House Number Cedar Planter Box

Hi Everyone! With the weather doing such a flip here in the last 2 weeks (from a crazy ice storm to 27’C) I decided that I’m going to put the Office Series on hold for the moment and concentrate on the good stuff since spring has truly arrived.. the outdoor build series! Last year I had kicked off this series with the Pallet Wood Shed & the Watering Hose Post but this year I’ll start off small for now with the House Number Cedar Planter Box.


In the last week I have been doing some big projects in my backyard and in the front of my house as it has been too nice to be cooped up inside. The other morning while doing some landscaping around the tree out front, I was looking at how faded and dingy my house number had become. They definitely needed to be re-painting as you can see.


Now that got me thinking, why not do something a little different that is more eye catching. So this is what I came up with….

Keep in mind, that you don’t have to buy new house numbers, a fresh coat of paint can give them a whole new look. 


Have Fun & Happy Building! 


Make sure you read through the instructions and look over the plans fully before you start your project. Check out the “Before You Start” page for more on tool information, tips & tricks. Always stay safe and wear all safety protection. It is always best to make your cuts as you go and as they say, measure twice and cut once. 

If you have any questions just ask away! 

Shopping List

2 – 1″ x 6″ x 6′ Cedar boards

1 1/4″ Brad Nails 

1″ Pocket Screws


Clear Coat – For outdoor use

House Numbers – If not using existing

Spray Paint

Landscape Fabric – Optional 




For Mounting: 

Tap Cons – 1/4″ x 1 3/4″ with Hex head is what I used

Concrete bit (if its not included with Tap Cons  

Cut List

2 – 1″ x 6″ @36″ – BACK 

2 – 1″ x 6″ @ 5 1/4″ PLANTER SIDES

1 – 1″ x 6″ @ 10 1/2″ PLANTER FRONT

1 – 1″ x 6″ @ 9 1/4″ PLANTER BOTTOM

Tools Needed


Circular Saw


Brad Nailer


Measuring tape






Drill & 3/8″ Bit


Kreg Jig


Wood Glue




Paint Brush


Shop Towels


Safety Glasses


Ear Protection



Step-by-Step – Assembly

If you are going to use your existing numbers, take them down, clean them and then refresh them with a coat of spray paint.


Use the Kreg-Jig to drill 5/8″ Pocket holes into one of the BACK boards.


Using 1″ Pocket Screws and Wood glue, attach the 2 BACK boards together.


Use the Brad Nailer and 1 1/4″ Brad Nails with wood glue to attach the 2 PLANTER SIDES to the PLANTER FRONT board. 


Use the same process to attach the PLANTER BOTTOM board to the FRONT & SIDE boards

Drill 3 Holes (3/8″) into the bottom of the PLanter to allow for drainage. 


The planter can now be attached to the BACK boards. Use wood glue and 1 1/4″ brad nails to do so. 


Step-by-Step Finishing

Give the project a good sand before you stain and apply the clear coat

Tip: Don’t forget to use the clear coat that is meant for outdoor use.


Once it has dried, lay out and attach the house numbers. 

Make sure to give equal spacing in between each number. 


This step is optional, but I find that it helps to :

1) Keep the dirt from going out the drainage holes 

2) Keeping the Soil from making direct contact with the wood


Cut a piece of Landscape fabric and staple it to the interior of the box. 

Step-by-Step – Mounting

To mount the House Number Cedar Box, I used 4 TapCons that were 1/4″ x 1 3/4″ with a Hex Head.

First, I pre-drilled 4 holes with a wood drill bit into the BACK board, one on each of the four corners. 

Switching to the concrete bit I used the 4 Pre-drilled holes as a template and drilled into the Brick deep enough to allow for the length of the Tap Con

Next, hand the planter using the TapCons

Finally, you can add the soil and flowers.

Take a Step back and admire your work!



I hope you had fun will this build. Share your project and let me know how it went! 


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Watering Hose Post for under $20

It’s the perfect time of year to get any of those outdoor projects that have been put off finally finished. For myself its sprucing up the front yard and there is endless amounts to do in the backyard. The one big thing my front yard needed is a spot to hang the watering hose. Its connection is in the garage, which is normally where the hose would be hung. However, it gets used so often that it never seems to make it back to the spot in the garage. So, the first outdoor project this year was the Watering Hose Post!

I decided to take some of the extra scrap pieces I had lying around and make a freestanding post for it and I’m pretty happy with the result. It adds some curb appeal while making it more functional. The hose is actually being hung up again.

Make sure you read through the instructions and look over the plans fully before you start your project. Check out the “Before You Start” page for more on tool information, tips & tricks. Always stay safe and wear all safety protection. It is always best to make your cuts as you go and as they say, measure twice and cut once.
If you have any questions just ask away!

Shopping List

1 – 4″x4″x8′ Fence post

1 – Scrap Piece of 2″x6″ x 6″

2 1/2″ Screws – Pocket Screws if using Kreg Jig

1 – Basic Hose Hanger 






Cut List

Dimensions can change if you are looking to make the Post Taller

1 – 2″ x 6″ @ 5 1/2″ – Top Piece

1 – 4″ x 4″ @ 3′

2 – 4″ x 4″ @ 8″

Tools Needed

Circular Saw


Kreg Jig

Tape Measure



Safety Glasses

Ear Protection


After you have made all the necessary cuts for this build, we will start by making the base. If you have

Using the 3 pieces of 4″ x 4″ cut at 11″, attach them together using pocket holes, or just screw in from an angle.  

Next, we will attach the post to the base using the same method of using pocket holes. 

Attach the top 2″ x 6″ piece to the top of the post by screwing directly from the top of the board. Another option, is you can buy one of the decorative fence post toppers to use on top. 

Now comes the time to stain and seal the wood and allow it to fully dry before you attach the Hose Hanger

Place it where you want and there you go!, 



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DIY Pallet Wood Shed for Nothing!

DIY Pallet Wood Shed

Building a Wood Shed out of pallets is a inexpensive DIY project, but does take a fair amount of time. The disassembly of the pallets is the most time consuming part, but it is worth the extra time. Why you may ask? Well. this project didn’t cost me anything in materials. You can find companies tossing pallets all over the place, it just means a scavenger hunt. The only thing you would really need to purchase would be screws if you do not already have any and shingles if you can’t find any for free. The shingles I used, I got from going to a person’s house in my neighborhood where they were getting their roof redone. The guys doing the work saved some of the shingles they were taking off and let me have them.

Tools Needed
54925d4f86df17dc1e4b17e6777bc986Circular Saw
imgres-2Drill & Screw Bit
images-2Measuring Tape
imgres-1Safety Glasses

The How To:

1. First of all, you are going to need to go on that scavenger hunt looking for the pallets that will work for this project. I made sure that I made sure that I found 2 identical strong pallets for the base because all your weight will be on those. Also you want to find pallets which had 2×4’s for the main legs that were 69″ in length because these 2×4’s are needed for the main walls of the shed. (See the image in Step 4 for good pallets for the base)

2. Once you have found the pallets, it’s time to take them apart. There are tools out there that were made specifically for this job (its essential a pry bar) . I still use a good old hammer though, saves me the money of having to buy this tool until I find i’m going to use it often enough. However, if you do want to purchase one it it is about $100.00 plus shipping.  Keep in mind that as a result of using the hammer instead you will break some of the weaker boards that are nailed really well, sadly its just unavoidable.

3. Level out where you are going to put your Wood Shed therefore ensuring a good firm base.

4. Once you have your area leveled out attach your 2 base pallets with a Piece of 2×4 and lay it out in place.20160928_154214_resized_1

3. Build up your 6 Support Wall Studs. Three in the back of the shed and three in the front.


4. Make the start to your roof Using 2×4’s in between the studs, as well as the the frame on one side for the Kindling Shelf.


5. Next you want to attach the Roof slats, kindling shelf slates, and the face trim around the rood

6. Use 2×4’s as Diagonal supports between the studs. As a result you will notice a huge difference in strength of the shed after doing this.


7. Finally its time to Use the slats up the walls.


8. I recommend looking for shingles to use or spending the approx $15.00 and buy a bundle of them because they will make it that much more water resistant.


Finally, there you have it! You’re all done but most of all, it probably didn’t cost you anything or so very little.