Side Table with a Magazine Rack & Shelf

Hey all, here is the other gift that was made for father’s day. A couch side table for my husband that has a magazine rack and shelf. The best part is how compact it is for the limited space and its custom height to fit right over the arm of the couch. It doesn’t take much to build this and can be made for under $25.00.

 

Make sure you read through the instructions and look over the plans fully before you start your project. Check out the “Before You Start” page for more on tool information, tips & tricks. Always stay safe and wear all safety protection. It is always best to make your cuts as you go and as they say, measure twice and cut once.

If you have any questions just ask away!

CLICK HERE – FREE PRINTABLE PDF PLANS 

Shopping List

1 – 1” x 6” x 8’

1 – 1” x 10” x 4’

Wood Glue

1 – 1” x 8” x 4’

1 ¼” Wood Screws

Stain-able Wood-Filler

Stain

Polyurethane

Cut List

1 – 1” x 12” @ 16” Top

1 – 1” x 8” @ 16” Bottom

2 – 1” x 6” @ 23” Sides

3 – 1” x 6” @14 ½” Shelf & Mag Front

1 – 1” x 8” @ 16” Back Of Magazine

Tools Needed

 

Circular Saw

 

Sander

 

Drill

 

Measuring Tape

 

Pencil

 

Shop Towels

 

Gloves

 

Safety Glasses

 

Ear Protection

Step-By-Step

 

First thing you will do is pre-sand the boards, otherwise you will have a hard time once the stand is built.

 

Take the 2 boards for the sides and attach both the top and bottom boards using 1 ¼” wood screws and wood glue

Build the little shelf using 2 of the 1” x 6” @ 14 ½” boards. First attach the back board then attach the bottom of the shelf. Again use 1 ¼” wood screws to attach

The last 2 boards are for the magazine rack. The large 1” x 8” board will be the back piece (going against the couch) The smaller is for the front. Use the 1 ¼” wood screws to attach

All that is left is to finish. Fill with stain-able wood filler, Give another sand, stain and apply your polyurethane.

 

Now subscribe below to get instant emails to new posts & projects.

&

Check me out on Facebook & Pinterest too!




Wallmount Bottle Opener for under $20

Hey All, With Father’s Day this past weekend, it was a pretty last minute gift idea that we decided on. We only had a week to have it completed (which we successfully did, longest was waiting for delivery of the bottle opener), we made two things. The first being in this post, the other, a custom end table/magazine rack will be posted later. This project a Wallmount Bottle Opener, is super quick and easy to build and can be done with scrap that you have lying around. If you do not have any scrap, with buying the bottle openers, materials are under $15. I haven’t done any sayings on it yet, as I’m letting my husband choose which one he wants. When that gets completed, I will put an updated photo up of it.

Make sure you read through the instructions and look over the plans fully before you start your project. Check out the “Before You Start” page for more on tool information, tips & tricks. Always stay safe and wear all safety protection. It is always best to make your cuts as you go and as they say, measure twice and cut once.
If you have any questions just ask away!

Shopping List

1 – 1” x 8” x 4’

1 – 1” x 4” x 4’

Metal Wall Mount Bottle Opener – Amazon

1 ¼” wood Screws

Stain

Wood Glue

Stainable Wood Filler

Cut List

1 – 1” x 8” @ 17” – Back

1 – 1” x 8” @ 4 ¼” – Bottom

2 – 1” x 4” @ 4 ¼” – Sides

1 – 1” x 4” @ 8 ½” – Front

Tools Needed

 

Circular Saw

 

Drill

 

Sander

 

Measuring Tape

 

Pencil

 

 

Gloves

 

Shop Towels

 

Ear Protection

 

Safety Glasses

The Step-by-Step

Use 1 ¼” Wood Screws & Glue to attach the bottom to the back piece. (recess the screws slightly to allow space for wood filler)

Using the 1 ¼” Wood Screws & Glue to Attach the sides to the Back/Bottom

Again, use the 1 ¼” Wood Screws and Glue to attach the front piece.

Wood fill and allow it to dry before giving a good sand. Then apply your stain.

Once the stain has dried, attach the Bottle Opener!

 

.

Now subscribe below to get instant emails to new posts & projects.

&

Check me out on Facebook & Pinterest too!




Watering Hose Post for under $20

It’s the perfect time of year to get any of those outdoor projects that have been put off finally finished. For myself its sprucing up the front yard and there is endless amounts to do in the backyard. The one big thing my front yard needed is a spot to hang the watering hose. Its connection is in the garage, which is normally where the hose would be hung. However, it gets used so often that it never seems to make it back to the spot in the garage. So, the first outdoor project this year was the Watering Hose Post!

I decided to take some of the extra scrap pieces I had lying around and make a freestanding post for it and I’m pretty happy with the result. It adds some curb appeal while making it more functional. The hose is actually being hung up again.

Make sure you read through the instructions and look over the plans fully before you start your project. Check out the “Before You Start” page for more on tool information, tips & tricks. Always stay safe and wear all safety protection. It is always best to make your cuts as you go and as they say, measure twice and cut once.
If you have any questions just ask away!

Shopping List

1 – 4″x4″x8′ Fence post

1 – Scrap Piece of 2″x6″ x 6″

2 1/2″ Screws – Pocket Screws if using Kreg Jig

1 – Basic Hose Hanger 

 

Stain

Polyurethane

 

 

Cut List

Dimensions can change if you are looking to make the Post Taller

1 – 2″ x 6″ @ 5 1/2″ – Top Piece

1 – 4″ x 4″ @ 3′

2 – 4″ x 4″ @ 8″

Tools Needed

Circular Saw

Drill

Kreg Jig

Tape Measure

 

Pencil

Safety Glasses

Ear Protection

Step-by-Step

After you have made all the necessary cuts for this build, we will start by making the base. If you have

Using the 3 pieces of 4″ x 4″ cut at 11″, attach them together using pocket holes, or just screw in from an angle.  

Next, we will attach the post to the base using the same method of using pocket holes. 

Attach the top 2″ x 6″ piece to the top of the post by screwing directly from the top of the board. Another option, is you can buy one of the decorative fence post toppers to use on top. 

Now comes the time to stain and seal the wood and allow it to fully dry before you attach the Hose Hanger

Place it where you want and there you go!, 

 

 

Now subscribe below to get instant emails to new posts & projects.

&

Check me out on Pinterest too!

 

 




Loft Bed with Built In Bookcase & Desk

Hey All,

Kids grow up way too fast for my liking. One second my daughter is all about the big comfy bed shed has and the next second, she is asking for a loft bed with a desk where she can do her school and art stuff. It all came about one lovely trip to Ikea that we recently did. We were doing the regular walk through and then my daughter spots this Metal basic frame loft bed that has a desk attachment to it. She thought it was the greatest thing ever. Keep in mind, she has a small room, a double bed pressed against a wall and her dresser only fit in it, so there is no surprise she wanted something a little more fun. When I looked at the price, I knew right away that I could build something even better for less. So, planning underway.

I found a great set of plans on Ana White that had a built-in bookcase on the one end that acts as a stronger support. However, the only thing that I did not like was the desk portion that they had. The rest I thought was great. Using these plans, I started planning what I would then do for a desk. I decided upon using these old Qube shelf units that I was going to through away as the legs for the desk and just a slab hardboard top. Using this for the top allowed me to make it more curved like the one from Ikea allowing for max amount of desk space and keeping it comfortable.

Now keep in mind that this is a big unit overall and therefore, more than likely having to be built in the room itself. However, it can be disassembled down the line if you are going to be moving at all. 

 

For those in Canada – Please use the Plan drawings for measurements on cuts as Canadian Lumber measurements are slightly different by Aprox 1/4″ in some places

For those in the U.S – You can use the measurements in the Cut List. 

 

Make sure you read through the instructions and look over the plans fully before you start your project. Check out the “Before You Start” page for more on tool information, tips & tricks. Always stay safe and wear all safety protection. It is always best to make your cuts as you go and as they say, measure twice and cut once.

If you have any questions just ask away!

CLICK HERE – FREE PRINTABLE PDF PLANS FOR THE LOFT BED WITH BIG BOOKCASE

 If you like the desk from the original plans from Ana White, you can find it here, if not, see the plans for the desk I built here.

 

Shopping List

Total Materials for Bed/Desk/Bookshelf

16 – 1″ x 3″ x 8′

3 – 1″ x 8″ x 10′

1 – 1″ x 8″ x 4′

3 – 1″ x 4″ x 8′

1 – 2″ x 2″ x 8′

13 – 1″ x 2″ x 8′

4 – 1″ x 12″ x 8′

 

 

 

1 – 4′ x 8′ piece of hardboard

1 – 5/8″ x 49″ x 97″ MDF – (If Doing the same desk as I)

1 1/4″ Screws

2″ Screws

Wood Filler

Paint

Cut List

Cut List for Loft Bed
8 – 1×3 @ 71″ ( Legs)
4 – 1×8 @ 37 1/2″ (Large Planks, Ends)
2 – 1×4 @ 37 1/2″ (Top Planks)
3 – 1×8 @ 80″ (Front and Back Rails)
1 – 1×4 @ 80″ (Top Back Rail)
2 – 1×3 @ 46 1/2″ (Back Filler Piece,)
6 – 1×3 @ 2″ (Back Filler Piece )
2 – 1×3 @ 56″ (Front Filler Pieces)
2 – 1×3 @ 7 1/2″ (Front Filler Pieces)
1 – 1×2 @ 80″ (Back, Top Piece)
2 – 1×3 @ 40 1/2″ (End, Top Pieces)
2 – 1×2 @ 75″ (Cleats)
1 – 2×2 @ 76 3/4″ (Center Support)
14 – 1×2 @ 39″ (Slats)

Cut List for Guard Rail
1 – 1×4 @ 61” (Rail)
1 – 1×2 @ 61” (Top)
3 – 1×4 @ 15” (Uprights)
6 – 1×4 @ 2” (Filler Pieces)

 

 

Ladder Cut List
2 – 1×3 @ 65 3/4″ Overall (Bottom end cut at 15 degrees off square, top at 75 degrees off square)
10 – 1×3 @ 10 3/8″ (Spacers, ends cut parallel at 15 degrees off square)
5 – 1×3 @ 12 1/2″ (Treads)
2 – 1×3 @ 10″ 

Cut List for Bookcase

2 – 1×12 @ 56″ (Sides)
5 – 1×12 @ 36″ (Shelves)
1 – 1×3 @ 36″(Footer)
4 – 1×2 @ 36″ (Shelf Trim)
4 – 1×2 @ 9″ (Optional Shelf Supports)

Cut List for Desk


Please see the plans though the link to Ana White’s site for the use of her desk plans. 

For the plans for the desk I did :

3 Double Stacked Cubed Cupboards

1 – MDF Board cut to 68″ x 40″ then trimmed down with a Jig Saw to shape. *see photo*

Tools Needed

Mitre Saw or Circular Saw

 

Jig Saw

 

Drill

 

Clamps

 

Measuring Tape

 

Pencil

 

Wood Glue

 

Sander

 

Finish Nailer

 

Wood Filler

 

Safety Glasses

 

Ear Protection

 

Gloves

 

Paint Brush

 

 

 

The Step-by-Step

You can find the Original plans for the Loft Bed here and Bookcase on here. If you like the desk that they use, you can find it here, if not, see the plans for the desk I built here.

 

The Loft Bed

First we are going to build the ends using 2” Wood Screws and Wood Glue.

Center the 37 ½” planks on the sides of the legs and screw

If you are building the Bookcase as well, the bottom plank is only needed on one end. The other end will be supported by the bookcase.

 

 

 

 With this being such a big piece of furniture, these next pieces are going to be made removable in case you ever need to move.

We are going to mark off where these rail pieces go and use a screw to temporarily hold the boards in place.

 

 

Measure out and cut the filler pieces for the back, as shown in the photo.

Use wood Glue and 1 ¼” Wood screws /Brad Nails to attach.

Note: Make sure that you do not make them to tight to the rails. There needs to be a little space for being able to remove the boards

 

We are going to do the same for the front filler pieces as we did in the back.

Measure out and cut, then use wood Glue and 1 ¼” Wood screws /Brad Nails to attach.

 

Now we are going to add the Outer Leg pieces, 1” x 3” @ 71”.

However, first we need to unscrew the rail boards we put in temporarily in step 2.

Once that has been done, with the rail boards resting in place, attach the Outer Legs pieces using 2” Wood Screws and wood glue.

**Note: Do not fasten through the rail boards

 

Now fasten the Back Top piece, 1” x 2” @ 80”, to the back legs using 2” Wood Screws. Do not use wood glue to attach this board, as it will need to be able to be removed if you have to take the bed apart to move.

This board will be flush with the back, but will have a ledge exposed in the front to attach the Top Side pieces. See the drawing below.

For the Top Side pieces (1” x 3” @ 40 ½”) you will attach them using Wood Glue and 2” Wood Screws. This will be attached  to the ledge over the back legs the flush over the front legs. As shown in the drawing.

 

The side cleats, 1” x 2” @ 75” will be fastened to the side rails, flush with the bottom edge. Use 1 ¼” Wood Screws and wood glue to attach.

The Center Cleat 2” x 2” @ 75” will be centered and flush with the bottom of the 1” x 8” Plank. Use 2” Wood screws from the outside to attach, but do not use wood glue for this support.

 

Position the slats, 1” x 2” @ 40”, with a 4” Gap in between. A quick way to lay out is to make two scrap pieces at 4” to act as spacers as you go. Attach the slats using 1 ¼” Wood screws

 

Now it’s time to build and attach the Guardrail. Use 1 ¼” Wood Screws and wood glue to assemble the unit through the side that won’t be visible. When assembled attach the guardrail to the frame again using 1 ¼” Wood screws and wood glue through the front rail.

The Ladder

Now it’s time to build the ladder for the bed! Cutting the top of the ladder (legs) is the only tricky part, the rest of the build just flies along.

The best way to cut the 2 leg boards is to cut 75 Degrees off square, leaving 15 degrees. I would definitely use a Jig Saw or Circular Saw to do this.

Next, measure down 2 ¼” from the top point and cut at a right angle (90 Degrees)

Then, measure down 65 ¾” and cut a 15 degree angle at the bottom of the leg (See the drawing below). Do this for both legs then use the top of this board as a guide to cut the 2 top filler pieces.

Construct the ladder as shown in the drawing using 1 ¼” screws  when joining the filler pieces to the side legs and 2” wood screws when attaching the treads to the leg sides. Don’t forget to use the Wood glue for all pieces.

 

To attach the ladder to the bed, use 1 ¼” wood Screws from the inside going through the bottom rail into the ladder.

 

 

The Bookcase

It’s time to big the Bookcase that will also act as support for the bed.

 

Using the 1” x 12” boards, build the frame shown below. Measure and mark the location of the shelves on both the front and back so that you are able to properly line the shelves up. This also makes it easier to know where to screw. Use 2” Wood  screws and wood glue from the outside of the frame.  If you own an Kreg Jig, you can drill pocket holes on the underside of the shelves as an alternative method.

 

Attach the footer 1” x 3” piece shown in the photo, set back ½” using 2” wood screws and glue from the side.. Again, if you are using a Kreg Jig, drill your pocket holes on the ends of the 1” x 3” and attach to the sides.

 

Cut your wood panel to size and tack on with 1” Nails. If you have a brad nailer, it makes this easier.

 

Just like when doing the footer, attach the top shelf trims the same way using 2” Wood Screws and glue or using your Kreg Jig.

 

This step is optional, but I highly recommend doing it. This keeps the top shelves from moving, and gives them that extra support. Use scrap pieces of 1” x 2” and fasten to the sides of the frame.

 

Now that the bookshelf is fully assembled, it’s time to attach it to the Loft Bed.

Using 2” Wood Screws, attach the bookshelf to the legs of the loft bed. Set it back so that it is flush with the rail up above.

 

The Desk

Lastly, if you are going to building in the desk, you would do so here. For using the original desk plans from Ana White, check the links above. If you are going to do something similar to what I did, its very simple.

I used Left of Cube Shelves that I had from IKEA as the legs. I then took a piece of MDF and cut it to size to fit in the area. While in place I marked out the curved pattern and used the jig saw to trim it to shape.

 

Finishing

Once all of this is done, its time to finish the Bed.

Fill any holes with wood filler, let dry then give it a good sand before you paint it the desired colour.

 

 

Now subscribe below to get instant emails to new posts & projects.

&

Check check me out on Pinterest too!




Rustic Mason Jar Hanging Candle Holder

Hey All,
I hope you all had a good May 2-4 weekend, sadly the weather here wasn’t too great. However, it did give me a chance to work on this next project. Here is another fun little how to for a decoration that I have used in my home, a rustic mason jar hanging candle holder. This project is similar to the Rustic Wall Hung Milk Bottle Flower Vase that I did a while back. The longest amount of time it takes for this project is truly just the drying time, which has several stages. So this can even be a project that you do in between working on other projects

Make sure you read through the instructions and look over the plans fully before you start your project. Check out the “Before You Start” page for more on tool information, tips & tricks. Always stay safe and wear all safety protection. It is always best to make your cuts as you go and as they say, measure twice and cut once.

If you have any questions just ask away!

Shopping List

Piece of Scrap wood, aprox 12” wide x 24” High

Mason Jar

Hook

Mason Jar Hanger

Picture Hanger Bracket

Dark Stain (Dark Walnut or Ebony)

Paint

Spray Paint – Black

Candle

Tools Needed


Circular Saw

 

Hammer

 

Rubber Gloves

 

Dust Mask

 

Sandpaper

 

Paint Brush

 

Shop Towels

The Step By Step

Cut the board down to the size that you want

Stain the entire board and let It dry. While you are waiting, use the spray paint to paint the hook & the Mason Jar Hanger.

Once Dry, paint the entire board and let it dry.

Lightly give the board a sand to bring through the stain colour. Concentrate on the edges and certain spots to give it a rustic look.

Attach the picture hanger to the back of the board.

Layout where you want the hook to be and screw it in by hand.

Screw the Mason Jar Lid Hanger onto the mason jar. Place Candle inside and hang.

Tip: To keep the candle in place, use a lighter to melt a bit of the bottom of the candle. Place it in the jar and hold it in place for a minute.




Rustic X Coffee Table

Hey All,

My sister-in-law just moved into a new place and decided in order to make the place more to her style, she’s having me build some of her furniture. The first piece she decided on was a coffee table. However, down the road she’ll be having other pieces built in the same look, i.e. bookcase, console table, etc.

After searching on Pinterest for ideas she decided on one in particular she loved. The Rustic X Coffee Table found on Ana White. Its actually part of the line I was looking at eventually building for myself, so I definitely enjoyed doing this build.

I did make a few small changes. On Ana White’s plans it called for a 1″ x 12″ x 8′ board to be used for the bottom shelf. In Canada, when you do manage to find that size, its pretty expensive. I ended up using 1″ x 6″ x 8′ boards instead, which were a fraction of the cost. However, doing it this way had me adjust the width of the base of the table slightly, but not a big deal in the long run.

 

Make sure you read through the instructions and look over the plans fully before you start your project. Check out the “Before You Start” page for more on tool information, tips & tricks. Always stay safe and wear all safety protection. It is always best to make your cuts as you go and as they say, measure twice and cut once.

If you have any questions just ask away!

 

CLICK HERE FOR FREE PRINTABLE PDF PLANS – RUSTIC X COFFEE TABLE 

 

Shopping List

2 – 2″ x 4″ x 8′

4 – 2″x 2″ x 8′

2 – 1″ x 6″ x 8′

5 – 2″ x 6″ x 8′

1 1/4″ Pocket Screws

2 1/2″ Pocket Screws

8 – Flat Brackets OR 4 – Corners with Screws

Spray Paint – Black 

Stain

Polyurethane

Cut List

4 – 2″ x 4″ @ 16 ½” (legs)

4 – 2″ x 2″ @ 41” (side trim)

4 – 2″ x 4″ @ 21” (end trim)

4 – 1″ x 6″ @ 41” (bottom shelf)

2 – 2″ x 2″ @ 22 ½” (both ends cut at 60 degrees off square, long point to short point, ends are parallel)

4 – 2″ x 2″ @ 11 ¼” (long point to short point, one end cut at 60 degrees off square, other end cut at 30 degrees off square, ends are not parallel but are cut in same direction)

5 – 2″ x 6″ @ 52” (tabletop boards)

Tools Needed

 

Mitre Saw

 

Sander

 

Drill

 

Kreg Jig

 

Tape Measure

 

Pencil

 

 

 

Safety Glasses

 

Ear Protection

 

Paint Brush

 

Shop Towels

 

Gloves

TABLE BASE

First, we are going to build the two sides to this table using the 2″ x 4″ x 16.5″ and the 2″ x 2″ x 41″ boards. 

A pocket hole must be drilled in each of of the 2″ x 2″ x 41″ boards, then use 2 1/2″ pocket screws to attach them. The bottom 2″ x 2″ will be 2 1/4″ up from the floor

From there we have to attach the end trim/supports to connect these sides together using the 2″ x 4″ x 21″ boards. 

Both of these boards will have 2 pocket holes on each end. Again, use 2 1/2″ pocket screws to attach.

 

For me, the bottom shelf of this table consists of 4 – 1” x 6” boards cut to 41”. Use your Kreg Jig to Drill ¾” pocket holes to attach them together with 1 ¼” pocket screws.

You will also need to drill pocket holes around the perimeter of the shelf. This is how the shelf is attached to the frame.

 

 

Constructing the X is where it can get a bit more complicated. Since I used 1” x 6” opposed to the 1” x 12” boards from Ana White’s Plans, the width of my table base changed. Therefore changing the angles and lengths of the 2” x 2” boards used to make the X.

I started with the Long piece of the X. Since the width decreased I knew that the angle was going to slightly as well. Instead of cutting the one end at 60 Degrees, I cut it to 58.5 Degrees. From there I used the actually piece and the table frame to measure out the length that piece was going to be. I also cut that end at 58.5 degrees.

I did the same thing for the small components of the X. I cut the one end to 58.5 and laid it out. The other end, butting up against the long piece was cut down to just short of 30 Degrees. Attach these boards using 2 ½” screws.

 NOTE: Before attach the X to the table base, I gave the bottom shelf and each individual component of the X a very good sand. This made it easier, as it would be very hard to sand when the X is attached.

 

THE TOP

Now comes the time to put the top together using the 5 – 2” x 8” @ 52” boards.

 Drill 1 ½” pocket holes in the boards and attach them using 2 ½” pocket screws & Wood Glue.

 Before I attached the top to the base, I gave a 4” width perimeter of the bottom side of the top a good sand. Again, it was easier to do this now than when the top is attached to the frame. Use 2 ½” Wood Screws to attach the top by going from the underside through the 2” x 2” and 2” x 4” trims/supports.

 

Now that the table is constructed it comes down to finishing it. Use your Stainable wood filler to fill any pocket holes. I also used it to fill in the gaps between the boards for my top so there is nowhere to guck to collect.

Once the wood filler has dried, its time to give it a really good sand, first with 120 Grit and then 220 also for the top.

Vacuum and wipe the table down to remove any dust before you stain & seal with polyurethane. I always do 2 coats of the polyurethane, especially on table tops as it gives that extra protection.

 

Now, once the Polyurethane has fully dried, if you are going put the metal edging on like I did, you only have a few steps to go.

Spray paint the brackets and the screws Matte Black. Once fully dried, apply a second coat, let dry.

Align and drill pilot holes before screwing the brackets in place.

 

Now subscribe below to get instant emails to new posts & projects.

&

Check check me out on Pinterest too!




Quick Closet Shelves

 

Hey All,  this is going to be a pretty short post, as the how to is pretty simple for this project. In all, it took about an hour to do this update to my closet. Like the title says, Quick Closet Shelves.

See, we have more limited storage space in our house. There are small closets, and only the ones in the bedroom and a small one by the back door. With that being said, we have always kept all of our clothes folded and in dressers, the closet was just for sweaters and my dresses. The issue was always managing to make all of the clothes fit into the dresser drawers, and when looking for something, having to really dig through to find it. As you all know, digging through a drawer ends up causing you to have to refold at least a few things. This caused a chain effect of “why bother putting the clothes away when they will get messed up and be difficult to find” which lead to piles of clothes on the dresser or still in the hamper unfolded.

I finally had enough and took off to Home Depot one morning, mid-folding. I took measurements of my closet, decided how many shelves I wanted and that was it. This project came to just over $40.00 CAD and so far has been amazing for such a small change. Even my husband is doing some of the folding.

 

Make sure you read through the instructions and look over the plans fully before you start your project. Check out the “Before You Start” page for more on tool information, tips & tricks. Always stay safe and wear all safety protection. It is always best to make your cuts as you go and as they say, measure twice and cut once.

If you have any questions just ask away!

Shopping List

3 – 5/8″ x 15 3/4″ x 96″ White Shelves

5 – 1″ x 2″ x 8′

Cut List

My closet is 47″ Wiide by 25″ deep. There is already one existing shelf in, and I want to add 6 more. 

6 – 5/8″ x 15 3/4″ @ 46 3/4″ 

6 – 1″ x 2″ @ 46 7/8″

12 – 1″ x 2″ @ 17″

Tools Needed

 

Mitre Saw / Circular Saw

 

Measuring Tape

 

Pencil

 

Level

 

 

 

Brad Nailer

 

Safety Glasses

 

Ear Protection

Step-by-Step

Fist all you need to remove the current closet rod and then measure and mark off the locations on where the shelves are going to be.  

Note: Keep in mind that the heights of where you are off are for the support locations. The thickness of the shelves will be above that. 

Identify where any studs are. Usually you can tell from the existing shelf in your closet. The support that is there for it will have either nails or screws in place. 

Install all of the 1″ x 2″  supports.  I used a brad nailer, and added more nails in the locations of the studs. Where there were no studs, I put the nails in on an Upward & Downward angle

 Starting from the top, place the shelves in. There you have it, Quick Closet Shelves! 

 

 

 

Now subscribe below to get instant emails to new posts & projects.

&

Check check me out on Pinterest too!




Farmhouse Truss Beam Bench

Hey All!

I figured it was about time to post about the matching Farmhouse Truss Beam Bench  that was made to go with the 4×4 Farmhouse table I made at Christmas. Just like the Table, this bench was scaled down from the original plans done from Shanty-2-Chic and Ana White.

I absolutely love the way it turned out and I have to say that it is a must have to get the overall effect of the Table. The other great thing about this bench is that it doesn’t have to just be made to fit in with a Dining Table. You can scale it down even more then I did and use it as a bench for an entrance way or even use it outside. 

The Original plans from this bench can be found here, and are for having the bench at 87″ in total length. However, since I scaled my dining table down to fit into my space, I also had to scale this bench down as well.  The only measurements that changed for this was the middle 4″ x 4″ beam, the 2 – 2″ x 4″ and the 2″ x 8″s used for the seating. The rest of the measurements remained the same. 

Make sure you read through the instructions and look over the plans fully before you start your project. Check out the “Before You Start” page for more on tool information, tips & tricks. Always stay safe and wear all safety protection. It is always best to make your cuts as you go and as they say, measure twice and cut once.

If you have any questions just ask away!

 

FREE PDF PRINTABLE PLANS COMING VERY SOON!

 

Shopping List

2 – 4″ x 4″ x 8′

1 – 2″ x 4″ x 12′ (can get this cut in half)

1 – 2″ x 8″ x 12′ (can get this cut in half)

1 – 2″x 10″ x 3′ (if you don’t have this laying around from scrap from the table, you can just use scrap 2″ x 8″ pieces instead)

2 1/2″ Pocket Screws

Stain

Cut List

2 – 4″ x 4″ @ 13 1/2″

4 – 4″ x 4″ @ 13 1/4″ (LONG point to LONG point, both ends cut at 10 degrees off square, parallel)

2 – 4×4 @ 8″ (LONG point to LONG point, both ends cut at 10 degrees off square NOT parallel)

1 – 4×4 @ 50″

2 – 2×4 @ 50″

2 – 2×8 @ 53.5″

2 – 2×8 @ 14 1/2″

Tools Needed

Saw

 

Measuring Tape

 

Pencil

 

Sander

 

Drill

 

Paint Brush

 

Wood Glue

Kreg Jig HD

 

Shop Towels

 

Rubber Gloves

 

Safety Glasses

 

Ear Plugs

 

Face Mask for when sanding

The Step-by-Step

Too see the plans and Step-by-Step for the full sized bench Head on over to Ana White’s post

First we are going to build the two legs using the 4″ x  4″ @ 13 1/2″, 4″ x 4″  @ 13 1/4″, and 4″ x 4″ @ 8″ & your Kreg Jig HD, Don’t forget to use your wood glue!

 

Next we are going to attach the 4″ x 4″ @ 50″ & the 2″ x 4″ @ 50″ Supports

Using the Kreg Jig, drill  1 1/2″ pocket holes in the 2″ x 8″. Using the 2 1/2″ Pocket screws attach the boards together.

Lastly, attach the top of the bench to the legs using 2 1/2″ screws from underneath through the 2″ x 4″ boards

With that done you can finish the bench the way you want to. Do not forget to give everything a very good sanding. 

 

Now subscribe below to get instant emails to new posts & projects.

&

Check check me out on Pinterest too!

 




Refinished Bedside Table

Hey all,

Here is another one of my fun curbside finds that I grabbed to refinish. This one though was a lot simpler then the cabinet we found in October. It was again in great condition and just needed a face lift to truly fit into our style.

I was thinking about chalk painting the whole thing and then just using bronze knobs to accent. However, I decided to go my usual route and stain the top instead. This of course added a bit more work but the end result is definitely worth it. This way the knobs and the top actually match.

Materials Needed

Paint

Stain

Polyurethane 

Sandpaper, 80, 120, 220

Knobs

Tools Needed

Sander

Screwdriver

The Step-By-Step

 

I started with giving the whole stand a really good cleaning to make sure nothing was on it that could effect the paint or stain finish.

Once that was done, it was time to work on the only time consuming part, sanding the coating off the top. This cabinet has a wood veneer, so essentially a very thin coating of real wood with a gloss finish over it. I used 80 grit sandpaper just to make sure that the gloss coating was off. The hardest part was sanding the routered edges. For this I had to sand by hand. Once the gloss was off, I went up to 120 grit sandpaper then 220 to finish.

I decided to paint the cabinet first, especially since I was using a caulk paint spray paint. (This way I didn’t accidentally get the  stained top with any paint) It took 2 coats of doing this, but turned out already looking like a whole new stand.

Once the paint was fully dry I started staining the top using the MiniWax Dark Walnut stain I have. After letting that sit overnight to dry I added my polyurethane top coating. For the polyurethane, I did 2 coats of it with using 220 grit sandpaper after each coat was dry.

Time for the finishing touch!!! New knobs. They are actually my go to for these projects, they look great and have a fantastic price point. They are a Richelieu Square knob in Oil Rubbed Bronze.




X Style Console Stand for $100

Hey there! As mentioned before, slowly but surely I have been putting together my husband’s man cave. It definitely is coming together now, especially with the now built TV Console stand. For the last while he has been sitting on bean bag chairs, not wanting to put his couch in. His current make shift tv stand is way to low to watch from on a couch. Let’s just say he was really happy I made this the next “to-do” project. 

I saw a post on Pinterest from a couple who built something similar as a console stand with only one shelf and being over Six Feet long. It definitely did not meet the criteria for what I was going to use it for, but I loved the look of it, so I decided to modify it to what I needed. First I took a look, and a few measurements of what would be going onto this Console Stand. From the tv itself, the Sound bar, PS4, games and movies. From there, the planning started for how I was going to build it.

Make sure you read through the instructions and look over the plans fully before you start your project. Check out the “Before You Start” page for more on tool information, tips & tricks. Always stay safe and wear all safety protection. It is always best to make your cuts as you go and as they say, measure twice and cut once.

If you have any questions just ask away!

Shopping List

12 – 1″ x 4″ x 8′ 

2 – 2″ x 4″ x 8′

5 – 2″ x 8″ x 8′

3 – 2″ x 6″ x 8′ 

1 – 1″ x 6″ x 8′

6 – 1″ x 2″ x 8′

2 – 11/16″ Cove Moulding Pieces x 8′

2″ Wood Screws

2 1/2″ Wood Screws

 

Cut List

Top

2 – 2″ x 8″ x 55″

1 – 1″ x 2″ x 55″

Base Frame 

4 – 2″ x 4″ x 47″

4 – 2″ x 4″ x 12 3/4″

4 – 2″ x 4″ x 9 3/4″

22 – 1″ x 4″ x 32″

Interior Supports & Shelves

10 – 1″ x 2″ x 8″

2 – 1″ x 2″ x 50″

4 – 1″ x 2″ x 12″

3 – 2″ x 8″ x 50″

3 – 2″ x 6″ x 50″

Trim 

1 – 1″ x 6″ x 52 7/8″  – Ripped down to 5″ W

2 – 1″ x 6″ x 13 1/2″ – Ripped down to 5″ W

2 – 1″ x 4″ x 14 1/4″

1 – 1″ x 4″ x 54 1/4″

Decorative Trim Moulding – Cove Mould

2 – 52 3/4″ – 45 Degrees not Parallel

4 – Pieces Cut to size Aprx 14 1/4″ – 45 Degrees on one end

 

Tools Needed

 

Pencil

 

Tape Measure

 

Speed Square

 

Clamps

 

Safety Glasses

 

Ear Plugs

Wood Glue

 

 

Drill

 

Mitre Saw

 

Jig Saw

 

Brad Nailer

 

Sander

 

Paint Brush

 

Shop Towels

 

Step-by-Step

Base of the Cabinet

Using the 2″ x 4″ boards, we are going to make the 2 main supports for it. Use the 4 pieces at 47″ , 4 pieces at 12 3/4″, and 4 pieces at 9 3/4. You will use 2 of each size per support.

Using the 2 1/2″ Wood Screws attach them together as so.

Next, Grab your 1″ x 4″ boards and lay them out along the back.  You will have to trim the end one slightly. 

Drill your pilot holes so that you the boards wont crack as you screw them in place. 

Use the 1 1/4″ Wood Screws to attach.

Once you have finished the back, you can move on to the sides. 

Again, one board on each will have to be trimmed slightly. 

Pre-drill pilot holes and use the 1 1/4″ Wood Screws to attach the boards. 

This is now what we have when we stand it up.

Lay in the First set of Shelf boards. I put the 2″ x 6″ board towards the back and the 2″ x 8″ Board at the front. 

From there you will measure up 8″ and This is where the shelf support will be put in. 

Grab your 1″ x 2″ boards that were cut for this and nail them in place. Do not forget to use your Wood Glue for extra Strength.

Lay the next set of shelf boards on to these supports, then repeat the process for the shelf supports & Shelf boards one more time. 

 

Time to work on all the trim pieces. 

First you will take the 1″ x 6″ board that you purchased and trim it down to 5″ to fit over the  base and bottom row of shelves. See the photo below. 

Next, Grab the 1″ x 4″ trim pieces and start covering the top frame. You will also add trim over the 5″ section you just put in as well

Once you have those two sections done, you will install all Horizontal Pieces. 

This is what you will have once all of those 4″ Trim pieces are in place. 

It’s now time to make your X.

Fist cut your long pieces with a 10 Degree angle on one end and a 10 Desgree  on the other.  Ends are Parallel

The smaller pieces are trickier with the angle. You will need a Jig saw or Hand Saw to cut these.

These ends are not Parallel to each other. See the photo Below. 

Glue and Nail these X’s in place. 

Lastly, before we attach the top, we just need to add the Decorative Cove Mould Trim Pieces to both the bottom & The Top. 

These will be mitered to 45″ Angles. 

Attach them with the Brad Nailer. 

This just gives the cabinet that extra little bit. See below. 

 

The Top

Take the 2 – 2″ x 8″ x 55″ boards and drill in your pocket holes & attach the boards using 2 1/2″ Pocket Screws. 

Take the 1″ x 2″ x 55″ Board and screw it  from the back to the back of the top to give you that extra inch that is needed.  Use 2″ Wood Screws for this. 

Now its time to attach the top and apply all the finishing touches. 

Use 2.5″ Screws to attach the top into the Bracing supports of the frame. Set the screws in deeper so that you can apply Stainable Wood Filler over them. 

Sand Away then Stain and paint as desired. 

For the look I went for I stained the top and all the edges. I did this so that after I painted the base of the cabinet I could sand the edges to give it that rustic dated look.