Tag: Wood - This DIY Home

DIY Mason Jar Desk Organizer

Hi Everyone! Two weeks ago I started off the Home Office series of builds with the Compact Chalkboard L Desk. Today we’re going to add a little bit of organization to this desk with the DIY Mason Jar Desk Organizer which will fit perfectly in the corner.

 

This organizer is designed to be able to sort out all of your necessities: Pens, Pencils, Markers, Highlighters, Paper Clips, Pins and Chalk of course, by using mason jars as the dividers. 

 

Now, keep in mind that at everyone is going to need to organize different things. 

Some may not use this in their office, but maybe in a studio space where they do any artwork or for their kids to organize their own art supplies.

 

The best thing to do is to determine what is going to be placed in the organizer.

 

This could change the size of the mason jars that are needed for the top shelf. For me, I’ll be placing Pins, Paperclips & Chalk in these jars making it so I only needed small jars. However, if you are going to need larger jars then you may need to replicate the bottom shelf for the top as well.  If so, this will make the shopping list change – You will no longer need the 1″ x 2″ x 6′ but will need more 1″ x 4″ boards. (You can get 2 – 1″ x 4″ x 6′ instead)

 

Once that is determined you can start building! – This will be a pretty quick and easy build.

 

 

 

Now remember, Have Fun & Happy Building!

 

Make sure you read through the instructions and look over the plans fully before you start your project. Check out the “Before You Start” page for more on tool information, tips & tricks. Always stay safe and wear all safety protection. It is always best to make your cuts as you go and as they say, measure twice and cut once. 

If you have any questions just ask away! 

Shopping List

1 – 1″ x 2″ x 6′

1 – 1″ x 4″ x 8′

1 – 2″ x 2″ x 8′

2″ Wood Screws 

1 ¼” Pocket Screws 

Paint

Stain

Cut List

2 – 1″ x 4″ @ 9″ – BOTTOM SIDE 1

2 – 1″ x 4″ @ 7 1/2″ – BOTTOM SIDE 2

3 – 1″ x 4″ @ 9″ – BOTTOM BASE – 1 piece ripped to 2″ wide

3 – 1″ x 4″ @ 8″ – TOP BASE – 1 piece ripped to 2″, 1 piece ripped to 2 1/2″

2 – 1″ x 2″ @ 8″ – TOP SIDE 1

2 – 1″ x 2″ @ 6 1/2″ – TOP SIDE 2

1 – 2″ x 2″ @ 8″ – PILLAR

Tools Needed

Mitre Saw

 

Mitre Saw

 

Drill

 

Sander

 

Kreg Jig

 

Brad Nailer & 1 1/4″ Brad Nails

 

Wood Glue

 

Wood Filler

 

 

Pencil

 

Measuring Tape

 

Shop Towels

 

Paint Brush

 

Safety Glasses

 

Ear Plugs

 

Gloves

Step-By-Step – Prep Work

Measure and Cut your boards and be sure to remember to rip the base boards down to size.  

 

 

As with most projects, I like to give the boards the initial 80-grit sand, as this makes it easier than trying to do it after the project is assembled.  

 

Using the Kreg Jig, Set to ¾” Wood Depth, drill pocket holes in the TOP BASE & BOTTOM BASE boards 

 

Step-by-Step – Assemble

Starting with the bottom shelf, using your Brad Nailer with 1 ¼” Brad nails and wood glue, attach the BOTTOM SIDE 1 boards to BOTTOM SIDE 2 boards. 

 

Next, do the same as above for the Top Shelf, using TOP SIDE 1 & TOP SIDE 2 Boards 

 

 

Assemble both the top base and bottom base using 1 ¼” pocket screws and wood glue 

 

 

Now that the bases are assembled, we can attach them to the side frames using wood glue and 1 ¼” brad nails. 

You are going to nail through the bottom of the base into the side frames. 

 

Measure and mark the center of the shelves and the PILLAR.  

Pre-drill before using 2″ Wood Screws and Wood Glue to attach the Pillar to the Shelves.  

You will screw in from the bottom of the BOTTOM SHELF and from the top of the TOP SHELF.  

  

Step-By-Step – Finish

 

Fill any holes with wood filler and let it dry.  

 

Using 220-grit sandpaper, give the project a complete sand 

Note: to sand the interior and the pillar, you will have to do it by hand.  

 

Now, you can stain or paint the project as you see fit.  

 

To get the Look I did

 
If you are looking to finish the project as I have, by giving it a distressed look, the first thing you have to do is stain the boards and let it dry.  

 

Once that is done, you can paint with the colour you chose – Most likely 2 coats will be needed.  

When the paint is dry, using the 220-grit sandpaper, give the edges and other surface areas a light sand. All you want to do is allow the dark stain to come through.

 

 

I hope you had fun will this build. Share your project and let me know how it went! 
-Michelle- 
  
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DIY Compact Chalkboard L-Desk

Hey Guys! Finally I have a room specifically for me to create into an office. It may be in the basement which makes my husband call it my Woman Cave, but it is at least a room. There will be no more papers sprawled out all over the dining table, or lugging the old MacBook around. I even have a space specially for my art so that I may actually want to start up again. (by the time I set up before I lost the motivation to actually do it). This being said, the next few weeks I will be going over the Furniture, Built-Ins and Accessories that make my fun and cozy office space. This week I will start with the main component, the desk.

I needed something that gave lots of space but would fit into the narrow room, and also allowed me easy access to my built-in bookshelf and could fit my Filing cabinet underneath. Needless to say a bit of planning went into this build to ensure I could get the most out of it. However, I did end up changing my original plans near the end. Originally I was planning on using 2x4s and stain for the top, but while looking around my garage I realized I had 2 pieces of MDF left over from building my daughter’s Loft Bed with Built in Bookshelf and Desk. These boards were actually the PERFECT size for the top of the desk, and allowed me to have less waste sitting in my garage.

Now, the only issue was determining what I wanted to do to finish it, since staining it was now out of the question. I have to give credit to my husband for this one, he suggested that I use chalkboard paint. Admittedly, I just stared at him when he suggested it, wondering, “why would I do that?” He must have noticed the look on my face since he continued saying and I quote “You’re always sketching and planning new ideas on paper that just gets thrown out. This way you can just erase and start over, less scrap.” I had to admit, it has turned out to be a great idea, even for just little reminder notes for myself. So check below for the How to on building a DIY Compact Chalkboard L-Desk.

Now remember, Have Fun & Happy Building!

 

Make sure you read through the instructions and look over the plans fully before you start your project. Check out the “Before You Start” page for more on tool information, tips & tricks. Always stay safe and wear all safety protection. It is always best to make your cuts as you go and as they say, measure twice and cut once. 

If you have any questions just ask away! 

 

Subscribe below for FREE PDF Plans on the “DIY Compact Chalkboard L-Desk” to be emailed to you

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Shopping List

6 – 2″ x 4″ x 8′ 

2 – ½” x 2′ x 4′ MDF Boards 

Chalkboard Paint  

White Paint 

2 ½” Wood Screws 

2 ½” Pocket Screws 

Cut List

6 – 2″ x 4″ @ 28″ – LEG 

4 – 2″ x 4″ @ 23″ – LRG LEG T&B 

2 – 2″ x 4″ @ 19 ½” – SM LEG T&B 

2 – 2″ x 2″ @ 33 1/2″ – Long to Short with 35 Deg Cut on each end – X1  

4 – 2″ x 2″ @ 16 3/4″ – Long to Long with 35 Deg on one end 25 on the other- X2 

1 – 2″ x 2″ @ 31 1/2″ Long to Short with Degree Cut on each End- X3 

2 – 2″ x 2″ @ 15 3/4″ Long to Long with 35 Deg. on each end- X4 

1 – MDF @ 2′ x 4′ – TOP LRG SIDE 

1 – MDF @ 20 ½” x 31″ – TOP SM SIDE 

2 – 2″ x 4″ @ 40″ – LONG SUPPORT 

2 – 2″ x 4″ @ 27 ½” – SHORT SUPPORT 

Tools Needed

 

Circular Saw 

 

Drill 

 

Kreg Jig 

 

Brad Nailer with 1″ Brad Nails 

 

Clamps 

 

Pencil  

 

Measuring tape 

 

Wood Glue 

 

 

Wood Filler 

 

Sander

 

Paint Brush 

 

Spong Roller & Tray 

 

Shop Towels 

 

Gloves 

 

Ear Plugs 

 

Safety Glasses 

Step-By-Step

 

Start by cutting all of the boards, except for the ones for the X. (If a measurement is slightly off, it will change they angle for the X cuts) 

 

Assemble 

 

First, the frames for the legs need to be assembled.  

 For the 2 Large Legs use 2 ½” Screws through the LRG LEG T&B into the LEG boards.  

Do the same for the Small Leg through the SM LEG T&B into the LEG boards.  

 

  

For each LEG, measure out the Long X boards X1 & X3, however do not attach these yet, just lay them in place.  

Do the same for the smaller X boards, X2 & X4 and again, do not attach them.  

 

 

 

Drill 2 Pocket holes in each end of the LONG SUPPORT & SHORT SUPPORT boards. Also Drill a single pocket hole in the 20 Deg cut end of the X2 & X4 boards.  

 

 

 

Before we do any more assembly, we are going to give all of the boards a rough sand using 80-grit sandpaper to remove any large imperfections in the boards.  

 

Next attach the X1/X3 boards to its respective frame using 2 ½” Wood Screws through the LRG LEG T&B/ SHORT LEG T&B 

Now attach the X2 & X4 Boards using a 2 ½” Pocket screw on the one end and a 2 ½” Wood Screw through the LRG LEG T&B/ SHORT LEG T&B as you did in the previous step.  

 

Fill & Sand

With the 3 Legs now assembled, use wood filler to fill any holes in the boards. Don’t forget to do the SUPPORT boards also.  

 

Attach the 2 LONG SUPPORTS to connect the Large Legs using 2 ½” Pocket screws.  

Do not attach the Small Side yet as it will make managing to move the desk quite hard and awkward.

 

 

Once the wood filler has dried, give the boards a good sand using 220-grit sandpaper to ensure it is all smooth and ready for the finishing.   

  

 

Finish & Final Assembly

 

Now, paint all the boards for the Desk Base. More than likely you will need at least 2 coats 

 

Bring all your pieces into the room it will assembled in, then use 2 ½” Pocket screws to attach the SHORT SUPPORT boards to both the Large side and the Small Leg.  

 Now, the way I have done this is to make it able to be taken fully apart at a later date, especially when we move.  

 

Place the Desk Top boards on top of the frame, placing the Large Side first and ensure that there is a ½” overlap around.  

Note: The large side will overlap the Small side frame 

With the Top boards in place, use a brad nailer with 1 inch nails to attach along the frame.  

 

 

All that’s left painting the top with the chalk paint. Use the Foam roller to apply the first coat and allow it to dry for an hour before applying the second coat.  

The final step to finishing the chalk board top is priming it, by covering it lightly in chalk 24 hours after its cured then clean up with soap and water.  

 
 
I hope you had fun will this build. Share your project and let me know how it went! 
-Michelle- 
  
Don’t Forget to Subscribe to get instant updates to new posts & projects.  
 
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Rustic OTJ Bathroom Hanging Shelf

Hi Guys,

I don’t know about you, but this last week has been extremely busy here with projects. We’ve been doing a lot of painting around the house and our main floor bathroom was the room that just got done. The bathroom desperately needed a fresh and warm look. However, the one little task of turned into many more projects. Not only did we repaint the walls, we also refinished the light fixtures over the vanity and the accessories too.

On top of all that, I wanted to add a little more storage space over the toilet. The wall space over the toilet seemed bare and needed a little something to catch your eye. Which brings us to this weeks build, the Rustic OTJ Bathroom Hanging Shelf. The great thing about this shelf is it’s open shelf concept which doesn’t make it seem bulky and allows you to add decorative pieces on it.

 

Here is how the bathroom turned out!

Repainted Bathroom

 

The spray paint used for the light fixtures and accessories in our bathroom is Rustoleum’s Metallic Oil Rubbed Bronze. 

Here is how it turned out. (Don’t mind the smudge, I took this photo before washing the sawdust off my hands). These fixtures were originally chrome, but did not suite the space. 

Repainted Light Fixtures with Rustoleum Metallic Oil Rubbed Bronze

 

Continue on to read on how to build the Rustic OTJ Bathroom Hanging Shelf

Have Fun & Happy Building!

 

Make sure you read through the instructions and look over the plans fully before you start your project. Check out the “Before You Start” page for more on tool information, tips & tricks. Always stay safe and wear all safety protection. It is always best to make your cuts as you go and as they say, measure twice and cut once. 

If you have any questions just ask away! 

 

Subscribe Below For FREE PDF Plans of this project

Name *

Email *

Shopping List

1 – 2″ x 4″ x 8′ 

1 – 2″ x 6″ x 8′ 

2 ½” Wood Screws 

Hook & Wall Plugs 

Rope 

Stain 

Polyurethane 

Cut List

2 – 2″ x 4″ @ 40″ – SIDES 

3 – 2″ x 6″ @ 21″ – SHELVES 

Tools Needed

Mitre Saw

 

Mitre Saw 

 

Drill & 3/8″ Drill Bit 

 

Sander 

 

Clamps 

 

Wood Glue 

 

Wood Filler (stainable)

 

Pencil

 

 

Measuring Tape

 

Shop Towels 

 

Paint Brush 

 

Safety Glasses 

 

Ear Plugs 

 

Gloves 

Step-By-Step

Prep Work 

 

Cut your boards down to size and give them a good pre-sand with 80 grit sandpaper to remove any imperfections.  

 

Drill 3/8″ holes into the top of the 2 SIDES using the following measurements:  

2″ down from the top and 1 ¾” from the side (this will center the hole) 

 

 

Assemble  

 

Use Wood glue and 2 ½” Wood Screws to attach the SHELVES to one of the SIDES. 

The Bottom SHELF will be flush with the bottom of the SIDE and the remainder will be spread out with 12″ in between each board.  

 

 

Next, attach the second SIDE board. Use the same measurements as you did to attach the SHELVES to the first SIDE board. 

 

 

 The Finish 

 

Now it is time to give the shelf a finish sand using 220 grit sandpaper to ensure boards are all smooth.  

 

Once the boards have been fully sanded, apply your stain and polyurethane as per instructions.  

 

When the Stain and the Clear Coat have dried, attach the rope to the shelf. 

Place the rope through the holes on both SIDE boards and tie a knot in each end to keep it in place.  

 

 

Hang the Shelf 

 

Attach the Hook to the wall using proper Wall Plugs to ensure that they will hold the weight of the shelf.  

Hang the shelf by the rope over the hook. 

I hope you had fun will this build. Share your project and let me know how it went! 

-Michelle- 

  

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Rustic Wine Caddy for Under $15

Hi Guys, who doesn’t love wine or great gift ideas? This Rustic Wine Caddy is a perfect gift idea for that wine lover you know, even if that wine lover happens to be yourself! To make it even better you can make this build for Under $15, even less if you don’t want to add any brackets to it.

The Wine Caddy’s crate appearance gives it that perfect rustic appeal. However, there are numerous ways you can finish this build off from stains and paints to brackets. I’ve actually built two of these myself in the last bit, each with a different look. So take a look below to check them out.

Now Have Fun & Happy Building!

Make sure you read through the instructions and look over the plans fully before you start your project. Check out the “Before You Start” page for more on tool information, tips & tricks. Always stay safe and wear all safety protection. It is always best to make your cuts as you go and as they say, measure twice and cut once.

If you have any questions just ask away!

Subscribe Below For FREE PDF Plans of this project

Name *

Email *

 

Shopping List

1 – 1″ x 4″ @ 6′ 

2 – 1/2″ x 2″ @ 3′ Craft Board 

8 – 1 1/2″ Corner Brackets 

32 – Screws for the brackets 

1/4″ Twine 

Stain

Polyurethane

Wood Glue

1 1/4″ Brad Nails

Cut List

1 – 1″ x 4 @ 14″ – BASE 

2 – 1″ x 4″ @ 13″ – INSIDE DIVIDER 

2 – 1″ x 4″ @ 4″ – ENDS 

4 – 1/2″ x 2″ @ 14″ – SIDES 

Tools Needed

 

Drill 

 

Circular Saw

 

Sander 

 

3/8″ Drill Bit 

 

Brad Nailer 

 

Clamps 

 

Screwdriver 

 

Shop Towels 

 

Paint Brush 

 

Gloves 

 

Safety Glasses 

 

Ear Plugs 

Step-By-Step

Prep Wok

After cutting the boards to size, Pre-sand them to make it easier after The Wine Caddy is Built

Drill the holes for the handle in the top of each INSIDE DIVIDER. 

 

Assembly

First attach the 2 END boards to the BASE using wood glue and 1 1/4″Brad Nails.

Nail through the bottom of the BASE into the SIDES 

Attach the INSIDE DIVIDER boards to the BASE using wood glue and 1 1/4″ brad nails. 

Make sure the spacing in all sections is equal .

 

Attach the SIDE pieces using wood glue and brad nails.  

The top board is flush with the top of the END boards and the board is spaces equally. (my daughter loves to help as you can see)

Brad nailing the sides

 

Finish

With initially giving each board a good sand to remove the imperfections, you now only have to do the finish sand to make it smooth and ready to stain

 

Finish as desired with your choice of stain and polyurethane or paint.

Lastly, attach the rope to make your handle.

 

If you are going to attach brackets:

Spray paint the corner brackets and its screws and once dry, attach.

TIP 1: An easy way to paint the screws is to slightly screw them into a scrap board. This allows you to spray all angles.

TIP 2: Make sure you pre-drill your pilot holes first and carefully screw in by hand as too much pressure can cause the craft boards to crack.  

 

 

Rustic Wine Caddy

I hope you had fun building this Rustic Wine Caddy.

Share your project and let me know how it went! 
-Michelle- 

 

  

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Check me out on Facebook & Pinterest too!  

 

Take a look at more great Gift Ideas here.




X Brace Console Table

Hey guys, this build was something that was desperately needed in my house. I have 2 massive windows at the front of the house that are only a foot and a half off the floor. The one window is directly in the straight path of the hallway that runs down the length of my house. Now, take 2 big dogs + hardwood Floors and you get 2 dogs that don’t stop when they decide they want to see what is outside. Needless to say I have a huge head size hole in the screen. To avoid this the windows have to stay closed at all times, which I don’t want to do. Which brings me to this build… I decided to build an X Console Table to fit in front of these windows that will keep my boys from getting to it, and allowing me to open the windows again without the fear of them going through.

 

Make sure you read through the instructions and look over the plans fully before you start your project. Check out the “Before You Start” page for more on tool information, tips & tricks. Always stay safe and wear all safety protection. It is always best to make your cuts as you go and as they say, measure twice and cut once. 

If you have any questions just ask away! 

 

Subscribe for FREE PDF PLANS to be emailed to you!

Name *

Email *

Shopping List

3 – 2″ x 6″ x 8′

7- 2″ x 4″ x 8′

2 1/2″ Pocket Screws

Stain

Paint

Wood Glue

Stainable Wood Filler

Cut List

Cut List

3 – 2” x 6” @ 70” – TOP

4 – 2” x 4” @ 32” – LEGS

4 – 2” x 4” @ 12” – SIDES

3 – 2” x 4” @ 61 ½” -SIDE/BOTTOM SUPPORT

1 – 2” x 4” @ 27 ½” – MIDDLE BRACE

2 – 2” x 4” @ 13 ½” – Too Short end.  One End cut on 90 Degree, other cut on 45 Degree angle. BRACE 1

 

These next few cuts are more complex. See diagram below

2 – 2” x 4” @ 38 7/8” – First cut a 45 Degree Cut @ 42 ¾” to its longest point. Then cut another 45” @ 38 7/8” to its shortest point BRACE 2

2 – 2” x 4” @18 7/16” – First Cut a 45 Degree Cut @ 20 ½” to its longest point. Then Cut another 45 @ 18 7/16” to its shortest point. BRACE 3

Tools Needed

Mitre Saw

 

Mitre Saw

 

Drill

 

Kreg Jig

 

Sander

 

Pencil

 

Tape Measure

 

 

Paint Brush

 

Shop Towels

 

Gloves

 

Safety Glasses

 

Ear Protection

Step-by-Step

 

The Top

Drill 1 ½” Pocket holes into the long ends of the 2” x 6” boards

Using wood glue and 2 ½” Pocket screws attach the 3 boards together.

 

 

 

The Frame

First, we are going to assemble the two sides.

To do this we need to dill pocket holes in both ends of the SIDES (2” x 4” @ 12”)

Using 2 ½” Pocket Screws and wood glue, attach them to the Legs.

The Top SIDE board will be set back ¾” from the sides of the Leg.

Tip: Use a scrap 1” board as a spacer

The bottom SIDE board will be 3” From the bottom of the leg

 

 

 

When both legs are done, we will assemble the frame using the 3 2’ x 4” @ 61 ½” Boards (SIDE/BOTTOM SUPPORT)

Drill 1 ½” Pocket holes in each end of all 3 boards. In the 2 SIDE SUPPORT boards you will also drill pocket holes as shown to later attach to the top.

Use 2 ½” Pocket screws and wood glue to attach to the legs. The BOTTOM SUPPORT will be 5 ¾” From the side

 

 

 

Attach the top using 2 ½” Pocket screws into the holes we had previously drilled into the SIDE SUPPORTS. The Frame will be set in ¾” From the TOP

 

 

The X Brace

Drill Pocket holes in both ends of the MIDDLE BRACE, as well on the ends of BRACE 2

NOTE: on the 1 end of BRACE 2, the direction of each pocket hole is different.

Use wood glue and 2 ½” Pocket screws to attach these boards, making the back side of the board 6 ¾” from the inside of the frame and 1” off the edge of the BOTTOM SUPORT

 

Drill 1 ½” Pocket holes in the ends of BRACE 1 and BRACE 3. Note the direction of the pocket holes in the Diagram below.

Use 2 ½” Pocket screws and wood glue to attach.

 

 

The Finish

Fill all pocket holes with wood filler as well as any gaps/imperfections. I always fill in the joints of the top as well to ensure nothing will get caught in there.

Give everything a good sand and Paint/Stain as desired.

 

 

 

I hope you had fun will this build. Share your project and let me know how it went! 
-Michelle- 
  
Don’t Forget to Subscribe to get instant updates to new posts & projects.  
 
Check me out on Facebook & Pinterest too!  

 




DIY Chunky Blanket Ladder for Under $15

Hi Everyone, I apologize for my absence over the last while, life just got a bit crazy.  However, the good news is I am back and have a bunch of awesome builds that I have been working on for you to check out! So, expect a new project post every other Wednesday! To get started here is a quick and easy yet attractive piece for your home that will make it a bit more cozy. A Rustic Chunky Blanket Ladder for under $15. 

I built this just before Christmas since I was tired of having the excessive amount of blankets we have lying around, and being messed up daily by one of the dogs. It turned out great and at Christmas dinner my sister-in-law decided she wanted me to build her one too!

So have fun & Happy Building!

 

 **FREE PRINTABLE PDF PLANS COMING SOON!**

 

Make sure you read through the instructions and look over the plans fully before you start your project. Check out the “Before You Start” page for more on tool information, tips & tricks. Always stay safe and wear all safety protection. It is always best to make your cuts as you go and as they say, measure twice and cut once.

If you have any questions just ask away!

Shopping List

2 – 2″ x 4″ x 8′

1 – 2″ x 6″ x 8′

 

Cut List

2 – 2″ x 4″ @ 66″ – SIDES 

4 – 2″ x 6″ @ 17″ – WRUNG 

Tools Needed

 

Tape Measure 

 

Pencil 

 

Circular Saw 

 

Sander

 

Kreg Jig 

 

 

 

Drill 

 

Shop Towels

 

Gloves 

 

Safety Glasses 

 

Ear Plugs 

Step-by-Step

Cut the boards to size and give them a good sand. Sanding now will make it easier to finish once the Blanket Ladder has been built.

 

After you have sanded, drill 2 pocket holes on each end of the 2″ x 6″ @ 17″ boards..

 

Attach the 2″ x 6″ pieces, using 2 1/2″ pocket screws, to one of the 2″ x 4″ boards. Use the following measurements:

  1. The WRUNGS are angled so that the opposite corners are flush with opposite edges of the SIDES. This will make the WRUNGS at a 45 angle to the SIDES
  2. The top WRUNG is 3″ away from the top of the SIDES 
  3. Each WRUNG is12″ apart from eachother

 

Attach the other SIDE in the same way. 

 

Finish as desired using wood filler, stain & Polyurethane 

 

 

I hope you had fun will this build. Share your project and let me know how it went!
-Michelle-

 

Don’t Forget to Subscribe to get instant updates to new posts & projects. 
Check me out on Facebook & Pinterest too! 



Industrial Coffee Table

Hey Guys, One of my friends has been updating their living room with new furniture and asked if I would put together some pieces for her. I started with their coffee table. It needed to suit their style which is a more Rustic Industrial look. It also needed to be very durable since she had just gotten a puppy who is going to get big pretty quickly. We went through many options and when I showed her this design, she absolutely loved it. This Industrial Coffee table has legs that are painted to look like Metal, but the whole thing is made out of wood!  This table is a very simple and easy design so it’s a great option for a beginner DIY. On top of that the price point is fantastic.

Make sure you read through the instructions and look over the plans fully before you start your project. Check out the “Before You Start” page for more on tool information, tips & tricks. Always stay safe and wear all safety protection. It is always best to make your cuts as you go and as they say, measure twice and cut once.

If you have any questions just ask away!

 

CLICK HERE – FREE PDF PRINTABLE PLANS!

Shopping List

5 – 2″ x 6″ x 8′

4 – 2″ x 2″ x 8′

2 1/2″ Pocket Screws

2″  Wood Screws

Stain

Primer

Spray Paint

Stainable Wood Filler

Cut List

4 – 2″ x 2″ @ 45″ – LONG SIDE

4 -2″ x 2″ @ 24 1/2″ – SHORT SIDE

10 – 2″ x 6″ @ 48″ – TOP & BOTTOM SHELF

4 – 2″ x 2″ @ 16.5″ – LEGS

Tools Needed

 

Circular Saw

 

Drill

 

Kreg Jig

 

Clamps

 

Measuring Tape

 

Paint Brush

 

 

Pencil

 

Shop Towels

 

Safety Glasses

 

Ear Protection

 

Dust Mask

 

Gloves

The Step-by-Step

The Top & Bottom Shelf Assembly

Build each by Drilling 1 1/2″ Pocket Holes along the long end of the boards.

Use 2 1/2″ Pocket screws & Wood glue to attach the boards together. 

For the bottom shelf, cut out a 1 1/2″ x 1 1/2″ Square out of each corner. This will be where it its into the Frame.

 

The Frame

To assemble the frame you first need to drill 1 1/2″ Pocket hole in each end of the 2″ x 2″ @ 44″ – LONG SIDE & 2″ x 2″ @24 1/2″ SHORT SIDE boards.

Attach the Short Side pieces  to the leg Pieces using 2 1/2″ Pocket Screws & Wood Glue. 

Now attach the 2 Long Side bottom pieces using 2 1/2″ Pocket Screws & Wood Glue

Place the bottom shelf into place, but do not fasten. We will fasten the bottom shelf later on. 

Now that the bottom shelf is in place, we can attach the 2 Top Long Side Pieces using 2 1/2″ Pocket Screws & Wood Glue.

 

Now, Before we can attach the bottom Shelf, and the top into place, we need to finish the frame. 

First, wood fill and sand any holes that are visible, then give the frame a good sand. 

Once the Frame is ready, its time to prime & paint in the colour you have chosen. I used the Rustoleum Metallic Dark Steel. It took one coat of the primer and 2 coats of paint.

Once the paint is dry you can attach the bottom shelf  &  the Top to the frame using 2 1/2″ Wood screws. Attach through the Frame.

Tip: attach the bottom shelf first by flipping the table on its side. Attach the top at the end so that it does not get damaged being against the floor.

 

The Final Finish

Just as you did for the frame, use wood filler on the table top and bottom shelf.

Once it has dried, give it a really good sand. 

Mask off the Painted frame and stain the top and bottom shelf. 

Once the stain has dried apply 2 coats of Polyurethane.

 

 

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Rustic Chunky Leg Coffee Table

Hey Guys, for all of you who have loved the look of the Rustic X Coffee table, but did not have the room for the length of it, here is a great alternative, the Rustic Chunky Leg Coffee Table. I have taken the table and turned it a 3 Foot square table. Now, with it being square, the 2” x 4” legs would not look right. Instead, 4” x 4” boards were used as the legs to keep the table looking balanced.

 

Make sure you read through the instructions and look over the plans fully before you start your project. Check out the “Before You Start” page for more on tool information, tips & tricks. Always stay safe and wear all safety protection. It is always best to make your cuts as you go and as they say, measure twice and cut once.

If you have any questions just ask away!

CLICK HERE – FREE PRINTABLE PDF PLANS 

Shopping List

4 – 2” x 4” x 8’
 
2 – 2” x 2” x 8’
 
1 – 1” x 10” x 8’
 

3 – 2” x 8” x 8’

L Brackets

Screws

2 ½” pocket Screws

1 ¼” Pocket Screws

2 “ Wood Screws

Paint

Stain

Polyurethane

Stainable Wood Filler

Cut List

8- 2” x 4” @ 27 ¾” – SUPPORTS
 
4 – 4” x 4” @ 16 ½” – LEGS
 
5 – 2” x 8” @ 36 ¼” – TOP
 
3 – 1 “ x 10”  @ 27 ¾” SHELF
 
2 – 2” x 2” @ 26 11/16″ From LONG END to SHORT END – 65 Degree cuts are Parallel **SEE TIP to Cut**
 
4 – 2” x 2” @ 11 3/8″ From SHORT END of 65 Degree angle to Long End of 40 Degree Angle **SEE TIP to cut**

Tools Needed

 
 
Mitre Saw

 

Kreg Jig

 

Drill

 

Sander

 

Clamps

 

Pencil

 

Tape Measure

 

Wood Glue

 

Shop Towels

 

Paint Brush

 

Ear Protection

 

Safety Glasses

 

Dust Mask

The Step-by-Step

The Base

First, pocket holes are needed on both ends of each 2 “ x 4” @ 27 ¾” Support Board

Use 2 ½” Pocket Screws & Wood Glue to attach these boards to the Legs. The top supports will be flush with the top of the Legs, the bottom support will be 2 ¼” from the bottom of the leg.

 

Next, we need to assemble the bottom shelf.

Drill ¾” Pocket holes on all sides of the boards. These will be used to attach the shelf together as well as to attach the shelf to the supports.

Use 1 ¼” Pocket screws & Wood Glue to assemble the boards together & attach to the supports.

 

Now its time to attach the X’s. Use 2 “ Wood screws and wood Glue to attach through the supports and use 2 ½” Pocket screws to attach the smaller pieces to the long Piece. Start with the Long piece, and then add the 2 smaller pieces.

TIP: To Cut these pieces, its best to first lay out the Full piece and mark off your lines. Cut & Install that piece first. For the smaller pieces, do the same thing. Mark and cut one full piece then place in behind the other and mark off the other cuts your are going to need. These will be around 40 Degrees

 

The Top

 Drill 1 ½” pocket holes in the 5 boards for the top, then use 2 ½” Pocket screws & Wood Glue to attach the boards together.

Assemble & Finish

Spray paint the 4 corner brackets and the co-ordinating Screws

While the brackets are drying, it’s time to finish the table. Use the stainable wood filler to fill in any pocket holes, the gaps in the top and any other imperfections.

 Once the wood filler has dried, give everything a good sand.

 Next, paint, stain and polyurethane depending on how you decided the table will look.

Note: remember if you will be painting the base of the table, do not forget to prime first.

 

Use 2 “ Wood Screws through the top support to attach the top.

 Finally attach the 4 corner brackets to the table top edge with the screws you also painted.

 

 

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Side Table with a Magazine Rack & Shelf

Hey all, here is the other gift that was made for father’s day. A couch side table for my husband that has a magazine rack and shelf. The best part is how compact it is for the limited space and its custom height to fit right over the arm of the couch. It doesn’t take much to build this and can be made for under $25.00.

 

Make sure you read through the instructions and look over the plans fully before you start your project. Check out the “Before You Start” page for more on tool information, tips & tricks. Always stay safe and wear all safety protection. It is always best to make your cuts as you go and as they say, measure twice and cut once.

If you have any questions just ask away!

CLICK HERE – FREE PRINTABLE PDF PLANS 

Shopping List

1 – 1” x 6” x 8’

1 – 1” x 10” x 4’

Wood Glue

1 – 1” x 8” x 4’

1 ¼” Wood Screws

Stain-able Wood-Filler

Stain

Polyurethane

Cut List

1 – 1” x 12” @ 16” Top

1 – 1” x 8” @ 16” Bottom

2 – 1” x 6” @ 23” Sides

3 – 1” x 6” @14 ½” Shelf & Mag Front

1 – 1” x 8” @ 16” Back Of Magazine

Tools Needed

 

Circular Saw

 

Sander

 

Drill

 

Measuring Tape

 

Pencil

 

Shop Towels

 

Gloves

 

Safety Glasses

 

Ear Protection

Step-By-Step

 

First thing you will do is pre-sand the boards, otherwise you will have a hard time once the stand is built.

 

Take the 2 boards for the sides and attach both the top and bottom boards using 1 ¼” wood screws and wood glue

Build the little shelf using 2 of the 1” x 6” @ 14 ½” boards. First attach the back board then attach the bottom of the shelf. Again use 1 ¼” wood screws to attach

The last 2 boards are for the magazine rack. The large 1” x 8” board will be the back piece (going against the couch) The smaller is for the front. Use the 1 ¼” wood screws to attach

All that is left is to finish. Fill with stain-able wood filler, Give another sand, stain and apply your polyurethane.

 

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Wallmount Bottle Opener for under $20

Hey All, With Father’s Day this past weekend, it was a pretty last minute gift idea that we decided on. We only had a week to have it completed (which we successfully did, longest was waiting for delivery of the bottle opener), we made two things. The first being in this post, the other, a custom end table/magazine rack will be posted later. This project a Wallmount Bottle Opener, is super quick and easy to build and can be done with scrap that you have lying around. If you do not have any scrap, with buying the bottle openers, materials are under $15. I haven’t done any sayings on it yet, as I’m letting my husband choose which one he wants. When that gets completed, I will put an updated photo up of it.

Make sure you read through the instructions and look over the plans fully before you start your project. Check out the “Before You Start” page for more on tool information, tips & tricks. Always stay safe and wear all safety protection. It is always best to make your cuts as you go and as they say, measure twice and cut once.
If you have any questions just ask away!

Shopping List

1 – 1” x 8” x 4’

1 – 1” x 4” x 4’

Metal Wall Mount Bottle Opener – Amazon

1 ¼” wood Screws

Stain

Wood Glue

Stainable Wood Filler

Cut List

1 – 1” x 8” @ 17” – Back

1 – 1” x 8” @ 4 ¼” – Bottom

2 – 1” x 4” @ 4 ¼” – Sides

1 – 1” x 4” @ 8 ½” – Front

Tools Needed

 

Circular Saw

 

Drill

 

Sander

 

Measuring Tape

 

Pencil

 

 

Gloves

 

Shop Towels

 

Ear Protection

 

Safety Glasses

The Step-by-Step

Use 1 ¼” Wood Screws & Glue to attach the bottom to the back piece. (recess the screws slightly to allow space for wood filler)

Using the 1 ¼” Wood Screws & Glue to Attach the sides to the Back/Bottom

Again, use the 1 ¼” Wood Screws and Glue to attach the front piece.

Wood fill and allow it to dry before giving a good sand. Then apply your stain.

Once the stain has dried, attach the Bottle Opener!

 

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