Refinished Bedside Table

Hey all,

Here is another one of my fun curbside finds that I grabbed to refinish. This one though was a lot simpler then the cabinet we found in October. It was again in great condition and just needed a face lift to truly fit into our style.

I was thinking about chalk painting the whole thing and then just using bronze knobs to accent. However, I decided to go my usual route and stain the top instead. This of course added a bit more work but the end result is definitely worth it. This way the knobs and the top actually match.

Materials Needed

Paint

Stain

Polyurethane 

Sandpaper, 80, 120, 220

Knobs

Tools Needed

Sander

Screwdriver

The Step-By-Step

 

I started with giving the whole stand a really good cleaning to make sure nothing was on it that could effect the paint or stain finish.

Once that was done, it was time to work on the only time consuming part, sanding the coating off the top. This cabinet has a wood veneer, so essentially a very thin coating of real wood with a gloss finish over it. I used 80 grit sandpaper just to make sure that the gloss coating was off. The hardest part was sanding the routered edges. For this I had to sand by hand. Once the gloss was off, I went up to 120 grit sandpaper then 220 to finish.

I decided to paint the cabinet first, especially since I was using a caulk paint spray paint. (This way I didn’t accidentally get the  stained top with any paint) It took 2 coats of doing this, but turned out already looking like a whole new stand.

Once the paint was fully dry I started staining the top using the MiniWax Dark Walnut stain I have. After letting that sit overnight to dry I added my polyurethane top coating. For the polyurethane, I did 2 coats of it with using 220 grit sandpaper after each coat was dry.

Time for the finishing touch!!! New knobs. They are actually my go to for these projects, they look great and have a fantastic price point. They are a Richelieu Square knob in Oil Rubbed Bronze.




DIY Installing New Interior Doors

I don’t know about you all, but the interior doors in my house are all past their prime. They are all original to the house. In a lot of cases this wouldn’t be a bad thing because a lot of older doors are absolutely beautiful. However, my house was built in the era where there was no added detailing put in and things were done as cheaply as possibly. With this era, I have plain hollow core slab doors on the bathroom and bedrooms. All of which no added paint can make look good again. I was thinking of adding some detailing to the doors using trim pieces, but sadly the doors are all actually falling apart. Two doors have actually splintered away/cracked where as one door has actually caved in where the handle is. In a nutshell, they really needed to go!

It was actually luck the other day when looking at the flyers that the interior doors were 25% off. I went out right away and purchased 3 of the basic 6-paneled hollow-core slab doors. The doors however do not come pre-bored for the handles, nor do they have the hinges notched out. That is where this post comes into play. Here I am going to give you the step by step on what you need to do to install your own new doors. It is truly not as based as you think!

 

Tools Needed:

marples-construction-chisel-1455

 

Chisels

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Drill

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Irwin Door Lock Installation Kit  – (Note: However, Ryobi has recently come out with one as well, that I find is better made and wish I had)

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Pencil

paint-brush

 

Paint Brush

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Measuring Tape

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Safety Glasses

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Work Gloves

 

Materials Needed

Interior Doors

Paint

Door handles/hinges – You are absolutely able to re-use your existing ones, I certainly did.

 

The How-To:

1. The first thing you need to do is determine the size of the doors that you need (Usually they are in widths of 28″-30″-32″ x 78″-80″ in length) Once that has been determined you can go out and purchase your doors.

Doors - BEFORE
Doors – BEFORE

 

2. Now, remove your old doors, and measure and record the location of the the hinges and the door handle. Measure this distance from the top of the door because if you measure from the bottom you can end up with a large gap OR the door not fit into place. (example: My hinges are 7-10″ and 67 7/16″-70 7/16″ from the top and my handle is 44″OC from the top)

3. Now, on your new door you are going to measure and mark off where the hinges are going to be and then chisel it out. You can use one of your hinges as you go along to ensure it is done right. Note: If you have 3″ hinges like myself,  the template that comes with the kit will not be able to be used due to it being for 3.5″ hinges. 

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4. Next you need to  determine if your door handles are at 2 3/8″ or 2 3/4″ setback. The majority of door installations however will be at the 2 3/8″. In order to determine which setback that you have, you just need to measure from the side of your door to the Center of the hole for your existing door handle. However if you have purchased new door handles for this, it will be noted in the instructions.

5. Once you have made that determination, set your Irwin guide to the particular setting and screw it in place. Using the hole saw bit that came with the kit you are going to first drill out the handle holes, afterwards you can then switch out the hole saws and do the latch side

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6. Now that you have your holes in place remove the guide and put the router latch guide on the side. Next, switch out the hole saw for the router bit and router out the template. Remove the template and use the chisel to remove the excess material, now making it flush.

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7. Next, you are going to paint the doors using more than likely 2-3 coats of paint.

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8. Lastly, you are going to attach the hinges and the door handles to the door. Finally, you are now set to re-attach the doors to the frame.

door-finished

 

– Michelle

 

 

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Curbside Cabinet Find – Refinished

A month ago, on one of our nightly dog walks we stumbled across a nice curbside find – a Cabinet in good condition that just needed to be  refinished. As you can tell though, it sat in our garage for a month until I could truly decide on what I wanted to do with it. I’d say that making that decision was the hardest part of doing this this project.

I was all set to go once I had picked my cabinet colour (the same colour that I ended up paint my 2 accent walls)

Make sure you read through the instructions and look over the plans fully before you start your project. Check out the “Before You Start” page for more on tool information, tips & tricks. Always stay safe and wear all safety protection. It is always best to make your cuts as you go and as they say, measure twice and cut once.

If you have any questions just ask away!

Tools I Needed:

m000024037_sc7Rubber Mallet

dewalt-d26456-5-inchSander

imgres-2Drill and Screw Bit

imgresWork or Rubber Gloves – so I don’t stain or paint my hands – Rubber gloves you can dispose of after staining

paint-brushPaintbrushes, a bristle brush to paint, and a sponge brush to stain

61t9tt1v76l-_sy355_Finish Nailer

shoptowelShop Towels

Materials  I Needed

Paint

Stain

New hardware

Steps to Refinish the Cabinet

  1. First I took off the hardware, removed the drawers, unscrewed the hutch.
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  2. Next I took of the back panel of the hutch. I used the rubber mallet because it would be the easiest to ensure that I do not damage the panel
  3. I sanded everything down enough to get the top clear coat to allow the paint to stick.
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  4. The top and the back panel I sanded all the existing stain off in order to be able to re-stain the cabinet.
  5. I put the coat of stain on the top and back panel, allowing it to sit before I wiped off the excess with a paper towel.
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  6. I painted the cabinet, and hutch, making sure to get all the visible spots. However, since I was going for a more distressed look, I allowed some of my brush strokes to show by using a lot of paint for coverage.
  7. Once the paint had died, I used a fine coarse sandpaper on the edges and creases of the cabinet. I did this because it allows the old colour to come through the paint making it more distressed.
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  8. The next thing to do it to put the back panel back on the hutch using the finishing nail gun.
  9. Lastly, it was time to reassemble the cabinet. I put the drawers back in the cabinet with the new hardware and then re-screwed in the hutch to the cabinet.

My end result came out better than I had hoped, which was a great feeling. I was able to take something I had found and give it a new and refreshing look for such a minimal cost.

– Michelle

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