Side Table with a Magazine Rack & Shelf

Hey all, here is the other gift that was made for father’s day. A couch side table for my husband that has a magazine rack and shelf. The best part is how compact it is for the limited space and its custom height to fit right over the arm of the couch. It doesn’t take much to build this and can be made for under $25.00.

 

Make sure you read through the instructions and look over the plans fully before you start your project. Check out the “Before You Start” page for more on tool information, tips & tricks. Always stay safe and wear all safety protection. It is always best to make your cuts as you go and as they say, measure twice and cut once.

If you have any questions just ask away!

CLICK HERE – FREE PRINTABLE PDF PLANS 

Shopping List

1 – 1” x 6” x 8’

1 – 1” x 10” x 4’

Wood Glue

1 – 1” x 8” x 4’

1 ¼” Wood Screws

Stain-able Wood-Filler

Stain

Polyurethane

Cut List

1 – 1” x 12” @ 16” Top

1 – 1” x 8” @ 16” Bottom

2 – 1” x 6” @ 23” Sides

3 – 1” x 6” @14 ½” Shelf & Mag Front

1 – 1” x 8” @ 16” Back Of Magazine

Tools Needed

 

Circular Saw

 

Sander

 

Drill

 

Measuring Tape

 

Pencil

 

Shop Towels

 

Gloves

 

Safety Glasses

 

Ear Protection

Step-By-Step

 

First thing you will do is pre-sand the boards, otherwise you will have a hard time once the stand is built.

 

Take the 2 boards for the sides and attach both the top and bottom boards using 1 ¼” wood screws and wood glue

Build the little shelf using 2 of the 1” x 6” @ 14 ½” boards. First attach the back board then attach the bottom of the shelf. Again use 1 ¼” wood screws to attach

The last 2 boards are for the magazine rack. The large 1” x 8” board will be the back piece (going against the couch) The smaller is for the front. Use the 1 ¼” wood screws to attach

All that is left is to finish. Fill with stain-able wood filler, Give another sand, stain and apply your polyurethane.

 

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Watering Hose Post for under $20

It’s the perfect time of year to get any of those outdoor projects that have been put off finally finished. For myself its sprucing up the front yard and there is endless amounts to do in the backyard. The one big thing my front yard needed is a spot to hang the watering hose. Its connection is in the garage, which is normally where the hose would be hung. However, it gets used so often that it never seems to make it back to the spot in the garage. So, the first outdoor project this year was the Watering Hose Post!

I decided to take some of the extra scrap pieces I had lying around and make a freestanding post for it and I’m pretty happy with the result. It adds some curb appeal while making it more functional. The hose is actually being hung up again.

Make sure you read through the instructions and look over the plans fully before you start your project. Check out the “Before You Start” page for more on tool information, tips & tricks. Always stay safe and wear all safety protection. It is always best to make your cuts as you go and as they say, measure twice and cut once.
If you have any questions just ask away!

Shopping List

1 – 4″x4″x8′ Fence post

1 – Scrap Piece of 2″x6″ x 6″

2 1/2″ Screws – Pocket Screws if using Kreg Jig

1 – Basic Hose Hanger 

 

Stain

Polyurethane

 

 

Cut List

Dimensions can change if you are looking to make the Post Taller

1 – 2″ x 6″ @ 5 1/2″ – Top Piece

1 – 4″ x 4″ @ 3′

2 – 4″ x 4″ @ 8″

Tools Needed

Circular Saw

Drill

Kreg Jig

Tape Measure

 

Pencil

Safety Glasses

Ear Protection

Step-by-Step

After you have made all the necessary cuts for this build, we will start by making the base. If you have

Using the 3 pieces of 4″ x 4″ cut at 11″, attach them together using pocket holes, or just screw in from an angle.  

Next, we will attach the post to the base using the same method of using pocket holes. 

Attach the top 2″ x 6″ piece to the top of the post by screwing directly from the top of the board. Another option, is you can buy one of the decorative fence post toppers to use on top. 

Now comes the time to stain and seal the wood and allow it to fully dry before you attach the Hose Hanger

Place it where you want and there you go!, 

 

 

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Loft Bed with Built In Bookcase & Desk

Hey All,

Kids grow up way too fast for my liking. One second my daughter is all about the big comfy bed shed has and the next second, she is asking for a loft bed with a desk where she can do her school and art stuff. It all came about one lovely trip to Ikea that we recently did. We were doing the regular walk through and then my daughter spots this Metal basic frame loft bed that has a desk attachment to it. She thought it was the greatest thing ever. Keep in mind, she has a small room, a double bed pressed against a wall and her dresser only fit in it, so there is no surprise she wanted something a little more fun. When I looked at the price, I knew right away that I could build something even better for less. So, planning underway.

I found a great set of plans on Ana White that had a built-in bookcase on the one end that acts as a stronger support. However, the only thing that I did not like was the desk portion that they had. The rest I thought was great. Using these plans, I started planning what I would then do for a desk. I decided upon using these old Qube shelf units that I was going to through away as the legs for the desk and just a slab hardboard top. Using this for the top allowed me to make it more curved like the one from Ikea allowing for max amount of desk space and keeping it comfortable.

Now keep in mind that this is a big unit overall and therefore, more than likely having to be built in the room itself. However, it can be disassembled down the line if you are going to be moving at all. 

 

For those in Canada – Please use the Plan drawings for measurements on cuts as Canadian Lumber measurements are slightly different by Aprox 1/4″ in some places

For those in the U.S – You can use the measurements in the Cut List. 

 

Make sure you read through the instructions and look over the plans fully before you start your project. Check out the “Before You Start” page for more on tool information, tips & tricks. Always stay safe and wear all safety protection. It is always best to make your cuts as you go and as they say, measure twice and cut once.

If you have any questions just ask away!

CLICK HERE – FREE PRINTABLE PDF PLANS FOR THE LOFT BED WITH BIG BOOKCASE

 If you like the desk from the original plans from Ana White, you can find it here, if not, see the plans for the desk I built here.

 

Shopping List

Total Materials for Bed/Desk/Bookshelf

16 – 1″ x 3″ x 8′

3 – 1″ x 8″ x 10′

1 – 1″ x 8″ x 4′

3 – 1″ x 4″ x 8′

1 – 2″ x 2″ x 8′

13 – 1″ x 2″ x 8′

4 – 1″ x 12″ x 8′

 

 

 

1 – 4′ x 8′ piece of hardboard

1 – 5/8″ x 49″ x 97″ MDF – (If Doing the same desk as I)

1 1/4″ Screws

2″ Screws

Wood Filler

Paint

Cut List

Cut List for Loft Bed
8 – 1×3 @ 71″ ( Legs)
4 – 1×8 @ 37 1/2″ (Large Planks, Ends)
2 – 1×4 @ 37 1/2″ (Top Planks)
3 – 1×8 @ 80″ (Front and Back Rails)
1 – 1×4 @ 80″ (Top Back Rail)
2 – 1×3 @ 46 1/2″ (Back Filler Piece,)
6 – 1×3 @ 2″ (Back Filler Piece )
2 – 1×3 @ 56″ (Front Filler Pieces)
2 – 1×3 @ 7 1/2″ (Front Filler Pieces)
1 – 1×2 @ 80″ (Back, Top Piece)
2 – 1×3 @ 40 1/2″ (End, Top Pieces)
2 – 1×2 @ 75″ (Cleats)
1 – 2×2 @ 76 3/4″ (Center Support)
14 – 1×2 @ 39″ (Slats)

Cut List for Guard Rail
1 – 1×4 @ 61” (Rail)
1 – 1×2 @ 61” (Top)
3 – 1×4 @ 15” (Uprights)
6 – 1×4 @ 2” (Filler Pieces)

 

 

Ladder Cut List
2 – 1×3 @ 65 3/4″ Overall (Bottom end cut at 15 degrees off square, top at 75 degrees off square)
10 – 1×3 @ 10 3/8″ (Spacers, ends cut parallel at 15 degrees off square)
5 – 1×3 @ 12 1/2″ (Treads)
2 – 1×3 @ 10″ 

Cut List for Bookcase

2 – 1×12 @ 56″ (Sides)
5 – 1×12 @ 36″ (Shelves)
1 – 1×3 @ 36″(Footer)
4 – 1×2 @ 36″ (Shelf Trim)
4 – 1×2 @ 9″ (Optional Shelf Supports)

Cut List for Desk


Please see the plans though the link to Ana White’s site for the use of her desk plans. 

For the plans for the desk I did :

3 Double Stacked Cubed Cupboards

1 – MDF Board cut to 68″ x 40″ then trimmed down with a Jig Saw to shape. *see photo*

Tools Needed

Mitre Saw or Circular Saw

 

Jig Saw

 

Drill

 

Clamps

 

Measuring Tape

 

Pencil

 

Wood Glue

 

Sander

 

Finish Nailer

 

Wood Filler

 

Safety Glasses

 

Ear Protection

 

Gloves

 

Paint Brush

 

 

 

The Step-by-Step

You can find the Original plans for the Loft Bed here and Bookcase on here. If you like the desk that they use, you can find it here, if not, see the plans for the desk I built here.

 

The Loft Bed

First we are going to build the ends using 2” Wood Screws and Wood Glue.

Center the 37 ½” planks on the sides of the legs and screw

If you are building the Bookcase as well, the bottom plank is only needed on one end. The other end will be supported by the bookcase.

 

 

 

 With this being such a big piece of furniture, these next pieces are going to be made removable in case you ever need to move.

We are going to mark off where these rail pieces go and use a screw to temporarily hold the boards in place.

 

 

Measure out and cut the filler pieces for the back, as shown in the photo.

Use wood Glue and 1 ¼” Wood screws /Brad Nails to attach.

Note: Make sure that you do not make them to tight to the rails. There needs to be a little space for being able to remove the boards

 

We are going to do the same for the front filler pieces as we did in the back.

Measure out and cut, then use wood Glue and 1 ¼” Wood screws /Brad Nails to attach.

 

Now we are going to add the Outer Leg pieces, 1” x 3” @ 71”.

However, first we need to unscrew the rail boards we put in temporarily in step 2.

Once that has been done, with the rail boards resting in place, attach the Outer Legs pieces using 2” Wood Screws and wood glue.

**Note: Do not fasten through the rail boards

 

Now fasten the Back Top piece, 1” x 2” @ 80”, to the back legs using 2” Wood Screws. Do not use wood glue to attach this board, as it will need to be able to be removed if you have to take the bed apart to move.

This board will be flush with the back, but will have a ledge exposed in the front to attach the Top Side pieces. See the drawing below.

For the Top Side pieces (1” x 3” @ 40 ½”) you will attach them using Wood Glue and 2” Wood Screws. This will be attached  to the ledge over the back legs the flush over the front legs. As shown in the drawing.

 

The side cleats, 1” x 2” @ 75” will be fastened to the side rails, flush with the bottom edge. Use 1 ¼” Wood Screws and wood glue to attach.

The Center Cleat 2” x 2” @ 75” will be centered and flush with the bottom of the 1” x 8” Plank. Use 2” Wood screws from the outside to attach, but do not use wood glue for this support.

 

Position the slats, 1” x 2” @ 40”, with a 4” Gap in between. A quick way to lay out is to make two scrap pieces at 4” to act as spacers as you go. Attach the slats using 1 ¼” Wood screws

 

Now it’s time to build and attach the Guardrail. Use 1 ¼” Wood Screws and wood glue to assemble the unit through the side that won’t be visible. When assembled attach the guardrail to the frame again using 1 ¼” Wood screws and wood glue through the front rail.

The Ladder

Now it’s time to build the ladder for the bed! Cutting the top of the ladder (legs) is the only tricky part, the rest of the build just flies along.

The best way to cut the 2 leg boards is to cut 75 Degrees off square, leaving 15 degrees. I would definitely use a Jig Saw or Circular Saw to do this.

Next, measure down 2 ¼” from the top point and cut at a right angle (90 Degrees)

Then, measure down 65 ¾” and cut a 15 degree angle at the bottom of the leg (See the drawing below). Do this for both legs then use the top of this board as a guide to cut the 2 top filler pieces.

Construct the ladder as shown in the drawing using 1 ¼” screws  when joining the filler pieces to the side legs and 2” wood screws when attaching the treads to the leg sides. Don’t forget to use the Wood glue for all pieces.

 

To attach the ladder to the bed, use 1 ¼” wood Screws from the inside going through the bottom rail into the ladder.

 

 

The Bookcase

It’s time to big the Bookcase that will also act as support for the bed.

 

Using the 1” x 12” boards, build the frame shown below. Measure and mark the location of the shelves on both the front and back so that you are able to properly line the shelves up. This also makes it easier to know where to screw. Use 2” Wood  screws and wood glue from the outside of the frame.  If you own an Kreg Jig, you can drill pocket holes on the underside of the shelves as an alternative method.

 

Attach the footer 1” x 3” piece shown in the photo, set back ½” using 2” wood screws and glue from the side.. Again, if you are using a Kreg Jig, drill your pocket holes on the ends of the 1” x 3” and attach to the sides.

 

Cut your wood panel to size and tack on with 1” Nails. If you have a brad nailer, it makes this easier.

 

Just like when doing the footer, attach the top shelf trims the same way using 2” Wood Screws and glue or using your Kreg Jig.

 

This step is optional, but I highly recommend doing it. This keeps the top shelves from moving, and gives them that extra support. Use scrap pieces of 1” x 2” and fasten to the sides of the frame.

 

Now that the bookshelf is fully assembled, it’s time to attach it to the Loft Bed.

Using 2” Wood Screws, attach the bookshelf to the legs of the loft bed. Set it back so that it is flush with the rail up above.

 

The Desk

Lastly, if you are going to building in the desk, you would do so here. For using the original desk plans from Ana White, check the links above. If you are going to do something similar to what I did, its very simple.

I used Left of Cube Shelves that I had from IKEA as the legs. I then took a piece of MDF and cut it to size to fit in the area. While in place I marked out the curved pattern and used the jig saw to trim it to shape.

 

Finishing

Once all of this is done, its time to finish the Bed.

Fill any holes with wood filler, let dry then give it a good sand before you paint it the desired colour.

 

 

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Quick Closet Shelves

 

Hey All,  this is going to be a pretty short post, as the how to is pretty simple for this project. In all, it took about an hour to do this update to my closet. Like the title says, Quick Closet Shelves.

See, we have more limited storage space in our house. There are small closets, and only the ones in the bedroom and a small one by the back door. With that being said, we have always kept all of our clothes folded and in dressers, the closet was just for sweaters and my dresses. The issue was always managing to make all of the clothes fit into the dresser drawers, and when looking for something, having to really dig through to find it. As you all know, digging through a drawer ends up causing you to have to refold at least a few things. This caused a chain effect of “why bother putting the clothes away when they will get messed up and be difficult to find” which lead to piles of clothes on the dresser or still in the hamper unfolded.

I finally had enough and took off to Home Depot one morning, mid-folding. I took measurements of my closet, decided how many shelves I wanted and that was it. This project came to just over $40.00 CAD and so far has been amazing for such a small change. Even my husband is doing some of the folding.

 

Make sure you read through the instructions and look over the plans fully before you start your project. Check out the “Before You Start” page for more on tool information, tips & tricks. Always stay safe and wear all safety protection. It is always best to make your cuts as you go and as they say, measure twice and cut once.

If you have any questions just ask away!

Shopping List

3 – 5/8″ x 15 3/4″ x 96″ White Shelves

5 – 1″ x 2″ x 8′

Cut List

My closet is 47″ Wiide by 25″ deep. There is already one existing shelf in, and I want to add 6 more. 

6 – 5/8″ x 15 3/4″ @ 46 3/4″ 

6 – 1″ x 2″ @ 46 7/8″

12 – 1″ x 2″ @ 17″

Tools Needed

 

Mitre Saw / Circular Saw

 

Measuring Tape

 

Pencil

 

Level

 

 

 

Brad Nailer

 

Safety Glasses

 

Ear Protection

Step-by-Step

Fist all you need to remove the current closet rod and then measure and mark off the locations on where the shelves are going to be.  

Note: Keep in mind that the heights of where you are off are for the support locations. The thickness of the shelves will be above that. 

Identify where any studs are. Usually you can tell from the existing shelf in your closet. The support that is there for it will have either nails or screws in place. 

Install all of the 1″ x 2″  supports.  I used a brad nailer, and added more nails in the locations of the studs. Where there were no studs, I put the nails in on an Upward & Downward angle

 Starting from the top, place the shelves in. There you have it, Quick Closet Shelves! 

 

 

 

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DIY Workbench for Under $70

A workbench is one of those “must-haves” when doing any sort of wood working. It does not have to be large, but you want to have enough space to do any clamping or sanding. The main key overall, is to have the bench be sturdy and functional.

For the longest time, my workbench consisted of an old bathroom cabinet and just had a piece of plywood for a top. It had worked for the time being, it was something at least. However, it wasn’t very sturdy, nor was I able to clamp anything to it. I think the worst thing, that really drove me insane was the lack of organization with it. Everything in the cabinet was hard to find!

Finally, I started taking the steps to get the organization in the garage that I wanted! The first thing, taking a hammer and destroying the already falling apart vanity cabinet.

Slowly but surely I have been making the storage systems that I have wanted, most of it out of scrap wood. I’ll do another post soon giving a tour of my workshop/garage, but for now here is the How-to on a nice sturdy workbench. I made my bench 8′ long, but feel free to downsize for your own needs! Always just make sure that the leg spread is as large as possible to get give the most solid frame.

This DIY Tutorial is based upon my second workbench. My first bench, is identical to this however the top is made of 2″x3″x8’s instead, which weighs quite a bit more, and only costs slightly more. Both of my workbenches are 8′ long, so just size and cut down yours according to what will be more functional for you.

Supplies Needed

6 – 2″x 4″x8′
12 – 2″x 2″x8′
8 – Hex Bolts
16- Washer
8 – Nuts
Wood Glue
Screws

Tools Needed

imgres-2Drill & Screw Bit

drill-bitsDrill Bit – To drill the holes for the Lag Bolts

clampClamps

54925d4f86df17dc1e4b17e6777bc986Saw

socketSocket Set

pliersPliers

images-2Measuring Tape

images-1Pencil

imgres-1Safety Glasses

imgresWork Gloves
Step By Step How To

1. The first thing you are going to do is glue the 2x2s together and clamp them thus ensuring that I got a good adhesion and that the boards were as level and flush as they could be. If you don’t have a flat table to do this on, clean off a large area of floor space and do it on there.  I glued the boards together one at a time. This way is more time-consuming but ensures that straightest top. I allowed 20 minutes for each piece to have the glue to cure before I went on to the next piece. The good thing about this is that you do not need to sit around twiddling your thumbs, you can prep and get the base ready while you are making the top.
20161014_192405

2. Its time to get the legs ready. Figure out the height that you want your bench to be; For me it was 38″. Plan accordingly to account for the thickness of your top. 2″x2″ boards are actually 1.5″ x 1.5″ therefore my legs would have to be 36.5″ to get me the 38″ Height.

3. Measure and cut your 2x4s for the legs. You will need 2 pieces of 2″x4″ for each leg.

4. Clamp the 2 cut boards together ensuring that they are flush on all sides. You are now going to drill your holes for the Hex Bolts. You want the Drill Bit you use to be just slightly larger then the hex bolt. Now measure out where you want to have the holes to be located. I placed them at 6″ from the bottom and 9 inches from the top.

5. Once your holes are drilled you are going to unclamp the boards and put wood glue in between them. Put the boards back together and re-clamp, again ensuring that they are flush. Now you are going to put the Hex bolts in with making sure there is a washer on both sides against the 2″x4″s then tighten with the nuts.

20161014_193541

6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 for each legs.

7. This is where we are going to use the extra 2x4s we have to attach the front legs together and the back set of legs together. I wanted an 6″ overhang on the ends with my table so I cut my 2 boards down to 7′.

8. Laying the 2 front legs on the ground I screwed the 7′ 2″x4″ to them, then repeated the step with the back legs.

20161014_193722

9. Now is the time to attach the front and back legs together. Your top should be 17.5″ wide in total, and you do not want too much of an overhang in the font and the back. Note: remember larger leg span means sturdier workbench. I decided that the total width should be 17″ leaving a 1/4″ overhang in the front and back. Measure and cut the piece out for this and screw it in.

20161014_194744

10. You also need to put in a blocking piece just above the bottom Hex Bolts on the legs to give the legs support down there. This is where the left over cut pieces are going to come into play. With 17″ total you need, minus the front & back trim and the legs thus leaving you with an 8″ piece on either side. Screw and attach this board in, however you may need to counter sink it since you are going through 2 pieces of 2″x4″s (legs)

10. Here is the last step for preparing the base. You are going to be screwing the top to the base later, but you will need blocking pieces to do so. You need to measure out the distance between the front and back trim pieces and cut and screw the blocking about a 1/3 of the way in on either side. Small pieces needed at the ends as well. See photo.

20161014_195612

11. You also need to put in a blocking piece just above the bottom Hex Bolts on the legs to give the legs support down there. Now, this is where the left over cut pieces are going to come into play. With 17″ total you need to minus the front & back trim and the legs. This should leave you with an 8″ piece on either side. Screw and attach this board in, however you may need to counter sink it since you are going through 2 pieces of 2″x4″s (legs)

20161014_200324

12. Now that the base is ready to go, your top should be as well. Next, place the top on the base and measure to insure it is even on all sides.

20161014_200829

13. From underneath you are going to screw the blocking to the top (NOTE: remember to use screws that are only about 1.5″, so you don’t go through the top)

14. If you want you can give your workbench a light sanding to make sure there are no rough points, however it isn’t needed.

 

– Michelle

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