Tag: plans - This DIY Home

X Brace Console Table

Hey guys, this build was something that was desperately needed in my house. I have 2 massive windows at the front of the house that are only a foot and a half off the floor. The one window is directly in the straight path of the hallway that runs down the length of my house. Now, take 2 big dogs + hardwood Floors and you get 2 dogs that don’t stop when they decide they want to see what is outside. Needless to say I have a huge head size hole in the screen. To avoid this the windows have to stay closed at all times, which I don’t want to do. Which brings me to this build… I decided to build an X Console Table to fit in front of these windows that will keep my boys from getting to it, and allowing me to open the windows again without the fear of them going through.

 

Make sure you read through the instructions and look over the plans fully before you start your project. Check out the “Before You Start” page for more on tool information, tips & tricks. Always stay safe and wear all safety protection. It is always best to make your cuts as you go and as they say, measure twice and cut once. 

If you have any questions just ask away! 

 

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Shopping List

3 – 2″ x 6″ x 8′

7- 2″ x 4″ x 8′

2 1/2″ Pocket Screws

Stain

Paint

Wood Glue

Stainable Wood Filler

Cut List

Cut List

3 – 2” x 6” @ 70” – TOP

4 – 2” x 4” @ 32” – LEGS

4 – 2” x 4” @ 12” – SIDES

3 – 2” x 4” @ 61 ½” -SIDE/BOTTOM SUPPORT

1 – 2” x 4” @ 27 ½” – MIDDLE BRACE

2 – 2” x 4” @ 13 ½” – Too Short end.  One End cut on 90 Degree, other cut on 45 Degree angle. BRACE 1

 

These next few cuts are more complex. See diagram below

2 – 2” x 4” @ 38 7/8” – First cut a 45 Degree Cut @ 42 ¾” to its longest point. Then cut another 45” @ 38 7/8” to its shortest point BRACE 2

2 – 2” x 4” @18 7/16” – First Cut a 45 Degree Cut @ 20 ½” to its longest point. Then Cut another 45 @ 18 7/16” to its shortest point. BRACE 3

Tools Needed

Mitre Saw

 

Mitre Saw

 

Drill

 

Kreg Jig

 

Sander

 

Pencil

 

Tape Measure

 

 

Paint Brush

 

Shop Towels

 

Gloves

 

Safety Glasses

 

Ear Protection

Step-by-Step

 

The Top

Drill 1 ½” Pocket holes into the long ends of the 2” x 6” boards

Using wood glue and 2 ½” Pocket screws attach the 3 boards together.

 

 

 

The Frame

First, we are going to assemble the two sides.

To do this we need to dill pocket holes in both ends of the SIDES (2” x 4” @ 12”)

Using 2 ½” Pocket Screws and wood glue, attach them to the Legs.

The Top SIDE board will be set back ¾” from the sides of the Leg.

Tip: Use a scrap 1” board as a spacer

The bottom SIDE board will be 3” From the bottom of the leg

 

 

 

When both legs are done, we will assemble the frame using the 3 2’ x 4” @ 61 ½” Boards (SIDE/BOTTOM SUPPORT)

Drill 1 ½” Pocket holes in each end of all 3 boards. In the 2 SIDE SUPPORT boards you will also drill pocket holes as shown to later attach to the top.

Use 2 ½” Pocket screws and wood glue to attach to the legs. The BOTTOM SUPPORT will be 5 ¾” From the side

 

 

 

Attach the top using 2 ½” Pocket screws into the holes we had previously drilled into the SIDE SUPPORTS. The Frame will be set in ¾” From the TOP

 

 

The X Brace

Drill Pocket holes in both ends of the MIDDLE BRACE, as well on the ends of BRACE 2

NOTE: on the 1 end of BRACE 2, the direction of each pocket hole is different.

Use wood glue and 2 ½” Pocket screws to attach these boards, making the back side of the board 6 ¾” from the inside of the frame and 1” off the edge of the BOTTOM SUPORT

 

Drill 1 ½” Pocket holes in the ends of BRACE 1 and BRACE 3. Note the direction of the pocket holes in the Diagram below.

Use 2 ½” Pocket screws and wood glue to attach.

 

 

The Finish

Fill all pocket holes with wood filler as well as any gaps/imperfections. I always fill in the joints of the top as well to ensure nothing will get caught in there.

Give everything a good sand and Paint/Stain as desired.

 

 

 

I hope you had fun will this build. Share your project and let me know how it went! 
-Michelle- 
  
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DIY Chunky Blanket Ladder for Under $15

Hi Everyone, I apologize for my absence over the last while, life just got a bit crazy.  However, the good news is I am back and have a bunch of awesome builds that I have been working on for you to check out! So, expect a new project post every other Wednesday! To get started here is a quick and easy yet attractive piece for your home that will make it a bit more cozy. A Rustic Chunky Blanket Ladder for under $15. 

I built this just before Christmas since I was tired of having the excessive amount of blankets we have lying around, and being messed up daily by one of the dogs. It turned out great and at Christmas dinner my sister-in-law decided she wanted me to build her one too!

So have fun & Happy Building!

 

 **FREE PRINTABLE PDF PLANS COMING SOON!**

 

Make sure you read through the instructions and look over the plans fully before you start your project. Check out the “Before You Start” page for more on tool information, tips & tricks. Always stay safe and wear all safety protection. It is always best to make your cuts as you go and as they say, measure twice and cut once.

If you have any questions just ask away!

Shopping List

2 – 2″ x 4″ x 8′

1 – 2″ x 6″ x 8′

 

Cut List

2 – 2″ x 4″ @ 66″ – SIDES 

4 – 2″ x 6″ @ 17″ – WRUNG 

Tools Needed

 

Tape Measure 

 

Pencil 

 

Circular Saw 

 

Sander

 

Kreg Jig 

 

 

 

Drill 

 

Shop Towels

 

Gloves 

 

Safety Glasses 

 

Ear Plugs 

Step-by-Step

Cut the boards to size and give them a good sand. Sanding now will make it easier to finish once the Blanket Ladder has been built.

 

After you have sanded, drill 2 pocket holes on each end of the 2″ x 6″ @ 17″ boards..

 

Attach the 2″ x 6″ pieces, using 2 1/2″ pocket screws, to one of the 2″ x 4″ boards. Use the following measurements:

  1. The WRUNGS are angled so that the opposite corners are flush with opposite edges of the SIDES. This will make the WRUNGS at a 45 angle to the SIDES
  2. The top WRUNG is 3″ away from the top of the SIDES 
  3. Each WRUNG is12″ apart from eachother

 

Attach the other SIDE in the same way. 

 

Finish as desired using wood filler, stain & Polyurethane 

 

 

I hope you had fun will this build. Share your project and let me know how it went!
-Michelle-

 

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Industrial Coffee Table

Hey Guys, One of my friends has been updating their living room with new furniture and asked if I would put together some pieces for her. I started with their coffee table. It needed to suit their style which is a more Rustic Industrial look. It also needed to be very durable since she had just gotten a puppy who is going to get big pretty quickly. We went through many options and when I showed her this design, she absolutely loved it. This Industrial Coffee table has legs that are painted to look like Metal, but the whole thing is made out of wood!  This table is a very simple and easy design so it’s a great option for a beginner DIY. On top of that the price point is fantastic.

Make sure you read through the instructions and look over the plans fully before you start your project. Check out the “Before You Start” page for more on tool information, tips & tricks. Always stay safe and wear all safety protection. It is always best to make your cuts as you go and as they say, measure twice and cut once.

If you have any questions just ask away!

 

CLICK HERE – FREE PDF PRINTABLE PLANS!

Shopping List

5 – 2″ x 6″ x 8′

4 – 2″ x 2″ x 8′

2 1/2″ Pocket Screws

2″  Wood Screws

Stain

Primer

Spray Paint

Stainable Wood Filler

Cut List

4 – 2″ x 2″ @ 45″ – LONG SIDE

4 -2″ x 2″ @ 24 1/2″ – SHORT SIDE

10 – 2″ x 6″ @ 48″ – TOP & BOTTOM SHELF

4 – 2″ x 2″ @ 16.5″ – LEGS

Tools Needed

 

Circular Saw

 

Drill

 

Kreg Jig

 

Clamps

 

Measuring Tape

 

Paint Brush

 

 

Pencil

 

Shop Towels

 

Safety Glasses

 

Ear Protection

 

Dust Mask

 

Gloves

The Step-by-Step

The Top & Bottom Shelf Assembly

Build each by Drilling 1 1/2″ Pocket Holes along the long end of the boards.

Use 2 1/2″ Pocket screws & Wood glue to attach the boards together. 

For the bottom shelf, cut out a 1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ Square out of each corner. This will be where it its into the Frame.

 

The Frame

To assemble the frame you first need to drill 1 1/2″ Pocket hole in each end of the 2″ x 2″ @ 44″ – LONG SIDE & 2″ x 2″ @24 1/2″ SHORT SIDE boards.

Attach the Short Side pieces  to the leg Pieces using 2 1/2″ Pocket Screws & Wood Glue. 

Now attach the 2 Long Side bottom pieces using 2 1/2″ Pocket Screws & Wood Glue

Place the bottom shelf into place, but do not fasten. We will fasten the bottom shelf later on. 

Now that the bottom shelf is in place, we can attach the 2 Top Long Side Pieces using 2 1/2″ Pocket Screws & Wood Glue.

 

Now, Before we can attach the bottom Shelf, and the top into place, we need to finish the frame. 

First, wood fill and sand any holes that are visible, then give the frame a good sand. 

Once the Frame is ready, its time to prime & paint in the colour you have chosen. I used the Rustoleum Metallic Dark Steel. It took one coat of the primer and 2 coats of paint.

Once the paint is dry you can attach the bottom shelf  &  the Top to the frame using 2 1/2″ Wood screws. Attach through the Frame.

Tip: attach the bottom shelf first by flipping the table on its side. Attach the top at the end so that it does not get damaged being against the floor.

 

The Final Finish

Just as you did for the frame, use wood filler on the table top and bottom shelf.

Once it has dried, give it a really good sand. 

Mask off the Painted frame and stain the top and bottom shelf. 

Once the stain has dried apply 2 coats of Polyurethane.

 

 

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Rustic Chunky Leg Coffee Table

Hey Guys, for all of you who have loved the look of the Rustic X Coffee table, but did not have the room for the length of it, here is a great alternative, the Rustic Chunky Leg Coffee Table. I have taken the table and turned it a 3 Foot square table. Now, with it being square, the 2” x 4” legs would not look right. Instead, 4” x 4” boards were used as the legs to keep the table looking balanced.

 

Make sure you read through the instructions and look over the plans fully before you start your project. Check out the “Before You Start” page for more on tool information, tips & tricks. Always stay safe and wear all safety protection. It is always best to make your cuts as you go and as they say, measure twice and cut once.

If you have any questions just ask away!

CLICK HERE – FREE PRINTABLE PDF PLANS 

Shopping List

4 – 2” x 4” x 8’
 
2 – 2” x 2” x 8’
 
1 – 1” x 10” x 8’
 

3 – 2” x 8” x 8’

L Brackets

Screws

2 ½” pocket Screws

1 ¼” Pocket Screws

2 “ Wood Screws

Paint

Stain

Polyurethane

Stainable Wood Filler

Cut List

8- 2” x 4” @ 27 ¾” – SUPPORTS
 
4 – 4” x 4” @ 16 ½” – LEGS
 
5 – 2” x 8” @ 36 ¼” – TOP
 
3 – 1 “ x 10”  @ 27 ¾” SHELF
 
2 – 2” x 2” @ 26 11/16″ From LONG END to SHORT END – 65 Degree cuts are Parallel **SEE TIP to Cut**
 
4 – 2” x 2” @ 11 3/8″ From SHORT END of 65 Degree angle to Long End of 40 Degree Angle **SEE TIP to cut**

Tools Needed

 
 
Mitre Saw

 

Kreg Jig

 

Drill

 

Sander

 

Clamps

 

Pencil

 

Tape Measure

 

Wood Glue

 

Shop Towels

 

Paint Brush

 

Ear Protection

 

Safety Glasses

 

Dust Mask

The Step-by-Step

The Base

First, pocket holes are needed on both ends of each 2 “ x 4” @ 27 ¾” Support Board

Use 2 ½” Pocket Screws & Wood Glue to attach these boards to the Legs. The top supports will be flush with the top of the Legs, the bottom support will be 2 ¼” from the bottom of the leg.

 

Next, we need to assemble the bottom shelf.

Drill ¾” Pocket holes on all sides of the boards. These will be used to attach the shelf together as well as to attach the shelf to the supports.

Use 1 ¼” Pocket screws & Wood Glue to assemble the boards together & attach to the supports.

 

Now its time to attach the X’s. Use 2 “ Wood screws and wood Glue to attach through the supports and use 2 ½” Pocket screws to attach the smaller pieces to the long Piece. Start with the Long piece, and then add the 2 smaller pieces.

TIP: To Cut these pieces, its best to first lay out the Full piece and mark off your lines. Cut & Install that piece first. For the smaller pieces, do the same thing. Mark and cut one full piece then place in behind the other and mark off the other cuts your are going to need. These will be around 40 Degrees

 

The Top

 Drill 1 ½” pocket holes in the 5 boards for the top, then use 2 ½” Pocket screws & Wood Glue to attach the boards together.

Assemble & Finish

Spray paint the 4 corner brackets and the co-ordinating Screws

While the brackets are drying, it’s time to finish the table. Use the stainable wood filler to fill in any pocket holes, the gaps in the top and any other imperfections.

 Once the wood filler has dried, give everything a good sand.

 Next, paint, stain and polyurethane depending on how you decided the table will look.

Note: remember if you will be painting the base of the table, do not forget to prime first.

 

Use 2 “ Wood Screws through the top support to attach the top.

 Finally attach the 4 corner brackets to the table top edge with the screws you also painted.

 

 

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Wallmount Bottle Opener for under $20

Hey All, With Father’s Day this past weekend, it was a pretty last minute gift idea that we decided on. We only had a week to have it completed (which we successfully did, longest was waiting for delivery of the bottle opener), we made two things. The first being in this post, the other, a custom end table/magazine rack will be posted later. This project a Wallmount Bottle Opener, is super quick and easy to build and can be done with scrap that you have lying around. If you do not have any scrap, with buying the bottle openers, materials are under $15. I haven’t done any sayings on it yet, as I’m letting my husband choose which one he wants. When that gets completed, I will put an updated photo up of it.

Make sure you read through the instructions and look over the plans fully before you start your project. Check out the “Before You Start” page for more on tool information, tips & tricks. Always stay safe and wear all safety protection. It is always best to make your cuts as you go and as they say, measure twice and cut once.
If you have any questions just ask away!

Shopping List

1 – 1” x 8” x 4’

1 – 1” x 4” x 4’

Metal Wall Mount Bottle Opener – Amazon

1 ¼” wood Screws

Stain

Wood Glue

Stainable Wood Filler

Cut List

1 – 1” x 8” @ 17” – Back

1 – 1” x 8” @ 4 ¼” – Bottom

2 – 1” x 4” @ 4 ¼” – Sides

1 – 1” x 4” @ 8 ½” – Front

Tools Needed

 

Circular Saw

 

Drill

 

Sander

 

Measuring Tape

 

Pencil

 

 

Gloves

 

Shop Towels

 

Ear Protection

 

Safety Glasses

The Step-by-Step

Use 1 ¼” Wood Screws & Glue to attach the bottom to the back piece. (recess the screws slightly to allow space for wood filler)

Using the 1 ¼” Wood Screws & Glue to Attach the sides to the Back/Bottom

Again, use the 1 ¼” Wood Screws and Glue to attach the front piece.

Wood fill and allow it to dry before giving a good sand. Then apply your stain.

Once the stain has dried, attach the Bottle Opener!

 

.

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Rustic X Coffee Table

Hey All,

My sister-in-law just moved into a new place and decided in order to make the place more to her style, she’s having me build some of her furniture. The first piece she decided on was a coffee table. However, down the road she’ll be having other pieces built in the same look, i.e. bookcase, console table, etc.

After searching on Pinterest for ideas she decided on one in particular she loved. The Rustic X Coffee Table found on Ana White. Its actually part of the line I was looking at eventually building for myself, so I definitely enjoyed doing this build.

I did make a few small changes. On Ana White’s plans it called for a 1″ x 12″ x 8′ board to be used for the bottom shelf. In Canada, when you do manage to find that size, its pretty expensive. I ended up using 1″ x 6″ x 8′ boards instead, which were a fraction of the cost. However, doing it this way had me adjust the width of the base of the table slightly, but not a big deal in the long run.

 

Make sure you read through the instructions and look over the plans fully before you start your project. Check out the “Before You Start” page for more on tool information, tips & tricks. Always stay safe and wear all safety protection. It is always best to make your cuts as you go and as they say, measure twice and cut once.

If you have any questions just ask away!

 

Subscribe Below For FREE PDF Plans of this project

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Shopping List

2 – 2″ x 4″ x 8′

4 – 2″x 2″ x 8′

2 – 1″ x 6″ x 8′

5 – 2″ x 6″ x 8′

1 1/4″ Pocket Screws

2 1/2″ Pocket Screws

8 – Flat Brackets OR 4 – Corners with Screws

Spray Paint – Black 

Stain

Polyurethane

Cut List

4 – 2″ x 4″ @ 16 ½” (legs)

4 – 2″ x 2″ @ 41” (side trim)

4 – 2″ x 4″ @ 21” (end trim)

4 – 1″ x 6″ @ 41” (bottom shelf)

2 – 2″ x 2″ @ 22 ½” (both ends cut at 60 degrees off square, long point to short point, ends are parallel)

4 – 2″ x 2″ @ 11 ¼” (long point to short point, one end cut at 60 degrees off square, other end cut at 30 degrees off square, ends are not parallel but are cut in same direction)

5 – 2″ x 6″ @ 52” (tabletop boards)

Tools Needed

 

Mitre Saw

 

Sander

 

Drill

 

Kreg Jig

 

Tape Measure

 

Pencil

 

 

 

Safety Glasses

 

Ear Protection

 

Paint Brush

 

Shop Towels

 

Gloves

TABLE BASE

First, we are going to build the two sides to this table using the 2″ x 4″ x 16.5″ and the 2″ x 2″ x 41″ boards. 

A pocket hole must be drilled in each of of the 2″ x 2″ x 41″ boards, then use 2 1/2″ pocket screws to attach them. The bottom 2″ x 2″ will be 2 1/4″ up from the floor

From there we have to attach the end trim/supports to connect these sides together using the 2″ x 4″ x 21″ boards. 

Both of these boards will have 2 pocket holes on each end. Again, use 2 1/2″ pocket screws to attach.

 

For me, the bottom shelf of this table consists of 4 – 1” x 6” boards cut to 41”. Use your Kreg Jig to Drill ¾” pocket holes to attach them together with 1 ¼” pocket screws.

You will also need to drill pocket holes around the perimeter of the shelf. This is how the shelf is attached to the frame.

 

 

Constructing the X is where it can get a bit more complicated. Since I used 1” x 6” opposed to the 1” x 12” boards from Ana White’s Plans, the width of my table base changed. Therefore changing the angles and lengths of the 2” x 2” boards used to make the X.

I started with the Long piece of the X. Since the width decreased I knew that the angle was going to slightly as well. Instead of cutting the one end at 60 Degrees, I cut it to 58.5 Degrees. From there I used the actually piece and the table frame to measure out the length that piece was going to be. I also cut that end at 58.5 degrees.

I did the same thing for the small components of the X. I cut the one end to 58.5 and laid it out. The other end, butting up against the long piece was cut down to just short of 30 Degrees. Attach these boards using 2 ½” screws.

 NOTE: Before attach the X to the table base, I gave the bottom shelf and each individual component of the X a very good sand. This made it easier, as it would be very hard to sand when the X is attached.

 

THE TOP

Now comes the time to put the top together using the 5 – 2” x 8” @ 52” boards.

 Drill 1 ½” pocket holes in the boards and attach them using 2 ½” pocket screws & Wood Glue.

 Before I attached the top to the base, I gave a 4” width perimeter of the bottom side of the top a good sand. Again, it was easier to do this now than when the top is attached to the frame. Use 2 ½” Wood Screws to attach the top by going from the underside through the 2” x 2” and 2” x 4” trims/supports.

 

Now that the table is constructed it comes down to finishing it. Use your Stainable wood filler to fill any pocket holes. I also used it to fill in the gaps between the boards for my top so there is nowhere to guck to collect.

Once the wood filler has dried, its time to give it a really good sand, first with 120 Grit and then 220 also for the top.

Vacuum and wipe the table down to remove any dust before you stain & seal with polyurethane. I always do 2 coats of the polyurethane, especially on table tops as it gives that extra protection.

 

Now, once the Polyurethane has fully dried, if you are going put the metal edging on like I did, you only have a few steps to go.

Spray paint the brackets and the screws Matte Black. Once fully dried, apply a second coat, let dry.

Align and drill pilot holes before screwing the brackets in place.

 

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Farmhouse Truss Beam Bench

Hey All!

I figured it was about time to post about the matching Farmhouse Truss Beam Bench  that was made to go with the 4×4 Farmhouse table I made at Christmas. Just like the Table, this bench was scaled down from the original plans done from Shanty-2-Chic and Ana White.

I absolutely love the way it turned out and I have to say that it is a must have to get the overall effect of the Table. The other great thing about this bench is that it doesn’t have to just be made to fit in with a Dining Table. You can scale it down even more then I did and use it as a bench for an entrance way or even use it outside. 

The Original plans from this bench can be found here, and are for having the bench at 87″ in total length. However, since I scaled my dining table down to fit into my space, I also had to scale this bench down as well.  The only measurements that changed for this was the middle 4″ x 4″ beam, the 2 – 2″ x 4″ and the 2″ x 8″s used for the seating. The rest of the measurements remained the same. 

Make sure you read through the instructions and look over the plans fully before you start your project. Check out the “Before You Start” page for more on tool information, tips & tricks. Always stay safe and wear all safety protection. It is always best to make your cuts as you go and as they say, measure twice and cut once.

If you have any questions just ask away!

 

FREE PDF PRINTABLE PLANS COMING VERY SOON!

 

Shopping List

2 – 4″ x 4″ x 8′

1 – 2″ x 4″ x 12′ (can get this cut in half)

1 – 2″ x 8″ x 12′ (can get this cut in half)

1 – 2″x 10″ x 3′ (if you don’t have this laying around from scrap from the table, you can just use scrap 2″ x 8″ pieces instead)

2 1/2″ Pocket Screws

Stain

Cut List

2 – 4″ x 4″ @ 13 1/2″

4 – 4″ x 4″ @ 13 1/4″ (LONG point to LONG point, both ends cut at 10 degrees off square, parallel)

2 – 4×4 @ 8″ (LONG point to LONG point, both ends cut at 10 degrees off square NOT parallel)

1 – 4×4 @ 50″

2 – 2×4 @ 50″

2 – 2×8 @ 53.5″

2 – 2×8 @ 14 1/2″

Tools Needed

Saw

 

Measuring Tape

 

Pencil

 

Sander

 

Drill

 

Paint Brush

 

Wood Glue

Kreg Jig HD

 

Shop Towels

 

Rubber Gloves

 

Safety Glasses

 

Ear Plugs

 

Face Mask for when sanding

The Step-by-Step

Too see the plans and Step-by-Step for the full sized bench Head on over to Ana White’s post

First we are going to build the two legs using the 4″ x  4″ @ 13 1/2″, 4″ x 4″  @ 13 1/4″, and 4″ x 4″ @ 8″ & your Kreg Jig HD, Don’t forget to use your wood glue!

 

Next we are going to attach the 4″ x 4″ @ 50″ & the 2″ x 4″ @ 50″ Supports

Using the Kreg Jig, drill  1 1/2″ pocket holes in the 2″ x 8″. Using the 2 1/2″ Pocket screws attach the boards together.

Lastly, attach the top of the bench to the legs using 2 1/2″ screws from underneath through the 2″ x 4″ boards

With that done you can finish the bench the way you want to. Do not forget to give everything a very good sanding. 

 

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X Style TV Console Stand for $100

Hey there! As mentioned before, slowly but surely I have been putting together my husband’s man cave. It definitely is coming together now, especially with the now built TV Console stand. For the last while he has been sitting on bean bag chairs, not wanting to put his couch in. His current make shift tv stand is way to low to watch from on a couch. Let’s just say he was really happy I made this the next “to-do” project. 

I saw a post on Pinterest from a couple who built something similar as a console stand with only one shelf and being over Six Feet long. It definitely did not meet the criteria for what I was going to use it for, but I loved the look of it, so I decided to modify it to what I needed. First I took a look, and a few measurements of what would be going onto this TV Console Stand. From the tv itself, the Sound bar, PS4, games and movies. From there, the planning started for how I was going to build it.

Make sure you read through the instructions and look over the plans fully before you start your project. Check out the “Before You Start” page for more on tool information, tips & tricks. Always stay safe and wear all safety protection. It is always best to make your cuts as you go and as they say, measure twice and cut once.

If you have any questions just ask away!

Shopping List

12 – 1″ x 4″ x 8′ 

2 – 2″ x 4″ x 8′

5 – 2″ x 8″ x 8′

3 – 2″ x 6″ x 8′ 

1 – 1″ x 6″ x 8′

6 – 1″ x 2″ x 8′

2 – 11/16″ Cove Moulding Pieces x 8′

2″ Wood Screws

2 1/2″ Wood Screws

 

Cut List

Top

2 – 2″ x 8″ x 55″

1 – 1″ x 2″ x 55″

Base Frame 

4 – 2″ x 4″ x 47″

4 – 2″ x 4″ x 12 3/4″

4 – 2″ x 4″ x 9 3/4″

22 – 1″ x 4″ x 32″

Interior Supports & Shelves

10 – 1″ x 2″ x 8″

2 – 1″ x 2″ x 50″

4 – 1″ x 2″ x 12″

3 – 2″ x 8″ x 50″

3 – 2″ x 6″ x 50″

Trim 

1 – 1″ x 6″ x 52 7/8″  – Ripped down to 5″ W

2 – 1″ x 6″ x 13 1/2″ – Ripped down to 5″ W

2 – 1″ x 4″ x 14 1/4″

1 – 1″ x 4″ x 54 1/4″

Decorative Trim Moulding – Cove Mould

2 – 52 3/4″ – 45 Degrees not Parallel

4 – Pieces Cut to size Aprx 14 1/4″ – 45 Degrees on one end

 

Tools Needed

 

Pencil

 

Tape Measure

 

Speed Square

 

Clamps

 

Safety Glasses

 

Ear Plugs

Wood Glue

 

 

Drill

 

Mitre Saw

 

Jig Saw

 

Brad Nailer

 

Sander

 

Paint Brush

 

Shop Towels

 

Step-by-Step

Base of the Cabinet

Using the 2″ x 4″ boards, we are going to make the 2 main supports for it. Use the 4 pieces at 47″ , 4 pieces at 12 3/4″, and 4 pieces at 9 3/4. You will use 2 of each size per support.

Using the 2 1/2″ Wood Screws attach them together as so.

Next, Grab your 1″ x 4″ boards and lay them out along the back.  You will have to trim the end one slightly. 

Drill your pilot holes so that you the boards wont crack as you screw them in place. 

Use the 1 1/4″ Wood Screws to attach.

Once you have finished the back, you can move on to the sides. 

Again, one board on each will have to be trimmed slightly. 

Pre-drill pilot holes and use the 1 1/4″ Wood Screws to attach the boards. 

This is now what we have when we stand it up.

Lay in the First set of Shelf boards. I put the 2″ x 6″ board towards the back and the 2″ x 8″ Board at the front. 

From there you will measure up 8″ and This is where the shelf support will be put in. 

Grab your 1″ x 2″ boards that were cut for this and nail them in place. Do not forget to use your Wood Glue for extra Strength.

Lay the next set of shelf boards on to these supports, then repeat the process for the shelf supports & Shelf boards one more time. 

 

Time to work on all the trim pieces. 

First you will take the 1″ x 6″ board that you purchased and trim it down to 5″ to fit over the  base and bottom row of shelves. See the photo below. 

Next, Grab the 1″ x 4″ trim pieces and start covering the top frame. You will also add trim over the 5″ section you just put in as well

Once you have those two sections done, you will install all Horizontal Pieces. 

This is what you will have once all of those 4″ Trim pieces are in place. 

It’s now time to make your X.

Fist cut your long pieces with a 10 Degree angle on one end and a 10 Desgree  on the other.  Ends are Parallel

The smaller pieces are trickier with the angle. You will need a Jig saw or Hand Saw to cut these.

These ends are not Parallel to each other. See the photo Below. 

Glue and Nail these X’s in place. 

Lastly, before we attach the top, we just need to add the Decorative Cove Mould Trim Pieces to both the bottom & The Top. 

These will be mitered to 45″ Angles. 

Attach them with the Brad Nailer. 

This just gives the cabinet that extra little bit. See below. 

 

The Top

Take the 2 – 2″ x 8″ x 55″ boards and drill in your pocket holes & attach the boards using 2 1/2″ Pocket Screws. 

Take the 1″ x 2″ x 55″ Board and screw it  from the back to the back of the top to give you that extra inch that is needed.  Use 2″ Wood Screws for this. 

Now its time to attach the top and apply all the finishing touches. 

Use 2.5″ Screws to attach the top into the Bracing supports of the frame. Set the screws in deeper so that you can apply Stainable Wood Filler over them. 

Sand Away then Stain and paint as desired. 

For the look I went for I stained the top and all the edges. I did this so that after I painted the base of the cabinet I could sand the edges to give it that rustic dated look. 




A-Frame Farmhouse Table for Under $120

Hey Everyone! For the longest time I have wanted to replace our small dining room table for the longest time. I found the idea of what I wanted to build off of Shanty-2-Chic & Ana-White, the 4×4 Truss Beam Farmhouse Table. However, the plan to build it kept getting put off by other things needed to be done. In the beginning of December, I put my foot down and decided that I HAD to have the table ready for Christmas Dinner. So, I quickly got to selling my old table on Kijiji which amazingly from what I sold it for essentially covered the cost of the new table.

Looking at the plans that Ana-White provided, I realized I would have to scale my own table down over a foot in order for it to work in my space. I spent a while deciding on the exact size, as I did not want it to be too small and look awkward. I ended up at the deciding factor of 72″ (6 feet) in length would not be overly large in my space, and it would still look great.

The hardest part in this whole project was finding the 4″ x 4″x 8’s that were untreated. In Canada, it seems that our Big Box Stores like Home Depot or Lowes only carry the pressure treated ones. Quite a while was spent calling around lumber yards in the area but I managed to find some. It cost me a bit more then buying the treated ones would have, however untreated is the best way to go for any indoor projects.

 

Make sure you read through the instructions and look over the plans fully before you start your project. Check out the “Before You Start” page for more on tool information, tips & tricks. Always stay safe and wear all safety protection. It is always best to make your cuts as you go and as they say, measure twice and cut once.

If you have any questions just ask away!

 

 TO DOWNLOAD THE FREE PLANS CLICK HERE

  

Shopping List

5 – 4″ x 4″ x 8′

2 – 2″ x 4″ x 8′

3 – 2″ x 10″ x 12′

2 1/2″ Course Pocket Screws

6 – 2 1/2″ Wood Screws

4 – 3″ Wood Screws

10 – 4″ Wood Screws

Stain – I chose Minwax Dark Walnut

Polyurethane – Minwax Semi Gloss Finish on this one

Wood Glue – I prefer Gorilla Glue

Cut List

Legs/Frame

2 – 4″ x 4″ @ 35″

4 – 4″ x 4″ @ 25 3/8″ – Each end is cut 10º off Square LONG POINT to SHORT POINT Making the ends Parallel

2 – 4″ x 4″ @ 28 1/4″ – Each end is cut 10º off Square, LONG POINT to LONG POINT making ends NOT parallel

2 – 4″ x 4″ @ 24 1/8″  – Each end is cut 50″ off Square, LONG POINT to SHORT POINT Making the ends Parallel

2 – 4″ x 4″ @ 50″

2 – 2″ x 4″ @ 50″

Table Top

4 – 2″ x 10″ @ 53 1/2″

2 – 2″ x 10″ x 37″ Approximately. Cut these boards after you have joined together the 4 – 2″ x 10″ @ 53 1/2″ to ensure you have the exact measurement

Tools Needed

 

Mitre Saw

 

Sander

 

Measuring Tape

 

Speed Square

 

Pencil

 

Clamps

 

Shop Towels – For Staining

 

 

Kreg Jig – HD Model

 

Drill

 

Safety Glasses

 

Ear Plugs

 

Work Gloves & Rubber Gloves to Stain

 

Bristle Paint Brush for the Polyurethane

 

The Step-by-Step

For more great step-by-step photos visit Shanty-2-Chic to see what Whitney added for the original table or to see the plans for the Full Sized Version of this table. 

Table Legs

First, we are going to work on the 2 legs with the 4″ x 4″ boards we have pre-cut. 

Lay them out to see how they are going to be assembled and to see where the pocket holes must go. Do each piece one by one to ensure you do the in the correct spots. 

To work with the Kreg Jig HD and these large boards I used 2 clamps to ensure that the Jig, nor the board moved as I was drilling out the pocket holes. See the photos below.

Here is what the pocket holes will look like. They are larger then the pocket holes you would get from the Regular Kreg Jig.

Now we are going to use the 2 1/2″ Pocket screws to attach these boards together.

NOTE: Don’t forget to use the Wood Glue in between all joints all though out the project.

You’re going to start with attaching the 2 boards @ 25 3/8″ to the 35″ boards, then add the board @28 1/4″. This will make the A Frame look.

Now that you have the 2 Legs assembled, you need to attach them together. Again, pull out the Kreg Jig & your drill and make the pocket holes into the 2 4″ x 4″ @ 50″ boards. 

Note: For the next bit, it is easiest to have the table upside down when screwing in the boards. 

Grab those 2 – 4″ x 4″ @ 22 1/2″ boards @ the 50º angles. We are going to screw these in with the 3″ & 4″ wood screws we bought. An amazing tip that I learned from Shanty-2-Chic for this part was to use Gorilla Tape as a way of essentially clamping the boards into place, and like they said it works like a charm.

With the Gorilla Tape holding those boards in place, use the 3″ Wood screws to screw in at the 45″ Angle into the top board, then use the 4″ Wood Screws to attach from the bottom 4″ x 4″ board. 

Keeping the table upside down, attach the 2″x 4″ aprons with 2  1/2″ Pocket screws.

 Here is what it will look like when the legs are done

The Top

 Gather the 4 – 2″ x 10″ x 53″ Boards and mark off where are you going to place the pocket holes. See the photo below for general idea.

My boards wanted to be a bit tricky, as they were not perfectly straight. Its hard to get the perfect when buying at such a long length. To get them to be flush I had to add a few more pocket holes. I had the boards clamped in to place and worked from one end to the other ensuring that the boards were flush as I went, adjusting the placement of clamps when needed.

Now its time to measure and cut your end pieces then attach them with the 2 1/2″ Pocket Screws. 

 

 

The Finishing Touches

Make sure you fill the Holes and gaps with Stain-able Wood Filler. For the best stain look, make sure you sand the table in steps. I started with 80Grit, moved to 120Grit then 320 Grit for the finish before I stained & applied the 2 coats of Polyurethane 

Due to the weight and size, I didn’t attach the top to the base until it was in place in my dining room.

Use the 4″ Wood Screws to attach from the table legs, using about 3 per end. Then use the 2 1/2″ wood Screws to attach through the 2″ x 4″aprons

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-Michelle