Hanger Bracket

Dark Stain (Dark Walnut or Ebony)

Paint

Spray Paint – Black

Candle

Tools Needed


Circular Saw

 

Hammer

 

Rubber Gloves

 

Dust Mask

 

Sandpaper

 

Paint Brush

 

Shop Towels

The Step By Step

Cut the board down to the size that you want

Stain the entire board and let It dry. While you are waiting, use the spray paint to paint the hook & the Mason Jar Hanger.

Once Dry, paint the entire board and let it dry.

Lightly give the board a sand to bring through the stain colour. Concentrate on the edges and certain spots to give it a rustic look.

Attach the picture hanger to the back of the board.

Layout where you want the hook to be and screw it in by hand.

Screw the Mason Jar Lid Hanger onto the mason jar. Place Candle inside and hang.

Tip: To keep the candle in place, use a lighter to melt a bit of the bottom of the candle. Place it in the jar and hold it in place for a minute.




Rustic X Coffee Table

Hey All,

My sister-in-law just moved into a new place and decided in order to make the place more to her style, she’s having me build some of her furniture. The first piece she decided on was a coffee table. However, down the road she’ll be having other pieces built in the same look, i.e. bookcase, console table, etc.

After searching on Pinterest for ideas she decided on one in particular she loved. The Rustic X Coffee Table found on Ana White. Its actually part of the line I was looking at eventually building for myself, so I definitely enjoyed doing this build.

I did make a few small changes. On Ana White’s plans it called for a 1″ x 12″ x 8′ board to be used for the bottom shelf. In Canada, when you do manage to find that size, its pretty expensive. I ended up using 1″ x 6″ x 8′ boards instead, which were a fraction of the cost. However, doing it this way had me adjust the width of the base of the table slightly, but not a big deal in the long run.

 

Make sure you read through the instructions and look over the plans fully before you start your project. Check out the “Before You Start” page for more on tool information, tips & tricks. Always stay safe and wear all safety protection. It is always best to make your cuts as you go and as they say, measure twice and cut once.

If you have any questions just ask away!

 

CLICK HERE FOR FREE PRINTABLE PDF PLANS – RUSTIC X COFFEE TABLE 

 

Shopping List

2 – 2″ x 4″ x 8′

4 – 2″x 2″ x 8′

2 – 1″ x 6″ x 8′

5 – 2″ x 6″ x 8′

1 1/4″ Pocket Screws

2 1/2″ Pocket Screws

8 – Flat Brackets OR 4 – Corners with Screws

Spray Paint – Black 

Stain

Polyurethane

Cut List

4 – 2″ x 4″ @ 16 ½” (legs)

4 – 2″ x 2″ @ 41” (side trim)

4 – 2″ x 4″ @ 21” (end trim)

4 – 1″ x 6″ @ 41” (bottom shelf)

2 – 2″ x 2″ @ 22 ½” (both ends cut at 60 degrees off square, long point to short point, ends are parallel)

4 – 2″ x 2″ @ 11 ¼” (long point to short point, one end cut at 60 degrees off square, other end cut at 30 degrees off square, ends are not parallel but are cut in same direction)

5 – 2″ x 6″ @ 52” (tabletop boards)

Tools Needed

 

Mitre Saw

 

Sander

 

Drill

 

Kreg Jig

 

Tape Measure

 

Pencil

 

 

 

Safety Glasses

 

Ear Protection

 

Paint Brush

 

Shop Towels

 

Gloves

TABLE BASE

First, we are going to build the two sides to this table using the 2″ x 4″ x 16.5″ and the 2″ x 2″ x 41″ boards. 

A pocket hole must be drilled in each of of the 2″ x 2″ x 41″ boards, then use 2 1/2″ pocket screws to attach them. The bottom 2″ x 2″ will be 2 1/4″ up from the floor

From there we have to attach the end trim/supports to connect these sides together using the 2″ x 4″ x 21″ boards. 

Both of these boards will have 2 pocket holes on each end. Again, use 2 1/2″ pocket screws to attach.

 

For me, the bottom shelf of this table consists of 4 – 1” x 6” boards cut to 41”. Use your Kreg Jig to Drill ¾” pocket holes to attach them together with 1 ¼” pocket screws.

You will also need to drill pocket holes around the perimeter of the shelf. This is how the shelf is attached to the frame.

 

 

Constructing the X is where it can get a bit more complicated. Since I used 1” x 6” opposed to the 1” x 12” boards from Ana White’s Plans, the width of my table base changed. Therefore changing the angles and lengths of the 2” x 2” boards used to make the X.

I started with the Long piece of the X. Since the width decreased I knew that the angle was going to slightly as well. Instead of cutting the one end at 60 Degrees, I cut it to 58.5 Degrees. From there I used the actually piece and the table frame to measure out the length that piece was going to be. I also cut that end at 58.5 degrees.

I did the same thing for the small components of the X. I cut the one end to 58.5 and laid it out. The other end, butting up against the long piece was cut down to just short of 30 Degrees. Attach these boards using 2 ½” screws.

 NOTE: Before attach the X to the table base, I gave the bottom shelf and each individual component of the X a very good sand. This made it easier, as it would be very hard to sand when the X is attached.

 

THE TOP

Now comes the time to put the top together using the 5 – 2” x 8” @ 52” boards.

 Drill 1 ½” pocket holes in the boards and attach them using 2 ½” pocket screws & Wood Glue.

 Before I attached the top to the base, I gave a 4” width perimeter of the bottom side of the top a good sand. Again, it was easier to do this now than when the top is attached to the frame. Use 2 ½” Wood Screws to attach the top by going from the underside through the 2” x 2” and 2” x 4” trims/supports.

 

Now that the table is constructed it comes down to finishing it. Use your Stainable wood filler to fill any pocket holes. I also used it to fill in the gaps between the boards for my top so there is nowhere to guck to collect.

Once the wood filler has dried, its time to give it a really good sand, first with 120 Grit and then 220 also for the top.

Vacuum and wipe the table down to remove any dust before you stain & seal with polyurethane. I always do 2 coats of the polyurethane, especially on table tops as it gives that extra protection.

 

Now, once the Polyurethane has fully dried, if you are going put the metal edging on like I did, you only have a few steps to go.

Spray paint the brackets and the screws Matte Black. Once fully dried, apply a second coat, let dry.

Align and drill pilot holes before screwing the brackets in place.

 

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Quick Closet Shelves

 

Hey All,  this is going to be a pretty short post, as the how to is pretty simple for this project. In all, it took about an hour to do this update to my closet. Like the title says, Quick Closet Shelves.

See, we have more limited storage space in our house. There are small closets, and only the ones in the bedroom and a small one by the back door. With that being said, we have always kept all of our clothes folded and in dressers, the closet was just for sweaters and my dresses. The issue was always managing to make all of the clothes fit into the dresser drawers, and when looking for something, having to really dig through to find it. As you all know, digging through a drawer ends up causing you to have to refold at least a few things. This caused a chain effect of “why bother putting the clothes away when they will get messed up and be difficult to find” which lead to piles of clothes on the dresser or still in the hamper unfolded.

I finally had enough and took off to Home Depot one morning, mid-folding. I took measurements of my closet, decided how many shelves I wanted and that was it. This project came to just over $40.00 CAD and so far has been amazing for such a small change. Even my husband is doing some of the folding.

 

Make sure you read through the instructions and look over the plans fully before you start your project. Check out the “Before You Start” page for more on tool information, tips & tricks. Always stay safe and wear all safety protection. It is always best to make your cuts as you go and as they say, measure twice and cut once.

If you have any questions just ask away!

Shopping List

3 – 5/8″ x 15 3/4″ x 96″ White Shelves

5 – 1″ x 2″ x 8′

Cut List

My closet is 47″ Wiide by 25″ deep. There is already one existing shelf in, and I want to add 6 more. 

6 – 5/8″ x 15 3/4″ @ 46 3/4″ 

6 – 1″ x 2″ @ 46 7/8″

12 – 1″ x 2″ @ 17″

Tools Needed

 

Mitre Saw / Circular Saw

 

Measuring Tape

 

Pencil

 

Level

 

 

 

Brad Nailer

 

Safety Glasses

 

Ear Protection

Step-by-Step

Fist all you need to remove the current closet rod and then measure and mark off the locations on where the shelves are going to be.  

Note: Keep in mind that the heights of where you are off are for the support locations. The thickness of the shelves will be above that. 

Identify where any studs are. Usually you can tell from the existing shelf in your closet. The support that is there for it will have either nails or screws in place. 

Install all of the 1″ x 2″  supports.  I used a brad nailer, and added more nails in the locations of the studs. Where there were no studs, I put the nails in on an Upward & Downward angle

 Starting from the top, place the shelves in. There you have it, Quick Closet Shelves! 

 

 

 

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Farmhouse Truss Beam Bench

Hey All!

I figured it was about time to post about the matching Farmhouse Truss Beam Bench  that was made to go with the 4×4 Farmhouse table I made at Christmas. Just like the Table, this bench was scaled down from the original plans done from Shanty-2-Chic and Ana White.

I absolutely love the way it turned out and I have to say that it is a must have to get the overall effect of the Table. The other great thing about this bench is that it doesn’t have to just be made to fit in with a Dining Table. You can scale it down even more then I did and use it as a bench for an entrance way or even use it outside. 

The Original plans from this bench can be found here, and are for having the bench at 87″ in total length. However, since I scaled my dining table down to fit into my space, I also had to scale this bench down as well.  The only measurements that changed for this was the middle 4″ x 4″ beam, the 2 – 2″ x 4″ and the 2″ x 8″s used for the seating. The rest of the measurements remained the same. 

Make sure you read through the instructions and look over the plans fully before you start your project. Check out the “Before You Start” page for more on tool information, tips & tricks. Always stay safe and wear all safety protection. It is always best to make your cuts as you go and as they say, measure twice and cut once.

If you have any questions just ask away!

 

FREE PDF PRINTABLE PLANS COMING VERY SOON!

 

Shopping List

2 – 4″ x 4″ x 8′

1 – 2″ x 4″ x 12′ (can get this cut in half)

1 – 2″ x 8″ x 12′ (can get this cut in half)

1 – 2″x 10″ x 3′ (if you don’t have this laying around from scrap from the table, you can just use scrap 2″ x 8″ pieces instead)

2 1/2″ Pocket Screws

Stain

Cut List

2 – 4″ x 4″ @ 13 1/2″

4 – 4″ x 4″ @ 13 1/4″ (LONG point to LONG point, both ends cut at 10 degrees off square, parallel)

2 – 4×4 @ 8″ (LONG point to LONG point, both ends cut at 10 degrees off square NOT parallel)

1 – 4×4 @ 50″

2 – 2×4 @ 50″

2 – 2×8 @ 53.5″

2 – 2×8 @ 14 1/2″

Tools Needed

Saw

 

Measuring Tape

 

Pencil

 

Sander

 

Drill

 

Paint Brush

 

Wood Glue

Kreg Jig HD

 

Shop Towels

 

Rubber Gloves

 

Safety Glasses

 

Ear Plugs

 

Face Mask for when sanding

The Step-by-Step

Too see the plans and Step-by-Step for the full sized bench Head on over to Ana White’s post

First we are going to build the two legs using the 4″ x  4″ @ 13 1/2″, 4″ x 4″  @ 13 1/4″, and 4″ x 4″ @ 8″ & your Kreg Jig HD, Don’t forget to use your wood glue!

 

Next we are going to attach the 4″ x 4″ @ 50″ & the 2″ x 4″ @ 50″ Supports

Using the Kreg Jig, drill  1 1/2″ pocket holes in the 2″ x 8″. Using the 2 1/2″ Pocket screws attach the boards together.

Lastly, attach the top of the bench to the legs using 2 1/2″ screws from underneath through the 2″ x 4″ boards

With that done you can finish the bench the way you want to. Do not forget to give everything a very good sanding. 

 

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Refinished Bedside Table

Hey all,

Here is another one of my fun curbside finds that I grabbed to refinish. This one though was a lot simpler then the cabinet we found in October. It was again in great condition and just needed a face lift to truly fit into our style.

I was thinking about chalk painting the whole thing and then just using bronze knobs to accent. However, I decided to go my usual route and stain the top instead. This of course added a bit more work but the end result is definitely worth it. This way the knobs and the top actually match.

Materials Needed

Paint

Stain

Polyurethane 

Sandpaper, 80, 120, 220

Knobs

Tools Needed

Sander

Screwdriver

The Step-By-Step

 

I started with giving the whole stand a really good cleaning to make sure nothing was on it that could effect the paint or stain finish.

Once that was done, it was time to work on the only time consuming part, sanding the coating off the top. This cabinet has a wood veneer, so essentially a very thin coating of real wood with a gloss finish over it. I used 80 grit sandpaper just to make sure that the gloss coating was off. The hardest part was sanding the routered edges. For this I had to sand by hand. Once the gloss was off, I went up to 120 grit sandpaper then 220 to finish.

I decided to paint the cabinet first, especially since I was using a caulk paint spray paint. (This way I didn’t accidentally get the  stained top with any paint) It took 2 coats of doing this, but turned out already looking like a whole new stand.

Once the paint was fully dry I started staining the top using the MiniWax Dark Walnut stain I have. After letting that sit overnight to dry I added my polyurethane top coating. For the polyurethane, I did 2 coats of it with using 220 grit sandpaper after each coat was dry.

Time for the finishing touch!!! New knobs. They are actually my go to for these projects, they look great and have a fantastic price point. They are a Richelieu Square knob in Oil Rubbed Bronze.




X Style TV Console Stand for $100

Hey there! As mentioned before, slowly but surely I have been putting together my husband’s man cave. It definitely is coming together now, especially with the now built TV Console stand. For the last while he has been sitting on bean bag chairs, not wanting to put his couch in. His current make shift tv stand is way to low to watch from on a couch. Let’s just say he was really happy I made this the next “to-do” project. 

I saw a post on Pinterest from a couple who built something similar as a console stand with only one shelf and being over Six Feet long. It definitely did not meet the criteria for what I was going to use it for, but I loved the look of it, so I decided to modify it to what I needed. First I took a look, and a few measurements of what would be going onto this TV Console Stand. From the tv itself, the Sound bar, PS4, games and movies. From there, the planning started for how I was going to build it.

Make sure you read through the instructions and look over the plans fully before you start your project. Check out the “Before You Start” page for more on tool information, tips & tricks. Always stay safe and wear all safety protection. It is always best to make your cuts as you go and as they say, measure twice and cut once.

If you have any questions just ask away!

Shopping List

12 – 1″ x 4″ x 8′ 

2 – 2″ x 4″ x 8′

5 – 2″ x 8″ x 8′

3 – 2″ x 6″ x 8′ 

1 – 1″ x 6″ x 8′

6 – 1″ x 2″ x 8′

2 – 11/16″ Cove Moulding Pieces x 8′

2″ Wood Screws

2 1/2″ Wood Screws

 

Cut List

Top

2 – 2″ x 8″ x 55″

1 – 1″ x 2″ x 55″

Base Frame 

4 – 2″ x 4″ x 47″

4 – 2″ x 4″ x 12 3/4″

4 – 2″ x 4″ x 9 3/4″

22 – 1″ x 4″ x 32″

Interior Supports & Shelves

10 – 1″ x 2″ x 8″

2 – 1″ x 2″ x 50″

4 – 1″ x 2″ x 12″

3 – 2″ x 8″ x 50″

3 – 2″ x 6″ x 50″

Trim 

1 – 1″ x 6″ x 52 7/8″  – Ripped down to 5″ W

2 – 1″ x 6″ x 13 1/2″ – Ripped down to 5″ W

2 – 1″ x 4″ x 14 1/4″

1 – 1″ x 4″ x 54 1/4″

Decorative Trim Moulding – Cove Mould

2 – 52 3/4″ – 45 Degrees not Parallel

4 – Pieces Cut to size Aprx 14 1/4″ – 45 Degrees on one end

 

Tools Needed

 

Pencil

 

Tape Measure

 

Speed Square

 

Clamps

 

Safety Glasses

 

Ear Plugs

Wood Glue

 

 

Drill

 

Mitre Saw

 

Jig Saw

 

Brad Nailer

 

Sander

 

Paint Brush

 

Shop Towels

 

Step-by-Step

Base of the Cabinet

Using the 2″ x 4″ boards, we are going to make the 2 main supports for it. Use the 4 pieces at 47″ , 4 pieces at 12 3/4″, and 4 pieces at 9 3/4. You will use 2 of each size per support.

Using the 2 1/2″ Wood Screws attach them together as so.

Next, Grab your 1″ x 4″ boards and lay them out along the back.  You will have to trim the end one slightly. 

Drill your pilot holes so that you the boards wont crack as you screw them in place. 

Use the 1 1/4″ Wood Screws to attach.

Once you have finished the back, you can move on to the sides. 

Again, one board on each will have to be trimmed slightly. 

Pre-drill pilot holes and use the 1 1/4″ Wood Screws to attach the boards. 

This is now what we have when we stand it up.

Lay in the First set of Shelf boards. I put the 2″ x 6″ board towards the back and the 2″ x 8″ Board at the front. 

From there you will measure up 8″ and This is where the shelf support will be put in. 

Grab your 1″ x 2″ boards that were cut for this and nail them in place. Do not forget to use your Wood Glue for extra Strength.

Lay the next set of shelf boards on to these supports, then repeat the process for the shelf supports & Shelf boards one more time. 

 

Time to work on all the trim pieces. 

First you will take the 1″ x 6″ board that you purchased and trim it down to 5″ to fit over the  base and bottom row of shelves. See the photo below. 

Next, Grab the 1″ x 4″ trim pieces and start covering the top frame. You will also add trim over the 5″ section you just put in as well

Once you have those two sections done, you will install all Horizontal Pieces. 

This is what you will have once all of those 4″ Trim pieces are in place. 

It’s now time to make your X.

Fist cut your long pieces with a 10 Degree angle on one end and a 10 Desgree  on the other.  Ends are Parallel

The smaller pieces are trickier with the angle. You will need a Jig saw or Hand Saw to cut these.

These ends are not Parallel to each other. See the photo Below. 

Glue and Nail these X’s in place. 

Lastly, before we attach the top, we just need to add the Decorative Cove Mould Trim Pieces to both the bottom & The Top. 

These will be mitered to 45″ Angles. 

Attach them with the Brad Nailer. 

This just gives the cabinet that extra little bit. See below. 

 

The Top

Take the 2 – 2″ x 8″ x 55″ boards and drill in your pocket holes & attach the boards using 2 1/2″ Pocket Screws. 

Take the 1″ x 2″ x 55″ Board and screw it  from the back to the back of the top to give you that extra inch that is needed.  Use 2″ Wood Screws for this. 

Now its time to attach the top and apply all the finishing touches. 

Use 2.5″ Screws to attach the top into the Bracing supports of the frame. Set the screws in deeper so that you can apply Stainable Wood Filler over them. 

Sand Away then Stain and paint as desired. 

For the look I went for I stained the top and all the edges. I did this so that after I painted the base of the cabinet I could sand the edges to give it that rustic dated look.