Tag: table - This DIY Home

DIY Compact Chalkboard L-Desk

Hey Guys! Finally I have a room specifically for me to create into an office. It may be in the basement which makes my husband call it my Woman Cave, but it is at least a room. There will be no more papers sprawled out all over the dining table, or lugging the old MacBook around. I even have a space specially for my art so that I may actually want to start up again. (by the time I set up before I lost the motivation to actually do it). This being said, the next few weeks I will be going over the Furniture, Built-Ins and Accessories that make my fun and cozy office space. This week I will start with the main component, the desk.

I needed something that gave lots of space but would fit into the narrow room, and also allowed me easy access to my built-in bookshelf and could fit my Filing cabinet underneath. Needless to say a bit of planning went into this build to ensure I could get the most out of it. However, I did end up changing my original plans near the end. Originally I was planning on using 2x4s and stain for the top, but while looking around my garage I realized I had 2 pieces of MDF left over from building my daughter’s Loft Bed with Built in Bookshelf and Desk. These boards were actually the PERFECT size for the top of the desk, and allowed me to have less waste sitting in my garage.

Now, the only issue was determining what I wanted to do to finish it, since staining it was now out of the question. I have to give credit to my husband for this one, he suggested that I use chalkboard paint. Admittedly, I just stared at him when he suggested it, wondering, “why would I do that?” He must have noticed the look on my face since he continued saying and I quote “You’re always sketching and planning new ideas on paper that just gets thrown out. This way you can just erase and start over, less scrap.” I had to admit, it has turned out to be a great idea, even for just little reminder notes for myself. So check below for the How to on building a DIY Compact Chalkboard L-Desk.

Now remember, Have Fun & Happy Building!

 

Make sure you read through the instructions and look over the plans fully before you start your project. Check out the “Before You Start” page for more on tool information, tips & tricks. Always stay safe and wear all safety protection. It is always best to make your cuts as you go and as they say, measure twice and cut once. 

If you have any questions just ask away! 

 

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Shopping List

6 – 2″ x 4″ x 8′ 

2 – ½” x 2′ x 4′ MDF Boards 

Chalkboard Paint  

White Paint 

2 ½” Wood Screws 

2 ½” Pocket Screws 

Cut List

6 – 2″ x 4″ @ 28″ – LEG 

4 – 2″ x 4″ @ 23″ – LRG LEG T&B 

2 – 2″ x 4″ @ 19 ½” – SM LEG T&B 

2 – 2″ x 2″ @ 33 1/2″ – Long to Short with 35 Deg Cut on each end – X1  

4 – 2″ x 2″ @ 16 3/4″ – Long to Long with 35 Deg on one end 25 on the other- X2 

1 – 2″ x 2″ @ 31 1/2″ Long to Short with Degree Cut on each End- X3 

2 – 2″ x 2″ @ 15 3/4″ Long to Long with 35 Deg. on each end- X4 

1 – MDF @ 2′ x 4′ – TOP LRG SIDE 

1 – MDF @ 20 ½” x 31″ – TOP SM SIDE 

2 – 2″ x 4″ @ 40″ – LONG SUPPORT 

2 – 2″ x 4″ @ 27 ½” – SHORT SUPPORT 

Tools Needed

 

Circular Saw 

 

Drill 

 

Kreg Jig 

 

Brad Nailer with 1″ Brad Nails 

 

Clamps 

 

Pencil  

 

Measuring tape 

 

Wood Glue 

 

 

Wood Filler 

 

Sander

 

Paint Brush 

 

Spong Roller & Tray 

 

Shop Towels 

 

Gloves 

 

Ear Plugs 

 

Safety Glasses 

Step-By-Step

 

Start by cutting all of the boards, except for the ones for the X. (If a measurement is slightly off, it will change they angle for the X cuts) 

 

Assemble 

 

First, the frames for the legs need to be assembled.  

 For the 2 Large Legs use 2 ½” Screws through the LRG LEG T&B into the LEG boards.  

Do the same for the Small Leg through the SM LEG T&B into the LEG boards.  

 

  

For each LEG, measure out the Long X boards X1 & X3, however do not attach these yet, just lay them in place.  

Do the same for the smaller X boards, X2 & X4 and again, do not attach them.  

 

 

 

Drill 2 Pocket holes in each end of the LONG SUPPORT & SHORT SUPPORT boards. Also Drill a single pocket hole in the 20 Deg cut end of the X2 & X4 boards.  

 

 

 

Before we do any more assembly, we are going to give all of the boards a rough sand using 80-grit sandpaper to remove any large imperfections in the boards.  

 

Next attach the X1/X3 boards to its respective frame using 2 ½” Wood Screws through the LRG LEG T&B/ SHORT LEG T&B 

Now attach the X2 & X4 Boards using a 2 ½” Pocket screw on the one end and a 2 ½” Wood Screw through the LRG LEG T&B/ SHORT LEG T&B as you did in the previous step.  

 

Fill & Sand

With the 3 Legs now assembled, use wood filler to fill any holes in the boards. Don’t forget to do the SUPPORT boards also.  

 

Attach the 2 LONG SUPPORTS to connect the Large Legs using 2 ½” Pocket screws.  

Do not attach the Small Side yet as it will make managing to move the desk quite hard and awkward.

 

 

Once the wood filler has dried, give the boards a good sand using 220-grit sandpaper to ensure it is all smooth and ready for the finishing.   

  

 

Finish & Final Assembly

 

Now, paint all the boards for the Desk Base. More than likely you will need at least 2 coats 

 

Bring all your pieces into the room it will assembled in, then use 2 ½” Pocket screws to attach the SHORT SUPPORT boards to both the Large side and the Small Leg.  

 Now, the way I have done this is to make it able to be taken fully apart at a later date, especially when we move.  

 

Place the Desk Top boards on top of the frame, placing the Large Side first and ensure that there is a ½” overlap around.  

Note: The large side will overlap the Small side frame 

With the Top boards in place, use a brad nailer with 1 inch nails to attach along the frame.  

 

 

All that’s left painting the top with the chalk paint. Use the Foam roller to apply the first coat and allow it to dry for an hour before applying the second coat.  

The final step to finishing the chalk board top is priming it, by covering it lightly in chalk 24 hours after its cured then clean up with soap and water.  

 
 
I hope you had fun will this build. Share your project and let me know how it went! 
-Michelle- 
  
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X Brace Console Table

Hey guys, this build was something that was desperately needed in my house. I have 2 massive windows at the front of the house that are only a foot and a half off the floor. The one window is directly in the straight path of the hallway that runs down the length of my house. Now, take 2 big dogs + hardwood Floors and you get 2 dogs that don’t stop when they decide they want to see what is outside. Needless to say I have a huge head size hole in the screen. To avoid this the windows have to stay closed at all times, which I don’t want to do. Which brings me to this build… I decided to build an X Console Table to fit in front of these windows that will keep my boys from getting to it, and allowing me to open the windows again without the fear of them going through.

 

Make sure you read through the instructions and look over the plans fully before you start your project. Check out the “Before You Start” page for more on tool information, tips & tricks. Always stay safe and wear all safety protection. It is always best to make your cuts as you go and as they say, measure twice and cut once. 

If you have any questions just ask away! 

 

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Shopping List

3 – 2″ x 6″ x 8′

7- 2″ x 4″ x 8′

2 1/2″ Pocket Screws

Stain

Paint

Wood Glue

Stainable Wood Filler

Cut List

Cut List

3 – 2” x 6” @ 70” – TOP

4 – 2” x 4” @ 32” – LEGS

4 – 2” x 4” @ 12” – SIDES

3 – 2” x 4” @ 61 ½” -SIDE/BOTTOM SUPPORT

1 – 2” x 4” @ 27 ½” – MIDDLE BRACE

2 – 2” x 4” @ 13 ½” – Too Short end.  One End cut on 90 Degree, other cut on 45 Degree angle. BRACE 1

 

These next few cuts are more complex. See diagram below

2 – 2” x 4” @ 38 7/8” – First cut a 45 Degree Cut @ 42 ¾” to its longest point. Then cut another 45” @ 38 7/8” to its shortest point BRACE 2

2 – 2” x 4” @18 7/16” – First Cut a 45 Degree Cut @ 20 ½” to its longest point. Then Cut another 45 @ 18 7/16” to its shortest point. BRACE 3

Tools Needed

Mitre Saw

 

Mitre Saw

 

Drill

 

Kreg Jig

 

Sander

 

Pencil

 

Tape Measure

 

 

Paint Brush

 

Shop Towels

 

Gloves

 

Safety Glasses

 

Ear Protection

Step-by-Step

 

The Top

Drill 1 ½” Pocket holes into the long ends of the 2” x 6” boards

Using wood glue and 2 ½” Pocket screws attach the 3 boards together.

 

 

 

The Frame

First, we are going to assemble the two sides.

To do this we need to dill pocket holes in both ends of the SIDES (2” x 4” @ 12”)

Using 2 ½” Pocket Screws and wood glue, attach them to the Legs.

The Top SIDE board will be set back ¾” from the sides of the Leg.

Tip: Use a scrap 1” board as a spacer

The bottom SIDE board will be 3” From the bottom of the leg

 

 

 

When both legs are done, we will assemble the frame using the 3 2’ x 4” @ 61 ½” Boards (SIDE/BOTTOM SUPPORT)

Drill 1 ½” Pocket holes in each end of all 3 boards. In the 2 SIDE SUPPORT boards you will also drill pocket holes as shown to later attach to the top.

Use 2 ½” Pocket screws and wood glue to attach to the legs. The BOTTOM SUPPORT will be 5 ¾” From the side

 

 

 

Attach the top using 2 ½” Pocket screws into the holes we had previously drilled into the SIDE SUPPORTS. The Frame will be set in ¾” From the TOP

 

 

The X Brace

Drill Pocket holes in both ends of the MIDDLE BRACE, as well on the ends of BRACE 2

NOTE: on the 1 end of BRACE 2, the direction of each pocket hole is different.

Use wood glue and 2 ½” Pocket screws to attach these boards, making the back side of the board 6 ¾” from the inside of the frame and 1” off the edge of the BOTTOM SUPORT

 

Drill 1 ½” Pocket holes in the ends of BRACE 1 and BRACE 3. Note the direction of the pocket holes in the Diagram below.

Use 2 ½” Pocket screws and wood glue to attach.

 

 

The Finish

Fill all pocket holes with wood filler as well as any gaps/imperfections. I always fill in the joints of the top as well to ensure nothing will get caught in there.

Give everything a good sand and Paint/Stain as desired.

 

 

 

I hope you had fun will this build. Share your project and let me know how it went! 
-Michelle- 
  
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Industrial Coffee Table

Hey Guys, One of my friends has been updating their living room with new furniture and asked if I would put together some pieces for her. I started with their coffee table. It needed to suit their style which is a more Rustic Industrial look. It also needed to be very durable since she had just gotten a puppy who is going to get big pretty quickly. We went through many options and when I showed her this design, she absolutely loved it. This Industrial Coffee table has legs that are painted to look like Metal, but the whole thing is made out of wood!  This table is a very simple and easy design so it’s a great option for a beginner DIY. On top of that the price point is fantastic.

Make sure you read through the instructions and look over the plans fully before you start your project. Check out the “Before You Start” page for more on tool information, tips & tricks. Always stay safe and wear all safety protection. It is always best to make your cuts as you go and as they say, measure twice and cut once.

If you have any questions just ask away!

 

CLICK HERE – FREE PDF PRINTABLE PLANS!

Shopping List

5 – 2″ x 6″ x 8′

4 – 2″ x 2″ x 8′

2 1/2″ Pocket Screws

2″  Wood Screws

Stain

Primer

Spray Paint

Stainable Wood Filler

Cut List

4 – 2″ x 2″ @ 45″ – LONG SIDE

4 -2″ x 2″ @ 24 1/2″ – SHORT SIDE

10 – 2″ x 6″ @ 48″ – TOP & BOTTOM SHELF

4 – 2″ x 2″ @ 16.5″ – LEGS

Tools Needed

 

Circular Saw

 

Drill

 

Kreg Jig

 

Clamps

 

Measuring Tape

 

Paint Brush

 

 

Pencil

 

Shop Towels

 

Safety Glasses

 

Ear Protection

 

Dust Mask

 

Gloves

The Step-by-Step

The Top & Bottom Shelf Assembly

Build each by Drilling 1 1/2″ Pocket Holes along the long end of the boards.

Use 2 1/2″ Pocket screws & Wood glue to attach the boards together. 

For the bottom shelf, cut out a 1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ Square out of each corner. This will be where it its into the Frame.

 

The Frame

To assemble the frame you first need to drill 1 1/2″ Pocket hole in each end of the 2″ x 2″ @ 44″ – LONG SIDE & 2″ x 2″ @24 1/2″ SHORT SIDE boards.

Attach the Short Side pieces  to the leg Pieces using 2 1/2″ Pocket Screws & Wood Glue. 

Now attach the 2 Long Side bottom pieces using 2 1/2″ Pocket Screws & Wood Glue

Place the bottom shelf into place, but do not fasten. We will fasten the bottom shelf later on. 

Now that the bottom shelf is in place, we can attach the 2 Top Long Side Pieces using 2 1/2″ Pocket Screws & Wood Glue.

 

Now, Before we can attach the bottom Shelf, and the top into place, we need to finish the frame. 

First, wood fill and sand any holes that are visible, then give the frame a good sand. 

Once the Frame is ready, its time to prime & paint in the colour you have chosen. I used the Rustoleum Metallic Dark Steel. It took one coat of the primer and 2 coats of paint.

Once the paint is dry you can attach the bottom shelf  &  the Top to the frame using 2 1/2″ Wood screws. Attach through the Frame.

Tip: attach the bottom shelf first by flipping the table on its side. Attach the top at the end so that it does not get damaged being against the floor.

 

The Final Finish

Just as you did for the frame, use wood filler on the table top and bottom shelf.

Once it has dried, give it a really good sand. 

Mask off the Painted frame and stain the top and bottom shelf. 

Once the stain has dried apply 2 coats of Polyurethane.

 

 

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Rustic Chunky Leg Coffee Table

Hey Guys, for all of you who have loved the look of the Rustic X Coffee table, but did not have the room for the length of it, here is a great alternative, the Rustic Chunky Leg Coffee Table. I have taken the table and turned it a 3 Foot square table. Now, with it being square, the 2” x 4” legs would not look right. Instead, 4” x 4” boards were used as the legs to keep the table looking balanced.

 

Make sure you read through the instructions and look over the plans fully before you start your project. Check out the “Before You Start” page for more on tool information, tips & tricks. Always stay safe and wear all safety protection. It is always best to make your cuts as you go and as they say, measure twice and cut once.

If you have any questions just ask away!

CLICK HERE – FREE PRINTABLE PDF PLANS 

Shopping List

4 – 2” x 4” x 8’
 
2 – 2” x 2” x 8’
 
1 – 1” x 10” x 8’
 

3 – 2” x 8” x 8’

L Brackets

Screws

2 ½” pocket Screws

1 ¼” Pocket Screws

2 “ Wood Screws

Paint

Stain

Polyurethane

Stainable Wood Filler

Cut List

8- 2” x 4” @ 27 ¾” – SUPPORTS
 
4 – 4” x 4” @ 16 ½” – LEGS
 
5 – 2” x 8” @ 36 ¼” – TOP
 
3 – 1 “ x 10”  @ 27 ¾” SHELF
 
2 – 2” x 2” @ 26 11/16″ From LONG END to SHORT END – 65 Degree cuts are Parallel **SEE TIP to Cut**
 
4 – 2” x 2” @ 11 3/8″ From SHORT END of 65 Degree angle to Long End of 40 Degree Angle **SEE TIP to cut**

Tools Needed

 
 
Mitre Saw

 

Kreg Jig

 

Drill

 

Sander

 

Clamps

 

Pencil

 

Tape Measure

 

Wood Glue

 

Shop Towels

 

Paint Brush

 

Ear Protection

 

Safety Glasses

 

Dust Mask

The Step-by-Step

The Base

First, pocket holes are needed on both ends of each 2 “ x 4” @ 27 ¾” Support Board

Use 2 ½” Pocket Screws & Wood Glue to attach these boards to the Legs. The top supports will be flush with the top of the Legs, the bottom support will be 2 ¼” from the bottom of the leg.

 

Next, we need to assemble the bottom shelf.

Drill ¾” Pocket holes on all sides of the boards. These will be used to attach the shelf together as well as to attach the shelf to the supports.

Use 1 ¼” Pocket screws & Wood Glue to assemble the boards together & attach to the supports.

 

Now its time to attach the X’s. Use 2 “ Wood screws and wood Glue to attach through the supports and use 2 ½” Pocket screws to attach the smaller pieces to the long Piece. Start with the Long piece, and then add the 2 smaller pieces.

TIP: To Cut these pieces, its best to first lay out the Full piece and mark off your lines. Cut & Install that piece first. For the smaller pieces, do the same thing. Mark and cut one full piece then place in behind the other and mark off the other cuts your are going to need. These will be around 40 Degrees

 

The Top

 Drill 1 ½” pocket holes in the 5 boards for the top, then use 2 ½” Pocket screws & Wood Glue to attach the boards together.

Assemble & Finish

Spray paint the 4 corner brackets and the co-ordinating Screws

While the brackets are drying, it’s time to finish the table. Use the stainable wood filler to fill in any pocket holes, the gaps in the top and any other imperfections.

 Once the wood filler has dried, give everything a good sand.

 Next, paint, stain and polyurethane depending on how you decided the table will look.

Note: remember if you will be painting the base of the table, do not forget to prime first.

 

Use 2 “ Wood Screws through the top support to attach the top.

 Finally attach the 4 corner brackets to the table top edge with the screws you also painted.

 

 

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Side Table with a Magazine Rack & Shelf

Hey all, here is the other gift that was made for father’s day. A couch side table for my husband that has a magazine rack and shelf. The best part is how compact it is for the limited space and its custom height to fit right over the arm of the couch. It doesn’t take much to build this and can be made for under $25.00.

 

Make sure you read through the instructions and look over the plans fully before you start your project. Check out the “Before You Start” page for more on tool information, tips & tricks. Always stay safe and wear all safety protection. It is always best to make your cuts as you go and as they say, measure twice and cut once.

If you have any questions just ask away!

CLICK HERE – FREE PRINTABLE PDF PLANS 

Shopping List

1 – 1” x 6” x 8’

1 – 1” x 10” x 4’

Wood Glue

1 – 1” x 8” x 4’

1 ¼” Wood Screws

Stain-able Wood-Filler

Stain

Polyurethane

Cut List

1 – 1” x 12” @ 16” Top

1 – 1” x 8” @ 16” Bottom

2 – 1” x 6” @ 23” Sides

3 – 1” x 6” @14 ½” Shelf & Mag Front

1 – 1” x 8” @ 16” Back Of Magazine

Tools Needed

 

Circular Saw

 

Sander

 

Drill

 

Measuring Tape

 

Pencil

 

Shop Towels

 

Gloves

 

Safety Glasses

 

Ear Protection

Step-By-Step

 

First thing you will do is pre-sand the boards, otherwise you will have a hard time once the stand is built.

 

Take the 2 boards for the sides and attach both the top and bottom boards using 1 ¼” wood screws and wood glue

Build the little shelf using 2 of the 1” x 6” @ 14 ½” boards. First attach the back board then attach the bottom of the shelf. Again use 1 ¼” wood screws to attach

The last 2 boards are for the magazine rack. The large 1” x 8” board will be the back piece (going against the couch) The smaller is for the front. Use the 1 ¼” wood screws to attach

All that is left is to finish. Fill with stain-able wood filler, Give another sand, stain and apply your polyurethane.

 

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Rustic X Coffee Table

Hey All,

My sister-in-law just moved into a new place and decided in order to make the place more to her style, she’s having me build some of her furniture. The first piece she decided on was a coffee table. However, down the road she’ll be having other pieces built in the same look, i.e. bookcase, console table, etc.

After searching on Pinterest for ideas she decided on one in particular she loved. The Rustic X Coffee Table found on Ana White. Its actually part of the line I was looking at eventually building for myself, so I definitely enjoyed doing this build.

I did make a few small changes. On Ana White’s plans it called for a 1″ x 12″ x 8′ board to be used for the bottom shelf. In Canada, when you do manage to find that size, its pretty expensive. I ended up using 1″ x 6″ x 8′ boards instead, which were a fraction of the cost. However, doing it this way had me adjust the width of the base of the table slightly, but not a big deal in the long run.

 

Make sure you read through the instructions and look over the plans fully before you start your project. Check out the “Before You Start” page for more on tool information, tips & tricks. Always stay safe and wear all safety protection. It is always best to make your cuts as you go and as they say, measure twice and cut once.

If you have any questions just ask away!

 

Subscribe Below For FREE PDF Plans of this project

Name *

Email *

 

 

Shopping List

2 – 2″ x 4″ x 8′

4 – 2″x 2″ x 8′

2 – 1″ x 6″ x 8′

5 – 2″ x 6″ x 8′

1 1/4″ Pocket Screws

2 1/2″ Pocket Screws

8 – Flat Brackets OR 4 – Corners with Screws

Spray Paint – Black 

Stain

Polyurethane

Cut List

4 – 2″ x 4″ @ 16 ½” (legs)

4 – 2″ x 2″ @ 41” (side trim)

4 – 2″ x 4″ @ 21” (end trim)

4 – 1″ x 6″ @ 41” (bottom shelf)

2 – 2″ x 2″ @ 22 ½” (both ends cut at 60 degrees off square, long point to short point, ends are parallel)

4 – 2″ x 2″ @ 11 ¼” (long point to short point, one end cut at 60 degrees off square, other end cut at 30 degrees off square, ends are not parallel but are cut in same direction)

5 – 2″ x 6″ @ 52” (tabletop boards)

Tools Needed

 

Mitre Saw

 

Sander

 

Drill

 

Kreg Jig

 

Tape Measure

 

Pencil

 

 

 

Safety Glasses

 

Ear Protection

 

Paint Brush

 

Shop Towels

 

Gloves

TABLE BASE

First, we are going to build the two sides to this table using the 2″ x 4″ x 16.5″ and the 2″ x 2″ x 41″ boards. 

A pocket hole must be drilled in each of of the 2″ x 2″ x 41″ boards, then use 2 1/2″ pocket screws to attach them. The bottom 2″ x 2″ will be 2 1/4″ up from the floor

From there we have to attach the end trim/supports to connect these sides together using the 2″ x 4″ x 21″ boards. 

Both of these boards will have 2 pocket holes on each end. Again, use 2 1/2″ pocket screws to attach.

 

For me, the bottom shelf of this table consists of 4 – 1” x 6” boards cut to 41”. Use your Kreg Jig to Drill ¾” pocket holes to attach them together with 1 ¼” pocket screws.

You will also need to drill pocket holes around the perimeter of the shelf. This is how the shelf is attached to the frame.

 

 

Constructing the X is where it can get a bit more complicated. Since I used 1” x 6” opposed to the 1” x 12” boards from Ana White’s Plans, the width of my table base changed. Therefore changing the angles and lengths of the 2” x 2” boards used to make the X.

I started with the Long piece of the X. Since the width decreased I knew that the angle was going to slightly as well. Instead of cutting the one end at 60 Degrees, I cut it to 58.5 Degrees. From there I used the actually piece and the table frame to measure out the length that piece was going to be. I also cut that end at 58.5 degrees.

I did the same thing for the small components of the X. I cut the one end to 58.5 and laid it out. The other end, butting up against the long piece was cut down to just short of 30 Degrees. Attach these boards using 2 ½” screws.

 NOTE: Before attach the X to the table base, I gave the bottom shelf and each individual component of the X a very good sand. This made it easier, as it would be very hard to sand when the X is attached.

 

THE TOP

Now comes the time to put the top together using the 5 – 2” x 8” @ 52” boards.

 Drill 1 ½” pocket holes in the boards and attach them using 2 ½” pocket screws & Wood Glue.

 Before I attached the top to the base, I gave a 4” width perimeter of the bottom side of the top a good sand. Again, it was easier to do this now than when the top is attached to the frame. Use 2 ½” Wood Screws to attach the top by going from the underside through the 2” x 2” and 2” x 4” trims/supports.

 

Now that the table is constructed it comes down to finishing it. Use your Stainable wood filler to fill any pocket holes. I also used it to fill in the gaps between the boards for my top so there is nowhere to guck to collect.

Once the wood filler has dried, its time to give it a really good sand, first with 120 Grit and then 220 also for the top.

Vacuum and wipe the table down to remove any dust before you stain & seal with polyurethane. I always do 2 coats of the polyurethane, especially on table tops as it gives that extra protection.

 

Now, once the Polyurethane has fully dried, if you are going put the metal edging on like I did, you only have a few steps to go.

Spray paint the brackets and the screws Matte Black. Once fully dried, apply a second coat, let dry.

Align and drill pilot holes before screwing the brackets in place.

 

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Refinished Bedside Table

Hey all,

Here is another one of my fun curbside finds that I grabbed to refinish. This one though was a lot simpler then the cabinet we found in October. It was again in great condition and just needed a face lift to truly fit into our style.

I was thinking about chalk painting the whole thing and then just using bronze knobs to accent. However, I decided to go my usual route and stain the top instead. This of course added a bit more work but the end result is definitely worth it. This way the knobs and the top actually match.

Materials Needed

Paint

Stain

Polyurethane 

Sandpaper, 80, 120, 220

Knobs

Tools Needed

Sander

Screwdriver

The Step-By-Step

 

I started with giving the whole stand a really good cleaning to make sure nothing was on it that could effect the paint or stain finish.

Once that was done, it was time to work on the only time consuming part, sanding the coating off the top. This cabinet has a wood veneer, so essentially a very thin coating of real wood with a gloss finish over it. I used 80 grit sandpaper just to make sure that the gloss coating was off. The hardest part was sanding the routered edges. For this I had to sand by hand. Once the gloss was off, I went up to 120 grit sandpaper then 220 to finish.

I decided to paint the cabinet first, especially since I was using a caulk paint spray paint. (This way I didn’t accidentally get the  stained top with any paint) It took 2 coats of doing this, but turned out already looking like a whole new stand.

Once the paint was fully dry I started staining the top using the MiniWax Dark Walnut stain I have. After letting that sit overnight to dry I added my polyurethane top coating. For the polyurethane, I did 2 coats of it with using 220 grit sandpaper after each coat was dry.

Time for the finishing touch!!! New knobs. They are actually my go to for these projects, they look great and have a fantastic price point. They are a Richelieu Square knob in Oil Rubbed Bronze.




A-Frame Farmhouse Table for Under $120

Hey Everyone! For the longest time I have wanted to replace our small dining room table for the longest time. I found the idea of what I wanted to build off of Shanty-2-Chic & Ana-White, the 4×4 Truss Beam Farmhouse Table. However, the plan to build it kept getting put off by other things needed to be done. In the beginning of December, I put my foot down and decided that I HAD to have the table ready for Christmas Dinner. So, I quickly got to selling my old table on Kijiji which amazingly from what I sold it for essentially covered the cost of the new table.

Looking at the plans that Ana-White provided, I realized I would have to scale my own table down over a foot in order for it to work in my space. I spent a while deciding on the exact size, as I did not want it to be too small and look awkward. I ended up at the deciding factor of 72″ (6 feet) in length would not be overly large in my space, and it would still look great.

The hardest part in this whole project was finding the 4″ x 4″x 8’s that were untreated. In Canada, it seems that our Big Box Stores like Home Depot or Lowes only carry the pressure treated ones. Quite a while was spent calling around lumber yards in the area but I managed to find some. It cost me a bit more then buying the treated ones would have, however untreated is the best way to go for any indoor projects.

 

Make sure you read through the instructions and look over the plans fully before you start your project. Check out the “Before You Start” page for more on tool information, tips & tricks. Always stay safe and wear all safety protection. It is always best to make your cuts as you go and as they say, measure twice and cut once.

If you have any questions just ask away!

 

 TO DOWNLOAD THE FREE PLANS CLICK HERE

  

Shopping List

5 – 4″ x 4″ x 8′

2 – 2″ x 4″ x 8′

3 – 2″ x 10″ x 12′

2 1/2″ Course Pocket Screws

6 – 2 1/2″ Wood Screws

4 – 3″ Wood Screws

10 – 4″ Wood Screws

Stain – I chose Minwax Dark Walnut

Polyurethane – Minwax Semi Gloss Finish on this one

Wood Glue – I prefer Gorilla Glue

Cut List

Legs/Frame

2 – 4″ x 4″ @ 35″

4 – 4″ x 4″ @ 25 3/8″ – Each end is cut 10º off Square LONG POINT to SHORT POINT Making the ends Parallel

2 – 4″ x 4″ @ 28 1/4″ – Each end is cut 10º off Square, LONG POINT to LONG POINT making ends NOT parallel

2 – 4″ x 4″ @ 24 1/8″  – Each end is cut 50″ off Square, LONG POINT to SHORT POINT Making the ends Parallel

2 – 4″ x 4″ @ 50″

2 – 2″ x 4″ @ 50″

Table Top

4 – 2″ x 10″ @ 53 1/2″

2 – 2″ x 10″ x 37″ Approximately. Cut these boards after you have joined together the 4 – 2″ x 10″ @ 53 1/2″ to ensure you have the exact measurement

Tools Needed

 

Mitre Saw

 

Sander

 

Measuring Tape

 

Speed Square

 

Pencil

 

Clamps

 

Shop Towels – For Staining

 

 

Kreg Jig – HD Model

 

Drill

 

Safety Glasses

 

Ear Plugs

 

Work Gloves & Rubber Gloves to Stain

 

Bristle Paint Brush for the Polyurethane

 

The Step-by-Step

For more great step-by-step photos visit Shanty-2-Chic to see what Whitney added for the original table or to see the plans for the Full Sized Version of this table. 

Table Legs

First, we are going to work on the 2 legs with the 4″ x 4″ boards we have pre-cut. 

Lay them out to see how they are going to be assembled and to see where the pocket holes must go. Do each piece one by one to ensure you do the in the correct spots. 

To work with the Kreg Jig HD and these large boards I used 2 clamps to ensure that the Jig, nor the board moved as I was drilling out the pocket holes. See the photos below.

Here is what the pocket holes will look like. They are larger then the pocket holes you would get from the Regular Kreg Jig.

Now we are going to use the 2 1/2″ Pocket screws to attach these boards together.

NOTE: Don’t forget to use the Wood Glue in between all joints all though out the project.

You’re going to start with attaching the 2 boards @ 25 3/8″ to the 35″ boards, then add the board @28 1/4″. This will make the A Frame look.

Now that you have the 2 Legs assembled, you need to attach them together. Again, pull out the Kreg Jig & your drill and make the pocket holes into the 2 4″ x 4″ @ 50″ boards. 

Note: For the next bit, it is easiest to have the table upside down when screwing in the boards. 

Grab those 2 – 4″ x 4″ @ 22 1/2″ boards @ the 50º angles. We are going to screw these in with the 3″ & 4″ wood screws we bought. An amazing tip that I learned from Shanty-2-Chic for this part was to use Gorilla Tape as a way of essentially clamping the boards into place, and like they said it works like a charm.

With the Gorilla Tape holding those boards in place, use the 3″ Wood screws to screw in at the 45″ Angle into the top board, then use the 4″ Wood Screws to attach from the bottom 4″ x 4″ board. 

Keeping the table upside down, attach the 2″x 4″ aprons with 2  1/2″ Pocket screws.

 Here is what it will look like when the legs are done

The Top

 Gather the 4 – 2″ x 10″ x 53″ Boards and mark off where are you going to place the pocket holes. See the photo below for general idea.

My boards wanted to be a bit tricky, as they were not perfectly straight. Its hard to get the perfect when buying at such a long length. To get them to be flush I had to add a few more pocket holes. I had the boards clamped in to place and worked from one end to the other ensuring that the boards were flush as I went, adjusting the placement of clamps when needed.

Now its time to measure and cut your end pieces then attach them with the 2 1/2″ Pocket Screws. 

 

 

The Finishing Touches

Make sure you fill the Holes and gaps with Stain-able Wood Filler. For the best stain look, make sure you sand the table in steps. I started with 80Grit, moved to 120Grit then 320 Grit for the finish before I stained & applied the 2 coats of Polyurethane 

Due to the weight and size, I didn’t attach the top to the base until it was in place in my dining room.

Use the 4″ Wood Screws to attach from the table legs, using about 3 per end. Then use the 2 1/2″ wood Screws to attach through the 2″ x 4″aprons

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-Michelle